DragonMaster

Bonjour, je ne sais pas programmer par exemple (J'ai fait un peu de BASIC sur mon TRS-80, mais je viens de commencer le PHP, ça ressemble à du C au moins...) ;) Mais, en ce qui concerne l'aftertouch, d'après ce que je peux lire ici: http://ccrma.stanford.edu/~craig/articles/linuxmidi/misc/essenmidi.html ça serait ceci qu'il faudrait envoyer : Je ne sais pas comment le C fonctionne, mais est-ce qu'il faut une commande pour que le programme retourne faire le test "if (MIOS_AIN_Pin7bitGet(pin_value)>32)" une fois que "while" a terminé pour pouvoir se rendre à "else"? Est-ce qu'un moniteur MIDI comme MIDI-OX donne des résultats étranges?

He has a spare OPL3 ISA sound card AFAIK, and SBTimbre ( http://www.midiox.com/jsoft.htm ) would be great to test some chips. I could test one with the sound cards I already have, but it won't be until June though (I don't have any time until then). And there are SOIC ZIF sockets ;)

! :o >:( Not even one?

Got'em !

Les calculs semblent correct, par contre, il y a la résistance minimale qui devrait peut-être être changée, le senseur ne risque de jamais se rendre à 1kOhm (Pour 100N/cm² -> ~10kg de pression). Il serait mieux d'optimiser la résistance drop-down pour ce que le senseur risque de sortir réellement (Il faut prendre en compte qu'un ADC de 8-bit va voir le voltage.) Il y aurait moyen d'essayer avec un potentiomètre comme résistance drop-down pour ajuster le voltage minimal et maximal. Le convertisseur BCD à décimal pourrait être intéressant(question de coût), en espérant qu'il n'y ait pas de pics de voltage lors des changements de voltage. (En utilisant des condensateurs, le problème pourrait être atténué.) Sinon, le moyen le plus stable serait d'utiliser deux CORE ayant chacun deux AIN avec une résistance par FSR. Il y a certainement plusieurs variantes possibles, mais tout ce qu'on sait, c'est qu'il y a un maximum de 8 ADC. Je viens de regarder à propos de ce sujet, la fonction MIDI aftertouch pourrait être utilisée. (Elle permet de voir la pression continuellement, et individuellement pour chaque notes :D )

C'est le problème avec le DIN, des personnes ont essayé de connecter un clavier de contrôleur MIDI en matrice sur la midiBOX et ça ne fonctionnait pas très bien.

Le SEQv3 fonctionne avec vélocité?

Bonjour, le module AIN est déjà en quelque sorte une matrice, chaque module utilise 4 des 8 "ADC" intégrés au PICmicro et le logiciel balaie entre les 8 entrées des multiplexeurs pour faire 32 entrées par module. Il faudrait deux modules. Sinon, il y aurait possibilité de connecter les FSR en matrice avec un convertisseur binaire à décimal ( http://pdf1.alldatasheet.com/datasheet-pdf/view/26863/TI/CD4028.html ) connecté directement au PIC qui donnerait du voltage à la ligne à balayer, et les sorties seraient connectées aux huit entrées analogues du PIC. Seul hic, les données seraient peut-être faussées par cette solution étant donné qu'on travaille avec de l'analogue et qu'il y a des pics dans le voltage lorsque un contact est fermé et ouvert (par le CD4028 en occurrence) Donc, donner un voltage continu aux FSR et utiliser des multiplexeurs (modules AIN) serait la meilleure solution (mais plus chère aussi). Si ça peut être utile d'ailleurs, les circuits intégrés "4051" devraient se trouver dans n'importe quel magasin d'électronique et les installer sur un veroboard ne devrait pas être très compliqué. Avec le FSR branché entre l'ADC et le 5V, puis avec une résistance "drop-down" entre l'ADC et la masse, je crois que ça fonctionne. Par contre, il faudrait faire un petit calcul pour savoir quelle résistance mettre pour avoir ~0v à 5v à la sortie, mais ça va dépendre du module et des senseurs. Aussi, s'il n'y a aucune chance d'appuyer sur les deux FSR ayant une note commune en même temps, les deux FSR pourraient probablement êtres connectés en parallèle.

En fait, c'est simplement un potentiomètre. On connecte 0v d'un côté, 5v de l'autre, et un voltage de 0 à 5v va sortir au milieu, c'est parfaitement adaptable au AINX4. En plus, contrairement à la solution numérique "on/off" qui, je crois, pouvait faire des erreurs à cause du timing de la matrice, il n'y aura pas de problème de ce côté la. Probablement, et à cette quantité, il serait intéressant de voir avec le manufacturier. Sinon, je ne connais pas trop les magasins qui se trouvent en Europe.

http://sound.westhost.com/counterfeit.htm

SOIC is quite easy to solder, unless you have a cheap 20W iron or a large iron tip. A WES51 soldering station with an ETP tip will do the job. I've done mods on a motherboard two weeks ago. The 0603 SMD resistors I soldered in didn't give me any trouble (using a cheap electronics tool set and wirewrap 30AWG wire). The hardest part was to get them out of the tape and reel packaging without losing them. ;D If bridging between pins becomes a problem while soldering, a flux pen will help.

I'm not as I've done zero programming so far, but I think that the "wiper" contact disconnects itself completely from the resistive trace when the SoftPot is released, so it looks like it would be quite easy to build a software or hardware solution. It simply has to hold the value when there's no more contact.

Well FedEx flat rate it's not much more expensive than here... ($45) Have you looked at DigiKey?

