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Antichambre

Programmer
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Posts posted by Antichambre

  1. 43 minutes ago, niles said:

    All working now - Here's my beauty :grin:  Turns out I had a bad cable (my nemesis) for the MIDI8 board. 

    I went with the red/cyan color mix for the LEDs. Keycaps courtesy of @Antichambre . Also, I went with shorter 16mm keycaps for the switches ( mouser 642-1S11-16.0 ) instead of the 19mm from the BOM, I thought those were a bit too wiggly. I had a few self-inflicted hiccups along the way but I'm extremely pleased with how this turned out and the quality and support of the midiphy kit is top notch, of course.

    Cheers!

     

    IMG-4868.JPG

    Well done, if it's not a reused box it's time to smoke a good cigar ;)

  2. 46 minutes ago, weasel said:

    what kind of router & bit did you use to mill the PMMA? not sure the CNC at my fablab is fine enough

    All is made with my cheap and Chinese CNC, but it's a solid one with powerful motors, after it's a question of production and method...
    ...For example, to mill both side of the mask you have to think how you will reverse the material in the exact symmetrical position etc...
    I use 1 tooth bit from 0.8mm to 2mm, speeds depend on the plastic you use, best is cast acrylic. I always use water+soap it avoids plastic melting(not sure of the English word), I put some every 5min with a syringe.
     

    46 minutes ago, weasel said:

    oh bruno if there is any chance you have some pictures of the MASK and WINDOW layer combined with the LEDs stuck through? or any more close up/side shots of the all-layer frontplate. that would be formidable oui oui.

    Everything is disassembled, out of dust in a closed box, I will not work on this for the moment, sorry.
     

    46 minutes ago, weasel said:

    anybbody ever tried filling frontplate LED holes with epoxy or similar?

    Yes I experimented that, with epoxy, I don't know if I used the right method but this was difficult and not a good result. this kind of operation needs the precision of a machine, to respect the right dose with repetitive same movement. By hand  with a syringe I put too much in some holes, not enough in others, difficult to protect the front plate too.

     

    46 minutes ago, weasel said:

    EDIT: epiphany? what if i make a silicone negative of the fully assembled LED ring board, and then cast a theoretically perfect resin/epoxy mask from it? where do i learn about this haha. oh wait. i need a double negative casting shape. prolly all too much effort, i wanna make music not get into plastic manufacturing.

    lol, yes I also thought to adapt a syringe dispenser to my CNC, a lot of work for an hypothetical result :)

  3. Hi guys,

    I don't know the best for your project but I can explain what I did for the OLRE16.

    First is the MASK, it's black PMMA.
    Both sides are milled.
    I let some space between the leds on the pcb to keep some matters between the leds housing. Led size is 1.5x2mm

    On the other side(front side) there's some stripes which will fit inside the translucent PMMA, they will block the light between the leds, between the rings and between the rings and the oleds. .
    Note: the olre16 top pcb(ring) has no component on the top except the leds and the oleds.

    mask_cut.png?raw=1
    In blue are the back leds housing.
    In Red there are the holes.
    In Yellow, some stripes to block the light on the front, those stripes will fit inside the back of the translucent PMMA.
    IMG_0198.jpeg?raw=1

    The second part is the 'WINDOW', in translucent white PMMA, it's a LED special one, the same I used for the beat led window of the Seqv4+.
    The back part will fit inside the MASK, in other word the base of the WINDOW will receive the MASK's stripes, of course the WINDOW's pipes are in front of the MASK's holes.
    Then the Aluminum front panel comes to finish blocking the light and the pipes of the WINDOW will fit inside the panel, flush the surface.
    IMG_0200.jpeg?raw=1
    Fichier%2025-05-2017%2009%2024%2000.jpeg

    When they are coupled
    IMG_0201.jpeg?raw=1

    When coupled , assembled the thickness without the pipes height(front panel thickness) doesn't exceed 2.5mm
    IMG_0204.jpeg?raw=1
    IMG_0205.jpeg?raw=1

    Voilà! I don't know if it will help you and It's surely an "over-engineered" thing but this is the only solution I found, and it works.

    Best regards
    Bruno

    • Like 2
  4. 21 hours ago, thresholdpeople said:

    I'll enlarge the hole to allow them to fit.

    Don't do that you will remove the painting!!!
    Plastic is smoother than metal it will fit if you respect a 5mm diameter, thickness of the top should be, 1,2 to flush the surface.
     

    21 hours ago, thresholdpeople said:

    but for the white TH LEDs - since they're different than the SMD one originally specified

    I never specified any SMD model, the 5GTH920 hasn't any LED, LEDs have to be ordered separately.

     

    21 hours ago, thresholdpeople said:

    did you need to change the series resistor?

    No.

     

    21 hours ago, thresholdpeople said:

    How did you fixture the acrylic when machining it?

    With some screw.

  5. 1 hour ago, thresholdpeople said:

    Antichambre - your custom mods look fantastic. I'd like to use the same pushbuttons and caps as you. They look really great. Did you have to use a different value resistor to accommodate the different LED?

    1 hour ago, thresholdpeople said:

    I've been scanning through this thread

    Not well ;)

    For the leMec, colors are blue and red with suggested 47 Ohms

    Have a good build!


     

  6. 57 minutes ago, thresholdpeople said:

    Those look great. Are they snap on replacements? 

    Yes they are ALPS stem.
    But all the set are reserved. There was a MOQ, I was obliged to do that bulk to get mine, I've got it now, I already said that's a 'first and last' bulk.

    Best regards
    Bruno

  7. 50 minutes ago, latigid on said:

    The caps are not to my taste, but good for you if you are happy with that look :).

    Yes I like this "polar" style. And it appears a more finished machine for me but like you said it's a question of taste so there's no debate.

    It just misses a huge and ostensible "MIDIbox SEQ v4 +" at the back on the white part to assert the whole ;)

    IMG_0072.jpeg?raw=1

    IMG_0076.jpeg?raw=1

    Best regards
    Bruno

  8. 10 hours ago, weasel said:

     

    yeah so at first i just randomly tried multiplying the result by two and then it was right and i thought "well that's one of these programming things where you just hack a '+1' and then it works" and never find out why.

    but then i found this line

    
    // timers clocked at CPU/2 clock, WS2812 protocol requires 800 kHz (1.25 uS period)

    CPU/2 clock

     

    so it actually adds up. or rather divides up.

     

    There's some prescaler in the RCC registers(Reset and Clock Control) for all peripherals Clock Source. Those registers are also set in mios32_sys.
    For the Timers clock this Prescaler is 2, means Fcpu divided by 2.
    Then you have to take it in account in your calculation... TIMER_PERIOD = (MIOS32_SYS_CPU_FREQUENCY/2) / TIMER_FREQ

    Datasheet is your friend for that ;)

    • Like 1
  9. Inconvenient with this approach is the transfer time, there's no random write access, the whole chain has to be refreshed on each change.
    There's not too much data to send but the NRZ protocol is very slow, for a 64 chained led it needs 4ms for the whole refresh this is already a lot of process for just 64 led, less than 2 rings in your case(36led/ring),
    notes about that ,36 is not a good number to deal with memory, using 2n is always better for coding...


    But this deserves to be tested and could be enough for a dedicated application which has not extra/other heavy processes.

    best regards
    Bruno

     

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