HL-SDK

R U SHUR? 18 watts is a HELL of a lot to dissipate...

Actually, I'm going to buy a whole new core module and everything and just call this project over with

That's a damn weird problem! I dont know much about your setup, are the regulators hot? Some automatically switch themselves off... interesting...

I'm going to go buy a new opto next time I get more parts and if that doesnt work then it's new core time I guess! Thanks for the suggestion, I'd suppose opto just doesnt work any more, because all resistors and everything else is good A reason I dont suspect the opto is because the box will send midi, and it responds to incomming midi... It just gives me a crappy response.

Get one transformer rated at LEAST one amp at 14-18 volts. Then you can use a bridge rectifier, and ground the negative, put the positive into at least 2,200 microfarads of capacitance, then into both a +12 volt regulator, and a +5 volt regulator. That will give you +12 and +5! :-D

I did not burn the PIC, it was done for me by smashTV, and he says it is all zero... Rather, the sticker does. I dobut there is any way to test baudrate without one of those burner modules? If there is, I would love to try it. I dont know weather to get a JDM module to burn PICs myself, or to buy a new pic, or get it reprogrammed.

Make sure the soundcard doesn't also need a -12V, because for some electrical components, they need a +v, a -V and a ground. In that case, get a 30 volt center tapped power supply rated 1.5 amps or above and look for dual power supply schematics on the internet... If it's just +12 and +5 as you say, get a 1.5 or 2 amp transformer that gives you 14 to 16 volts, and put 2 voltage regulators on there (in parallel, not series) The 12vout goes to soundcard, and the 5vout goes to the core. When you say build a sound card into it... are you just talking about the opl3 module? Or is this some new idea we should watch out for? ;)

You build your own board, or using a kit/someone's design?

Whenever I send any midi data to the core, it responds with the same string and MIOSstudio interprets that as "midi in frame error 0C" So I have tried to upload code, whenever I give the core anything, it gives me this error... I might have to get this pic reburnt :-/ Does anyone know if this can be an optocoupler issue? (Probably not :-/)

This is a big issue and I dont want to be a dick, but I don't want to buy a third pic and have it fail yet again. I'm ready to wrap this project up.

Those may be crappy pictures, but that's a damn good build!

WHAT IS CAPITAL LETTER TALJKING>!!@>!@>#!! You have a short, or you wired incorrectly, or (unlikely) your sid is fried so badly that it lets audio through. Any are you plugging your amp into the sid input? Sounds go out into the input, sounds go out from the output

Maybe it's just for microcontrollers... Either way, I'll try again hmmmm --- Microchip currently only accepts online sample orders from registered business or university email addresses. We currently do not accept orders from generic ISP accounts. Please do one of the following: 1. Register with a valid business or university email address and place your sample order :( Anyway... Maxim will send me samples... of what they have... :-/ lol

Also, microchip needs a educational or registered business (email?) (address?) to send samples. I was dissapointed :'(

On a totally different note, I'm getting a high-end 4 amp linear +/-15 V power supply. Hah. Continue.

Trying to upload SID to my second core (first one is broken) Does this sound like a hardware issue? (I highly dobut because these boards have worked before) Has anyone encountered this error? I am using the latest smash core. I have an LCD that is probably hooked up right and it displays one solid bar, like I had weeks ago with the first core before it worked. --edit I get the upload request string once at startup which leads me to believe MIOS is installed as my little sticker says :) But does the LCD stay like this? I thought it gave a "Ready." --edit 00000000092283 ms | Sysex message: F0 00 00 7E 40 00 0E 0C 00 F7 00000000414606 ms | Sysex message: F0 00 00 7E 40 00 01 F7 ^Little excerpt... These are MIDI IN

I tried to do his VCF... it still doesnt work but I dont have much to test it with so I'll never know... As for analog synths, you should either build a resistor network 1v/oct keyboard, or get a midi->CV interface first. Then get a dual power supply. (+/-12 or 15 volts) After those two, good luck, I hope you don't go broke! :-p

Make sure your software is configured for the right LCD arrangement (20 instead of 40) That shouldn't have much to do with it :-/ Try another 2x20

Check it at the end of the commodore connector on the right pins for AC before plugging it into PSU to make sure your power supply is good.

The bridge rectifier can be discreet diodes, but for simplicity, you can get a rshack rectifier (I have to go there and get one or 2. Even the cheapest ones will be good enough. Look for a current rating of 1 amp or more. The voltage rating shouldn't be an issue. 50 is bare minumum. The smaller caps on PSU's aren't too hyper-extremely importaint. Don't worry ;-D

Yes, in electronics, a %10 difference rarely makes a difference (I know there are special occasions!!!!!) 100uF to 22000uF are good for PSU.. 100uF is cutting it close... Try to go in the thousands

You cant talk to him because I'm bugging him!

I meant AC by seeing the position of the wave. It doesn't update fast enough. My DMM has ACV up to 700 or so, but it gives some average... mught be RMS. I meant more of a visualization thing

I'm going to be programming my own DIN config, I haven't actually talked about it here but it resembles my microKorg a lot It has the basic control surface, PLUS: Filter cutoff and res, Filter ADSR, Amp ADSR, and if I had a dout, one of 5 white LED's will light up when you press a button the CS... but they'll be always-on. So! MAkes me think I've forgotten something....

If that useful link for some reason does not help, I know I'm "wrong" but you can not measure AC voltage with a slow digital multimeter, even an analog one wouldn't be that great (I have both). An Oscilloscope is usually the best tool for that, but the cheapest new ones I've seen are around $150 (I own it), great for a serious beginner!