Foona

Imagine a Roland Juno with motorized faders...mmmmm :)

Haha :) Im a Trekkie nerd myself Buhler! Last week i did a Voyager maraton. I almost died from malnutricion.

I concure, rabidshare doesen't work for me. I can't grab the files :(

dougmoser: These are perect for a MIDIbox LC.

Swinkels! your a life saver! :)

Thats a very cool name Buhler! 8)

aaaaaaaaw that baby is sooo cute!!! ;D

I might have lost my job, but my sence of humour is still intact. :) Finding a new job ain't easy, so hold em thumbs for me man!

;)

...pubic hair...hihihiihihhi ;D I concure, pretty precise driling. When i drill....well....it looks kinda messed up. So i put more details on to fool the eyes. And can you believe it, it never works! :o

;D YES AIA! Blood an Fiyah! ;D

Im looking to purchase ALPHA pots of this type: http://cgi.ebay.com/Alpha-Potentiometer-Pot-16mm-10K-Linear-Taper_W0QQitemZ170167004447QQihZ007QQcategoryZ22669QQrdZ1QQssPageNameZWD1VQQcmdZViewItemQQ_trksidZp1638Q2em118Q2el1247 This one has a 1/4" shaft that translates into 6,3mm in metric. I am in need of the same ALPHA 16mm mini pot type but with a 6mm shaft. It's inportant that the shaft is round and smooth. (not knurled or D shafts). And im gonna need 33 pcs of them. Anyone here sitting on a treasurebox full of these suckers? Oh yeah, i live in Sweden, this is where ther items need to be shipped obviously... :P Im gonna go mad soon if i don't get these pots. Iv'e been searching for ages for these type of pots. And when i do find them, the seller is located far away, and wont ship to me. Those who will ship to me don't have the right shaft sizes. Please help me out.

Haha ;D Am i getting predictable? The Dub Masta would not be the Dub Masta without an Irie Color Scheme 8) Theres only one revelant name i can think of since that post..... The SlickStation! :P We'll have to throw a few more ideas your way, to try to find the appropriate name.

I love when people do woodwork! It's gonna be sweet seing that finished MBFM.

I would gladely put myself up for 2 SID's after testing. ;D

me 4......and... YAY! its up again! =)

Needs to have this! I was looking for another reason to build a second MB ;D Thanx!

No need to thank me stryd_one. Im just trying to give back what iv'e got from you guys. :) Baconjuice: I might have gotten this PSU thingy down (exept for the diodes..ehrm..), but im faaar away from understanding how all the other curcuits work. I guess i'll get those in time too. Mr Bugfight, i think were gonna have to pull out some leather wips soon.. 8) And Buuuuuhleeeer ;D SLAP!!! I bet you liked that one huh..oh yeah!

HAHAHA!!! I LOVE IT!! ;D

Solid copper wire also makes it easier to clean you nails :P

Ah, i didn't know this. So if they get like really hot..doesen't that mean they are drawing too much current or something? Or are they just simply faulty/damaged?

I wouldn't worry about patience here. If this forum has an abudance of anything, it's patience...and information. ;D When i started in the DIY electronics buissness, i hardly knew anything myself. But by the help of google, forums like this one and patience ;) iv'e learned alot. So im gonna try to answer your questions. Thing on the left: The thing on the left is a bridge rectifier. You can either use a rectifier or regular 1n4001, 1n4002, etc.. diodes. With diodes you need 4 of them. It will look like this: (i borowed this part from the C64 optimized circuitry for the SIDv2) Reguator pinning: Be shure to check the pinouts of the regulators. Do a search on them, and im shure you'll find datasheets on them too ;) <add-edit> aw hell... here you go: Regulator Pinouts BUT! Do not assume that this pinout is the right one. Be shure to check the datasheets for the regulators you have. I'll borrow a quote from a Steven Seagal movie. "assumption is the mother of all fuckups" Regarding ground: If you look closely at the schematic from the wiki above that iv'e linked to, you can see two AC outputs from transformer going to oposite sides of the rectifier (the diod looking thingy). And the middle one is 0 volts (GND=ground). I know that reading schematics can be hard when being a n00b, and i always try to find graphical info, wich makes it easier to grasp. So i made this for you: Hopefully i did it the right way (in any other case im shure im gonna get slapped by somone), and hopefully you will see the answers right away. :) Double sized caps? Im not shure about what you mean with double sized caps, but be shure to make shure youv'e got the right types. If you look at the schematic, 100n looks to be ceramic, other sorts can be used, but i bet this schematic is based on ceramic ones. You do not have to take polarity in count with these. The 10u ones is electrolytic caps. These have polarity. The thick line on these (looking at the schematics) are - and the thin lines are +. eh...do i make sense? Be shure about all this before you do anything! As the wiki say, polarised caps can blow up if mounted in the wrong direction. Anyone noticing errors in what iv'e stated here may slap me! ;D oh yeah, regarding the mk528, i have no idea what this is. But you've peaked my interest, so i'll check it out. Hopefully somone else here on the forum might answer you before im able to. <correction-edit> After being slaped by bugfight iv'e changed the statement about using 1N4148 diodes for rectifying, to 1n4001, 1n4002 power diodes. Thanx bugfight!

Looks like it yeah. Only problem is, i'll have to wait a whole month, before i can purchase those ATmel AVR's. Since i lost my job, moneys been hard to come by. So..looks like you're gonna finish before me.

I allready regret doing that. And yes' date=' MIDIboxing have saved me from eternal damnation. And yes i will build a ridiculous amount of the same type of box until i die from starvation. And yes i wish to be buried in a casket made out of cores. And yes i would like TK and Smash as eulogy speakers at my funeral using only verbes. Mabye then i can find peace in death....or, i will haunt you all by afflicting vital components in your ipods with malfunction and random voltages. DAMNATION IS NEAR! [img']http://www.ptc-crew.com/assets/DIY/smileys_an_animatons/maniac.gif Back to the topic... Iv'e been sitting here all morning trying to learn about jitter. And so iv'e learned what it is. Then i started searching for jitter compensation and such, but here im at a big loss. I suck big time at maths. I have no idea where to start. Well, if i find the right formula, it may be possible for me to do the calculations. Then again, knowing if i did it right..haha... <add-edit> Im sitting here designing the frontpanel in AutoCAD. A guy from another forum will make the panel for me using his CNC-cutter. I was about to send him the file with my finished design when I realized, i haven't put any menu features on it. So i browsed Ucapps and I found out that menu buttons can be dissabled, and be used a midi triggers. Well either way, there is one menu option i want on the box. I would like to be able to change banks. Is there a way to use use only two bankshift buttons? Like one for increment and the other one for decrement, just cyling through banks? It's the only menu option i need on the "fly" when performing live. Or if somone has a better way of doing this with the least ammount of buttons, please tell me.

Aaaaw man :( Mabye i jinxed you. Since i started with th C64 OPT curcuitry iv'e been experimenting with, different regulators and voltages. I did too feed 12v into a 5v reg, and true, it gets rather hot. I had to put a BIG heatsink. It helped but it did not feel stable. Sounds like there is still some leakage in your system. I don't want to say this...but...it might still be a bad solder somwhere, or shortage. And thats even worse, cuz it's a pain to find them even with a strong magnifying glass. "Dammit captain! I don't, have, the power!"