jojjelito
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Posts posted by jojjelito
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No ref here either, but Alps RK09L (RK09L114001T) with all metal shafts are stiffer. Some Alpha or Taiwan Alpha pots are way stiff, search for those to suit if the Alps is not OK.
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凄ã„ã§ã™ã!
That's orsome! é ‘å¼µã£ã¦ãã ã•ã„! (gambatte kudasai). We wan't some iThingy/Androgyny pixx taken with Hipstamatic and some nasty lens/filter approximation!
:drool:
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This is for Wilba's PCB that uses the more or less standard TL1100F160Q switch that's also used in Sammich, Xoxbox, Shruthi and more other places than you could shake a stick at. The keycaps are available at Mouser or Digikey and are either E-switch TA12BLK, TA12BLU etc or with better grip: the PE series by C&K. Search Digi-key for PE WH, PE BK etc. Those are also found in red and gray.
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Take some time and narrow down what you want in terms of mounting, resistance and type of shaft. I've used various depending on which type of project, enclosure etc.
I don't know which method of mounting you would prefer, but going by the datasheet I wanted something vertical with bushing or sleeve so EVJ-Y96 and -Y91 was searched for. Produit non stocké - merde!
Digi-key is easier - Search for EVU-F3L for single pots (cheat by looking at the datasheet!) and you'll get to select between Lin (control, balance) and Log (audio). Aha, not fun, you can get 5k, 20k, 50k so if you absolutely must have 10k you are SOL with Panasonic.
What next - try Alpha (or TaiwanAlpha), Alps or Bourns. Go to pots and start narrowing things down - 10K, single turn, 6mm axle (actuator dia) and top adj. Select in stock. Now you're down to some 16 choices. Compare type against datasheets - oh the fun!
Go with EVU-F3M and never look back. Or something. Double: EVJY-81, 91 or 96. Pick for instance the nice metal bushing EVJ-Y91F03B14 and never look back.
You want another shaft (knurled or some non-metric dia)? Change the search params, rinse and repeat.
Mouser: Do the keyword Alps and narrow it down. You'll end up looking (a lot!) at the datasheet for the RK09 and RK12L series. Same with Alpha: RV141F (with clear shaft for some LED fun) or... Now you know why people get minor headaches when sourcing components!
Take a peek here: Mouser catalog page for Alpha or here for some Bourns love.
Sorry if this sounds complicated, there are lots of choices out there for sure. And you have to iterate your search.
Good luck!
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Hiya!
What you want is potentiometers with mid-point detent. Take a peek in the relevant pages at Digi-Key or Mouser. Search for potentiometer, then refine to say 9mm PCB-mounted, and load the relevant page that's suggested when looking at one of them. Now have fun matching the article numbers with actual inventory :sorcerer:
Capisce? If not I'll give you an example later.
Cheers!
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Mmm, green or fluorescent green is where it's at :nuke: Wonder if that's obtainable?
Laters,
J
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Hi all,
Looking for 10-25 Re'an P401 knobs. I'm too shy to call Sulzer since they'll want me to buy 1k or more. Does anyone have a few to spare?
Thanks,
/J
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I have a 1.5mm thick panel too from JulianF. It should be the same as the Wilba fpd AFAIK.
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I'd be in for one too if someone can get a batch made :ike:
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That's cheating. The lead turd I came up with was that I wanted to "slightly" machine the bit so that it became in-plane with the front panel. The ensuing work was dangerously close to regression therapy.
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Got a nice Fluro CD case at Rusta that I Dremelled like crazy. Looks OK, but it was far too much work to be viable considering how easy it may break. Next up: A trip to some hardware supplier. There are a few who do CNC work and are willing to use leftover bits for cheap.
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These are all 1/4" shafts, not the usual 6mm, but with the right pot she'll be right. I had to stop myself from writing something size-related and lewd.
What.An.Interesting.Place BTW! Like Small Bear but weirder somehow. Hmm :shifty:
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Looking good!
I went with the very low-profile PCB connectors at Reichelt (art 32346) for my base board to CS and hope to report back shortly when done. See the post Please note that the white ones are taller so you have to see past the nasty 70/80s' colour (it's in a box anyways).
The LCD got connected with normal dual pin header like those for your other cores, no special IDC socket in my case. But, try it and let us know. It won't hurt if you can fit it.
:frantics:
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Hiya,
Well, I connected all the data lines. So far there hasn't been any problems but since my CS has been in flux, and not really completed I haven't really ran my MB6582 for any long sessions yet. I'm about to finish the CS (must add LEDs around the encoders, plus detachable cabling) so that I can finally take her out to sea. My CS so far has been something I veroboarded for kicks. Then we shall see about that OLED thingy... And that external filter/VCA box with a beefy PSU.
Great picture BTW! You should add this to the Wiki. You have to be retarded or very very very tired not to succeed following this :logik:
Cheers!
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Hi,
Hmm, Chapter 7 - looks like my CrystalFonts pdf :)
Since the pins match mine here we go.
