jojjelito
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Posts posted by jojjelito
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Ahh, my fuse destructor was my measuring probe so it was possible to explain and not entirely unexpected. If yours did mysteriously go bad you'd better look into replacing the PSU.
Cheers,
J
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Hear hear! The local place didn't stock Pana or Yageo, nor Xicon/Lelon, but whatever floats your boat. What you can do if you are really picky is to match the original's footprint ( duh! - or at least lead spacing) but go higher in terms of voltage it can tolerate and temperature range, let your wallet decide.
So, for starters lets assume we have old-school brand X, 220uF, 25V, 5mm lead spacing (RM), 16mm dia. Today's caps can hold more energy in a smaller volume so we could find a replacement like a hypotethical Panasonic, 220uF, 63V, 5mm RM, 10mm dia, 105°C and less height. All good? Look at the max ripple voltage if you can find it (bigger is better) and the ESR (less is better). Parametric search (Digikey works for me) is your friend here. Yields this. Lifetime 10000hrs@105°C. Much longer at room temp... You'll find that general purpose caps start to drop off and specialist brands dominate the more you tighten your search params, this can be a quality indicator, but will take a larger bite out of your wallet.
Take the article name and search if you want to shop around.
Best of luck!
J
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Hi Guys,
the fuse of the right PSU got broken yesterday after a two hour session. Thank god the box is still alive ... The fuse must have got broken after I had already switched off the PSU .... does it make sense to replace the fuse and carry on ?
I have to do something....
Cheers
orange
Replace away! I destroyed a fuse once during the build of the 6582 in the old style brick. No worries, it was a stupid mistake and no harm done. Pop out, replace and look happy
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Any variant of the DSO203 (very much like the 4-channel offering from Seed) can be gotten of Evilbay for about 180USD.
That's the thing I was alluding to in my post (the older 2-channel offering is far cheaper). I'm not 100% confident that the probe connectors are rugged enough to withstand plugging in and out probes over the years. Also, I haven't tried those. Would be interesting if someone took the fall and tested 'em :devil:
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Sanyo for low ESR electrolythics, otherwise look at Nippon Chemi-con, Rubycon or Jamicon. Please observe that there are very different product lines from different manufacturers. Read up, and examine your needs. PSU capacitors will be optimized to withstand large ripple currents, whereas filter caps will be leaning towards temperature stability. Audio caps are not polarity sensitive etc.
So, Sanyo low ESR are nice, but only good up to 20V. Aha... Looking at max ripple current we'll most likely end up with Rubycon, but this depends on where you shop.
/J
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The Rigol is really good for the price and I see no reason whatsoever to spend more as a hobbyist. It has worked nicely for me so far. Us geeky people with geeky jobs probably have access to better gear at work (or know someone who does) if push comes to shove. Donate old tube scopes to your local high-school or college instead - do something worthwhile for the community
The OLED units are nice as a basic audio display, general fault-findning aid and for rough idea measurements. Don't use them for any kind of precision measurements though. You can get no-name knockoffs with higher advertised (not necessary useful) bandwidth of the Gabotronic scopemeters if you're really cheap - look at evil-bay but caveat emptor, buyer beware. I can't say anything about those selling those things.
J
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I'm going to use one of these linear PSU's.
Can someone give me good advice which one would work right out of the box.?
http://www.emersonin...es/default.aspx
Possible candidates:
SLD-12-6034-05T --> Output1: 5V @ 6A output2: 12V @ 3.4A
http://nl.mouser.com...4jbrRylrA%3D%3D
SLT 12-61818-12T1 --> Output1: 5V @ 6A output2: 12V @ 1.8A output3: -12V @ 1.8A
http://www.remotesit...-1277743896.jsp
Thanks
Fixed that for you! Or well... If you ever intend to build an external filterbox you'll need negative voltage as well. If you're going to run the 6582 stand-alone you'll do fine with either plus a 9VDC regulator inside the 6582 (there will be some heat dissipation in the box, maybe not optimal, but working).
Cheers!
J
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This pinning/connection schema is the same as usual, but omit pins 3, 15 and 16. However, the 6582 apparently runs the display in 4-bit mode so you can also omit pins 7-10 if you run the display with 4-bit mode code.
Hawkeye posted a 4-bit VFD driver that can be hacked into getting the Newhaven to behave. I got sidetracked on this during the server move and holidays, but I intend to post my code as soon as work begins anew and I can get back to this topic.
/J
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Mmm, lovely intro! Then it progresses into Craig Armstrong territory. I like it :)
Cheers
J
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Or rather that as soon as you need to build something you'll need to move on from a bench/lab PSU at one point or another. So, it's kind of a mandatory exercise. Get some thick copper-layer photoresist blank PCBs and etch away. Good for the soul...
But then again: Switcher vs a toroid or worse, a cheapo, vanilla transformer (sometimes those are adequate). It's all down to costs and engineering - there's more than one way to skin a cat (please don't take that literally!).