With USPS Priority International? ??? It cost me only $23 to get something shipped to Canada last week. (In a quite large but flat box) I know Mouser sometimes automatically changes the shipping option because the dimensions are too large or it's too heavy. Are you sure they can't change to a cheaper shipping option? (There are about 10 different ways to ship to Canada, I don't know to Israel though)

Hi, it's a VFD display. Noritake makes some that will work in the MIDIbox. Any displays that are "HD44780-compatible" should work with the MIDIbox. http://www.noritake-elec.com/uversion.htm Digikey sells them for an high price, but you can sometimes find cheap units on eBay. (i.e. eBay # 230216710111 )

If you can find easily polarized film somewhere, you can make any LCDs look like the Crystalfontz. You'll need to peel off the original film and put some new one in the good orientation. There are a few guides for this if I remember correctly.

That's what he asked! ;D cimo's right, no need to look at all the datasheets, the kit is quite simple to build. You're not working on breadboard right now. ;) However, note that my earlier post can be useful if you need to replace a transistor with a non-exact replacement from your local store since your dog chewed a few parts or if you need to replace another component somewhere else it will help. psylens, note that C4 is polarized as well, an electrolytic capacitor placed backwards explodes after a while (I almost had the experience once)

Capacitors : Depends, some are polarized, some not. Those that look like a can with two pins (electrolytic capacitors) are polarized usually, the different-colored strip on the label indicates the negative pin. Sometimes, other caps are polarized, there should be a strip or sign on the capacitor indicating that one pin is the negative or positive. It's not always clear. Ceramic disc capacitors aren't polarized. Transistors : Pin location is very important here and sometimes similar and even models have different pinouts (!) between manufacturers(this is rare and shouldn't be the case here). Sometimes, the B C E signs are on the transistor's case, sometimes not. You need to look at the datasheet of the capacitors. That's an easy Google search : "model number" datasheet Or you can try http://www.datasheetarchive.com/ directly with the model number. Note that the model number you see on the transistor is often a shortened version of the actual name, they usually don't put the two letters on the beginning of the model name: 2N (You often see only four numbers on these transistor, apart from the BCE markings if they're present.) or 2S (For transistor that have a model number that looks like "A123" or A 123 ) You have the full model number on transistors that start with BC, for example. This is to ID the most common types. Here's a transistor reading guide : http://www.elexp.com/t_tranmk.htm Anyways, when you need a datasheet for transistors, you need to type the whole model number to get some info. Once you have the datasheet, you will find a drawing of the actual component and the pins will be identified as B, C and E. Place them in the appropriate hole. If Smash provided the parts with the PCBs, they should fit like on the PCB's silk screening.(If there are no PCB errors ::) ) As for crystals, it's not important, they work both ways, like resistors. The 12 holes for the MIDI connector are there to either accept different connector models or are simply used as soldered attach points for the connector(to handle more stress). Really, MIDI uses two pins on the DIN connector. There you'd need a digital multimeter for most of the components. Testing resistors is easy with the ohms test, the multimeter should display the same value as the resistor is supposed to have. A jumper will use the same procedure, except you should see around 0 ohms. IC sockets should be OK unless you can't solder it or fit an IC in. You should replace the damaged capacitors, maybe some parts could be shorted in them now, which is bad.

Look at his (arrogant) FAQ, he won't use FLAC...

Here it's $20... Otherwise, 13% tax !

Will it turn into another forum I'll quit due to members with anger management problems? Looks like you can't find any forums without a few of them posting in every threads in these days... Either insults, rude posts or unneeded comments everywhere. Most people have dynamic IPs, it's totally useless unless you block a whole ISP, which isn't really what you want. Gene can file a report telling he thinks he bought stolen goods. Things will be investigated. Maybe he doesn't want to deal with all the trouble reporting the seller stole IP -> it looks like no one here ever bothered trying to deal with it, BL's still selling MBs. If he tells eBay, they'll say to call the police to investigate the matter. Getting anything done by the nameities is always complicated... It took me two months to get a license to cut off a dead tree that was falling apart! (Finally got it after it damaged the neighbors' garage and destroyed the fence) Finally... BTW, there might be a difference between IP tefth and copyright, not sure which one applies here.

Get help from the seller, the problem you describe is making it defective. You shouldn't have to deal with this. Maybe you could get a refund? He probably wants to keep the hundreds bucks of profit so he'll probably help you. Or, try to deal with eBay, PayPal or your credit card company to get a refund if he doesn't give support (claim as defective), or if you then tell the item was sold illegally using someone else's intellectual property. The fact that it was sold outside of eBay doesn't help though... Members are skeptical about giving help to any new members due to what happened with the person who you bought the SEQ from. (I'm surprised though, I thought BL only sold SID synths) TK, makes me wonder, I wasn't there when the idiot came here, but have you tried to solve the problem directly? It might be worth the hassle if it could bring back some of the money for every MBs he has sold. ;D (Let's see... about $10K USD (!) :-X ) http://www.speakernetnews.com/post/iptheft.html Can help reporting the IP theft though.

Could be fixed if there's enough space between the traces by putting ground traces between the signal traces placed horizontally on the top. Only one side of them would be connected together, like antennas. It will absorb interference.

Il ne semble pas y avoir de problème. Par contre, il serait peut-être bien de tester les touches avant d'en construire plus, pour voir si le contrôle de vélocité parvient à bien fonctionner, ou si la course est trop grande entre les deux contacts (la vélocité deviendrait nulle à une moindre hésitation des doigts, mais je ne n'ai pas essayé le prototype physiquement ;) pour savoir si ça serait un problème ou non)

I guess everyone's 37, there are a few others who don't turn 38 today. I'll see in May if I suddenly get 20 years older... ;D