Please also be aware that assuming a standard 16-pin flat cable the pinning from right (Sids higher up than the cores of the baseboard) will be thus:
1,9,2,10,3,11,4,12,... up to 8, 16.
Therefore we also denote cable strands like so: [x]
J15_Core1 pins to display pin:
1[1]: D7 - Dpin 14 9[2]: B+ - Dpin 15 (Led+, A, Anode) 2[3]: D6 - Dpin 13 10[4]: B- - Dpin 16 (Led-, K, Cathode) 3[5]: D5 - Dpin 12 11[6]: Vb - Dpin 1 (Gnd) 4[7]: D4 - Dpin 11 12[8]: Vd - Dpin 2 (+5V) 5[9]: D3 - Dpin 10 13[10]: VO - Dpin 3 (VLDD, variable) 6[11]: D2 - Dpin 9 14[12]: RS - Dpin 4 7[13]: D1 - Dpin 8 15[14]: RW - Dpin 5 8[15]: DO - Dpin 7 16[16]: E - Dpin 6
Don't be bothered by the 4-bit mode unless your display does something really weird. Also, remember to turn the P2CoreN trimmer so that you can see something else than a blank display for Core1 and possibly the other cores if you're testing those.
Good luck!
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Where are you located? I'll take the GM5x5x5 off you :P
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Hmm, there's now more options out there. You can haz OLEDs from Raystar Optronics, or from Newhaven if you shop around. Both of those come in lovely shades of green! :clover:
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Haha, I thought it was just MIDIbox lore that
blamenILS();
was the base class of everything. Little did I know of the truth.
Still, see what you can negotchagate with the people of Munich, they might let you off if you bring them some Darell Lea liquorice if you're lucky! If not you have to go apologize to the pope in Rome.
Enjoy Wienna before that though! Rumo(there's a u innit!)r has it that they might know a thing or two about desserts, wine and Schnitzels and likesuchas there.
Prost!
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Ahh, don't be so hard on him after an ungodly long flight! If his beer_counter was unsigned zero and you -- it it will underflow, wrap around and mean that poor Wilba has to drink an entire Oktoberfest worth of beer :poke: Das ist ganz unangenehm!
But "Doucheland" - God will kill a lorikeet or a koala each time that is mentioned in spite :no:
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Hiya,
Your calculation seems valid enough. The problem you will face is that you can't really translate a luminous intensity value of x% into a meaningful way of expressing perceived brightness. That depends on your ambient light settings, LED color, viewing angle and distance to object, plus the number of LEDs that are lit. Hence, people of this forum have told others to eyeball it - i.e watch the box in a darkened setting in the corner of your eye and adjusting the brightness so that it barely begins to annoy you, then take it down a notch from there.
So - what to do: Solder a DIL socket on the baseboard for the LED resistors, connect a pot and adjust the value between the center led and either side until you're happy. Then measure VR and select the next larger standard resistor value and go with that. Since the resistors are socketed you can easily swap them if you're unhappy. Hawkeye used something similar in the way of LEDs for his CS tutorial and he stuck with 1kOhm. I suggest you start off from there.
Cheers!
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Totally OT: Have you seen the iPad editor for the FS1r? Still, dedicated hardware would rock my rack (that's what she said, constable)... I guess one could freely borrow layout ideas from it if nothing else. Oh, and they have a few Waldorf editors (not the uWave) to look at.
Oh, and congrats on getting a great synth - it kicks ass IMHO :afro:
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It looks the business! Let's hear it sing, growl and purr :ike:
Oh, and congrats to your new toybox!
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Great idea Nebula! Always go for quick and dirty (doesn't everyone have a bench supply, what's up with that?).
Here we go for a quick and reliable solution. Add a 7905 regulator for some -5V fun to the -9V side (and reverse polarity protection diodes if you're ultra-picky!):
TFTFY :flowers:
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Google voltage inverter and you'll find some (noisy) circuits based around a 555 timer. Or you use a dedicated IC for lesser noise like a LM2687 for instance. The best way to do this without noise or various switchers is to use a bipolar supply.
Please be aware that you can't use an inverting opamp to get -12V from a +12V supply. It will never go below GND at any event. You can use a trick like connecting +6V to a local virtual ground, use 0V as -6V, 12V then becomes 6V. However, as soon as you connect this to the outside world where 0V is ground you'll be out of luck unless you do some fancy AC coupling trickery.
Also, in real life you won't get 5V out from most opamps when they are fed +5V DC. The max output will be 5V - 0.7V (one diode drop) = 4.3V unless they are of rail-to-rail type which can go full swing.
In short: Get a bipolar supply to be safe.
VFD in MB6582?
in Parts Questions
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Mmm, looks tasty! Wonder what the final pic in the box will look like?
A time lord you say, but the question is: Are you justified and ancient, and do you come from Mu mu land?
Bring back KLF and resurrect Tammy Wynette while you're at it :sorcerer: