sineSurfer

hehe you really are so confident about the J-B weld, I guess I can wait to see the construction guide :)

after doing a lot of moving holes around on FPD I decided not to take the "mod wilba's panel" road, more pain that is worth. Instead i'll build 1 stereo MBSID and wait for the next group buy for mb6582 PCB's, but still want to have a small change on the front panel: No glued screws on the back of the panel at all. besides having my doubts about the long term durability using J-Bweld glue, I'm pretty sue I can/will screw something when glueing. So back to theory: I figured out from your prototype photos that by adding extra holes(8, 4 for the corners, 4 on the LCD area) on the front panel to hold the control PCB , reducing the standoffs size(to 9/32") to allow the use of nuts and washers on the encoders(encoder holes on the front panel down to 10mm instead of 14mm) and changing switches 13mm tall to 9.5mm it would be possible to hold everything tight in there without any more worries on my side. :) the biggest doubt is if the LCD can fit in there. What do you think about all this Wilba? and some more questions: which standoff size you used? the LCD is it mounted over or under the PCB on your last design? thanks!

thanks seppoman!, that info clarifies everything. it's hard to understand things without the hardware around to test :)

Hi Thorsten! :) so, if using minimun control surface you still can select between master and slave on stereo mbSID via the screen menus? or for that matter, between mono and stereo? MBSID V2 firmware includes all the four engines and you can select the one you want to use then? sorry for this questions, is not that clear to me from what I can understand on the manual :-[

Ok, let's begin: there is the "shift" switch on the Minimum Control Surface to select sound engines, is this the equivalent to the MultiSID panel 4 switches with leds to select each chip? Stereo version with minimum control surface can work for all the new modes* without any changes to the software?: *Lead Engine *Bassline Engine *Drum Engine *Multi Engine or each new mode uses different app? thanks

Fxs I have built so far: rebote 2.5 delay MXR Distortion Plus blues breaker Tube Screamer (Ibanez TS909 clone, still on the bench waiting for parts) power supply those are from www.tonepad.com easy to build, with parts list, schematics and ready to transfer PCB drawings great sounds. worth it only for the joy of building each one and all the knob tweaking, it would be great if anyone finds how to mod the fxs to be controlled via CV on the other side, cheaper and ready to go: old Rack units: Alesis Quadraverb GT ART SGX LT(had one of this units for years). both are great rack units, best with floor pedalboard or MIDI controlled. new floor units: Boss GT8 Line 6 POD XT Adrenalinn 2 or 3 I have a boss GT3 as a master with an Adrenalinn 2 on the fx loop , any sound you can think of and some more , this two units together will do. the Line 6 sounds really great but I have 2 friends with broken units, so I would not get one of this for the road.

Hi Again Wilba, could you help me to clarify this: on the fpd file the grid setting is 0.1", so fpd screenshot and photo would be equivalent and fit nicely, right? edited:it seems that I missed moving the leds .05" to the right

Hi, thanks for the link and info!

Hi jimp!, any news about shipments?

cool, will do that, thanks!

Exelent news!!! just 1 detail: I live in Mexico, and here, if you can't track a package and it appears to have something remotely valuable you can be sure it will get lost/stolen, just happened to me with something coming from USA worth $20 only, go figure! so, Can you clarify this for me please: is "Parcel" postage trackable? if not, can you offer any trackable and preferably faster option for shipping? extra cost is not an issue for me.

nice shoots!!, seeing this I wish I had ordered red instead of gray >:( :P

unless you find another 99 people wanting the pt10 I guess there are no chances for a price cut, look: PacTec btw. anyone knows if this case includes the aluminum front panel?

sure, no problem, I was intending to confirm it's for real :-[

If you have future access to 4,000 more 6582 chips, add another 2 to my order!!!*whack*

good tips Mr. zip! I'm still filling my head with all the available info here before making my move ;D

I was thinking about stacking them by pairs like a sandwich: on one corner mbSID on top of: mbCore on the other: DINx4 on top of: DINx4 next: DOUTx4 on top of: DOUTx4 last: mmm, anyone can tell me how many DINx4 and DOUTx4 do I need to have a working 1 chip mbSID if I remove the LED matrix but keep all the encoders, switches and the rest of the LEDs?, is no't that clear to me and I've been reading the forums ;D Thanks again!

You got me there! yeees, i'm seeing the light! Simple, as an exercise to learn more about all the process you went thru; if you didn't notice, you just paved the road for the rest of us ;), btw. i'll get one as soon as they are available again either from you or from smashTV for sure. One thing I would try to change is the different sections placement, I been tinkering around with the FPD file enough to notice all your effort behind it, and that actually there is a small room to change stuff, if any. So here comes the compromises, I would take out the led matrix, I can't see myself using it too much, but then again I'm a beginner about all this stuff and how the mbSID works. A practical way to see this is that l learn a lot, reduce costs on components and panel and hopefully at the end I get a good looking and sounding synth, and also unique. And still get the chance to build your version when it's available 8) I would change the LCD to be centered and like half way to the top of the panel and a biiiiig encoder knob next to it. And finally, my bain tells me to group together the things in the best confortable way for me to use: OSC controls -> LFO controls O O O O O -> O O ENV controls -> Filter controls O O O O O -> O O Now, me being left handed probably this figure would get all reversed, something like this: BigEncoder -> LCD ( ) -> [____] LFO -> OSC O O -> O O O O O Filter -> Env O O -> O O O O O weird to look at, I guess! Yes, I noticed on your photos, I figured out that mounting the encoders directly into the panel may help to avoid glueing standoffs and give the panel more strength, that is if every encoder is soldered to the same piece of vero or at least 1 vero for each row of encoders, am I right?; that's why it's important to know if they would fit into the current panel when mounted like this. Of course I would need to move the drillings as a group to keep the same distances, or measure everything perfect. And there is my friend the dremel to help those encoders to behave ;D I guess this is closely related to the PCB traces, right? right you are, sir. :) All this came because I will get a panel from FPE (the group buy for the mb808) and may be ordering 1 MB-6582 original and my modified version as well, to save some $ on shipment and customs duty. (all this DIY stuff easily gets twice as expensive if you don't live in the States) Pd. this is very educative for me, thanks a lot... would you mind if I come back with more questions as I go? Later.

Hi, I have 1 question about your panel Wilba. I'm thinking about doing a striped down variation of your panel layout to house just 1 SID. Can it work mounting the control surface parts on veroboard? or I would need to do my own PCB? I know the encoders can be mounted directly on the panel, but I'm worried about the switches and LEDS default spacing. btw. are you left handed? just curious because of the filter encoders location on the panel, on the opposite side than pretty much any other synth I've seen before ;D ;D ;D. I'm left handed and still looks strange to me hehe. Thanks.

Hi sebastian, could you tell me the size of the standoffs you used to hold the pcb with the square switches? btw, the router looks very pro!!!

The perfect candidate:Paia Fatman + any MIDI controller :)

yes, definitely will bug the courier, the shipment costed me more than the c84 alone. also, already got an e-mail from the seller offering to find a replacement, as it was his fault to begin with i'll follow thru with that too, let's see how this ends :)

Hi Jaicen, good tip, i'll try that. mmm... wait, I don't have that cable, do you know which pins to use?

I'm looking into doing something about it, but as there was 2 couriers involved, USPS on the USA side and Estafeta(on Mexico) and the packaging was really weak I don't think I will get too far with the claim. And the worst thing is... the SID may be faulty, I hooked the c64 to the tv, wrote a small program to test the chip and I could hear the sound, but with the tv volume at max, that is 80 on my tv, I usually set it at 35 at most, so... I guess I'll go first with step A to be sure about the SID, then move on from there.

nice info, in fact the plan was to use just 1 core, but with all the controls. So kind of you nebula!!!, I'll pm you.