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Hiya,
As you may have read there's a new core coming out featuring, amongst other things, a USB interface plus other extra goodies. Chances are that something similar to the MB64/MB64E application will be available for this core (using MIOS32 and C-programming) over the old PIC cores using MIOS8 and PIC processor assembler. You'll most likely find programming in C a *lot* easier than assembler.
Take a peek at the programming section in the WIKI, then start installing your toolchain. You'll need MIOS studio for app upload plus basic MIDI testing, a SVN client for version control - this will differ depending on your platform (WIndows, Mac, Linux or other), plus code generation tools like the SDCC compiler and an editor/IDE which again will differ depending on platform.
The toolchain setup is described under the MIOS/programming section of the WIKI under MIOS8 and MIOS32 respectively.
Anyway, your first experiment wil be to try to read and make sense of the source code of your application. Then modify pin declarations and the like to fit your exact hardware setup. Download into your core then troubleshoot til done.
Best of luck!
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Mmm, "pressening" (same in Swedish) or tarpaulin (or Abdeckplane, bâche). Cool idea! Maybe one could score some from a building site or some trucking company for added feel-good factor about recyling stuff? Use a stapling gun
Then have fun with a cutout stencil and some paint to mark your gear.
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Yowza yowza yowza! Looks very nice! Nice to see a case solution in pictures.
Side note - lots of persons seem to have the FS1r. Interesting... We should team up against the world with those superior modules.
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Gosh darn, this is so full of teh winz I can hardly contain myself! Getting female sockets tomorrow arvo just in case.
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Burp!
Many thanks. I never saw the mods section at xlargex. Cool!
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Hmm, if I ever source moar SIDs and feel like making another I'll tack on some Hello Kitty gfx on the panel and use pink LEDs just for kicks
Mr Hawkeye maded you (cookies?) an excellent tutorial to peruse while adding the LEDs. Get some gullwing LEDs or something with legs though - the pure SMD LEDs take forever to solder and give you nasty^H^H^H^H^Hsevere coffee withdrawal syndromes.
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Wow! Sounds real good
Care to share some of your mod details for others to follow?I could figure out how to do most of that out from your list, but I'm lazy
You may already have written about those but the dedicated forum is down until further notice...Cheers!
J
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Hiya,
Hate to rain on your parade but ALBS doesn't carry the DK16-190V3 in green. You can have any color as long as it's white, red, gray or transparent clear/blue/red. A lot of us have used the transparent clear knobs with green LED backlights. Your other alternatives would be to either use acrylic paint on some white ones or order a large amount of custom green knobs - say 1000 or so provided ALBS would listen to you then.
Cheers,
J
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Dude, don't tempt me. Let's see what happens after the holidays...
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Those linear PSUs must be nice, you could almost buy somebody's time to solder up something in an evening for that kind of money. Or get a serious amount of filtering components should noise be problem with the switchers. You'd still need -12 or -5V so the SLD-12-6034 is out unless you're willing to employ some voltage inverting trickery, but then you could roll your own PSU fully instead.
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Well, the Eagle autorouter is next to useless so you didn't miss out there. But, Eagle is very guilty of this 80's button mashing horror. I heard that once you learn it, Eagle can be useful but it ended up being a tedium of TLDR and a buttonfest so I discarded it as fast as I could. Eagle has great functions at a decent price but the interface comes from hell. Modernize bitches!
Instead I went with ExpressPCB, but that's Windows only so that might be a problem for some. I should look at running it virtualized so I don't have to reboot out of Lion.
Still, best of luck!
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It will ´prolly be Eagle Pro - i´ve seen all those magazine ads over the last 15+ years, so why not -
it is another welcome area to learn something, and I still have a little bit of software budget in the company for this year :-)
Edit: wow, really fancy image link :-)
If you have the budget, look at Orcad :) You can get Orcad PCB Designer Pro for around 10000 USD. It's really nice, but you have the nagging feeling that you're shooting at mosquitos with a howitzer while using it
Why is there no EDA/PCB CAD software that doesn't solely rely on half-assed keypresses galore only (á la AutoCAD from medieval times), supports multi-touch gestures when applicable, is cross-platform and comes with integrated simulation (SPICE). There, my shopping list only contains easy demands
Oh, it needs a free viewer other than PDF I can run on my mobile (iOS or Android). Easy. -
Hmm, this is very disco! An interesting side-effect is that it's probably cheaper to use the LPCXPRESSO than the older BLM which was using a special connector...
What's not to like? 2-color LEDs vs full RGB? I think Wackazong used some RGB trick for his MB-Station?
Grrtzz,
/J
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No entries in the hosts file at home, but it still won't direct me the right way. Wonder if my ISP is just slow on updating the DNS? It works at the office oddly enough.
RoboCop
in Songs & Sounds
Posted
Cool drums and use of FM. I like it! Care to tell what's heard and how you made it?
/J