Smithy
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Posts posted by Smithy
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I believe you are on the right track...
Ewwww! What a revolting pun!
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Why would you do that?
Take the 3 out of the number and you have your answer. :wink:
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Congratulations Hawkeye!
I soldered the new cables, and everything is fine except for 3 LEDs not lighting.
Im not too worried about them now though, im having too much fun!
Your tutorial is excellent, its extremely well written, to the point, and step by step.
You cannot ask for better really.
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I've only now spotted that an updated version of ASID XP came out in December 2009.
Current version is now 1.02.
http://www.elektron.se/products/sidstation
One sid in paticular that was problematic on the older version was track 3 of Target Renegade.sid.
It now plays fine with no issues, but still no perfect last ninja 2 playback. :(
It should now have better compatibility with certain sid files at least. :)
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Looks like it might be okay, once it hasnt burnt through the track itself (the tracks are the green lines on the pcb).
A track basically is a line of copper underneath the green (silkscreen) part of the pcb, that carries the current.
Once you havent broken the track it should be fine.
Use the continuity function on your multimeter, to test between the solder point near the blob, and the next solder point on the track.
If the track is okay, your multimeter should beep if it has the beep function.
Touch the two probes together first to see if it has a beeper.
If it doesnt have a beeper, then the resistance value should drop to 0 eventually, (it might stay at 1 for a while).
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REGISTANCE IS FUTILE!
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Yeeesss, man that totally made my day! Especially the background speech. Great vid! ;-) *smiling now*
Btw: your MB6582 is looking great!
o_O
Dude you're not meant to be awake! Go haz some sleepz nao plz!
You must be too excited from building all day! I know the feeling.
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I haz made Knob Removal tool, in case you fuck up after you have finished mb-6582,
e.g. ribbon cable breaks or whatever.
Cut a rectangle/square into a piece of plastic card, like a credit card or whatever.
Make sure the notch is about 7mm wide to fit around the shaft of the encoder / pot.
Slide it under the knob, and lift it off. This way helps prevent marking the panel.
Told you i wouldnt have anything worthwile. :wink:
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I recommend you use flat washers in between the spring washers and the screws that go into the threaded spacers for the CS.
The spring washers on their own tend to eat up the lovely gold plates on the PCB,
im wishing i used flat washers now.
Just adding that tip here so i dont post in the middle of your guide for the CS Construction.
If i can think of any worthwhile tips ill post them here. ;)
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Those look a bit big alright, i ordered these ones which were posted in the "Killed CS thread", they have a shorter connector:
Or from Conrad:
http://www.conrad.de/ce/de/product/741256/PLATINEN-STECKVERBINDER-8-POLIG
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Excellent work! Took me about 3 years to get that far ;).
I notice you have SIL headers on the base board, for where the CS will connect.
What connectors are you planning to use there?
If you're planning to use the same connector thats used for the LCD, it will be too big,
theres even less space to play with there, than with J15.
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I had the same problem so i decided to order those cables from Conrad also.
Ill have to cut one of them into a 2-pin version.
The ribbon cables that didnt break, were very easy to pull off by hand.
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One last thing i forgot to ask is if you put 90 degree bends at the end of the wires,
or did you just solder them straight?
The latter im assuming.
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Woah! Youre are actually using cable twice as long, i overlooked the 6" in the description.
Mine are just left than half. Thanks a lot for the pics,
it looks like there will be a lot less strain on the cable doing it that way, at least where the ends of the wire are concerned.
Thanks a lot for sharing the pics Dan.
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I used the 6" ribbon from mouser that were already pre-scored at the ends cables and soldered them from the underside of the control surface to the top side of the base board. I just tucked the rest inside making sure that the cable did not fold completely. The nice thing about the longer cable is that I can take the top off and unscrew the baseboard without additional cable tension. I've had no problems with them. I can post some pictures if that helps.
HI Digineural, thanks for the reply!
I'm using the same cable you described, ordered it from Mouser too.
I would really appreciate the pics, as im trying to figure out how you tucked them in.
I bought 10, already ruined one, and since I need 8 cables + 1 with only 2 wires for the 5v / GND, i dont really want to risk damaging the 9th one.
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Are you using a c64 power supply for it, or just some other PSU with a DIN connector?
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The "ideal" length I specified is for when the cable is stiff and can't bend much. Any longer and the case won't close. Maybe very flexible cable could form another bend in it when closed, but unlikely.
In your situation, I suggest marking where you would get 42mm of insulation, cutting the insulation between the wires up to that point, then stripping off the insulation using wire cutters, instead of the "score and pull" method that I found worked better for the stiff cable.
Moving the insulation like you suggest might lead to other problems, so I wouldn't recommend it.
Thanks for the advice wilba. I actually tried it that way (after scoring the cable), but after seeing the marks i decided to stop. Should be fine this time.
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Cant believe i'm almost there.
In the CS guide it says to cut into the flat side of the ribbon cable.
The problem is, that my ribbon cable is ribbed on both sides,
and its almost impossible to strip the insulation without cutting into the wire as a result.
The insulated piece is 50mm long, and the wires stick 4mm out on each end.
which is a total of about 58mm.
Would it be okay to solder it as is, or would it be too long?
The guide does say that the perfect length would be 42mm to 43mm.
The only other way i can think of stripping the insulation,
is by pulling on the 8 wires with a long nose pliers, so the insulation slides back.
And then cutting across the excess/overlapping insulation,
and pushing the insulation back down the wires again.
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From previous testing I know the LEDS are functioning. My meter in continuity mode presents a led friendly current. I am able to light each LED individually from the main PCB points, and CS PCB points.
I just finished soldering the LEDs and encoders, and was looking for a way of testing them.
I never the current from a continuity tester would be strong enough to light an LED,
it works like a charm.
In the CS Construction Guide, it says to test the Power LED with a resistor value, in order to determine what value resistors you should use for LEDs on the PCB.
Since there are more LEDs on the CS per resistor, wont the brightness differ to the brighness from the Power LED?
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Sorry for you - how bad is it f***ed up?
And thanks for the warning!
As I have the beforementioned job ahead of me, I will try to first build the control surface with everything (standoffs, switches, leds) in place, aligned and soldered, and when the alignment is good, I will apply small blobs of epoxy directly on the standoffs screwed to the control surface pcb. Very small amounts of epoxy should suffice as there are ~20 connections points.
Bye,
Peter/Hawkeye
No problems, i was hoping it would be useful to somebody.
The panel was fine, it just had the blobs of JB Weld on the back.
I decided to sand them off, using sand paper, a dremmel would be ideal,
but sanding paper was all i had.
Half way through i flipped it over and there were quite a few light scratches on the front,
possibly from epoxy debris falling between the front of the panel and the cardboard i had it resting on.
So i decided to stop before i did more damage, and decided to use the first panel i received from FPD instead,
(the one with the bad paint infill).
The other one with the scratches will be going to nILS.
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Right, as i made a monumental fuck up in aligning the pcb with the panel, i think I better give a warning to people who are considering having
Countersunk Corner Holes & Screws in their panel..
Bottomline is, that you should not use the 4 Screws to align the panel with the PCB,
as they will not be perfectly perpendicular to the back of the panel, because they will have room to move around in the countersunk holes., (unless you're lucky)
This is basically what happened:
I put the 4 countersunk screws through the holes at the front of the panel, and i used a spring washer and nut on the opposite side of each screw, to lock them into the back of the panel.
When trying to mount the PCB, i realized that it was easy to get 3 screws through the holes of the PCB,
but it was tricky to get all 4 screws through the holes.
Looking back now, this was a warning sign that the screws were NOT perfectly aligned / perpendicular at that time, but i assumed i was not holding the pcb perfectly horizontal while trying to drop it into the screws.
I also used 2 additional nuts per screw, each were either side of the PCB to hold it in place.
And i inserted some switches as directed by the guide to help with the alignment.
It was only after the 24 hours of applying the weld, and clamping the pcb and panel together,
that i realized the shafts of switches were pushed a bit diagonally.
This was because the threaded spacers were between 0.5mm and 1mm too far to the left of the back panel (out of alignment),
and the switches (being the weakest) were forced to the side.
What i would recommend from my experience,
is to not use the screws to align the panel and pcb,
but to actually solder the switches first and use the switches to align them.
Obviously before you solder the switches to the PCB, be sure to mark off where the standoffs go on the panel, as stated in the guide.
You will have to be extra careful not to push a Switch into a blob of JB Weld,
in particular the button for SID L R, as that is the closest switch to a standoff.
Remember this is only for people using countersunk corner holes/screws.
Might be a better idea to use non-countersunk holes and button head screws, as they should be perfectly perpendicular to the panel.
Or even better use no holes at all, and weld the 4 screws to the back of the panel as Wilba did in the guide.
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Can i haz 10 chipz with mah cheezburger?
kthxbai
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Beautique!
IN SOVIET RUSSIA, MIDIBOX MAKES YOU!
hehehe.
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Wow man thats awesome!
I am insanely jealous.
I thought a panel would with a commodore logo would be cool, but i never actually thought of adding it myself, i didnt think there would be enough room.
If a tribute mb-6582 was ever built for Bob Yannes, it be cool to get one made up with his signature.
MB-6582 manga/commodore frontpanel
in MIDIbox SID
Posted · Edited by Smithy
Unfortunately not, but here are piccies of the hot gurrrl in question:
Happy MB-6582ing!