DenDer Posted August 5, 2008 Report Posted August 5, 2008 Hi,At the moment i'm constructing the mbhp pic burner on a piece of exp.board.I've got a question regarding the trimpot.How does this go on the board? When i look at the schedule pdf you've got the 3 pins of the LM317, I*,A*,O*. The trimpot should go between A* and O* but how? There are 3 legs on the trimpot, two on one side and one is solo. I'm figuring that one of the two should come from O* (with a 220 ohm R in between) and the solo one should go to A* and the negative line. The third leg goes to ground. In the pdf it seems that the resisting value of the trimpot is between O* and the negative line. But do i have to connect that leg also to ground after J2?Trimpot.JPG Quote
nILS Posted August 5, 2008 Report Posted August 5, 2008 Pins 1 and 2 of the pot go to (IC1:A and R1), Pin 3 of the pot goes to ground. Quote
DenDer Posted August 5, 2008 Author Report Posted August 5, 2008 Okay just downloaded the pdf for the trimpot(piher pt10) and the markings are as followed: solo pin is the wiper(S*), the two other pins are marked initial(A*) and final(E*).http://www.piher-nacesa.com/pdf/12-PT10v03.pdfSo the wiper(S*) is connected to R1(220 ohm) and the final(E*) to IC1:A. The initial(A*) goes to ground.Is this about right? Quote
nILS Posted August 5, 2008 Report Posted August 5, 2008 The middle pin is the wiper (s) is connected to the final (e) AND IC1:A AND R1. All of these 4 pins are on the same net and hence connected together.inital (a) goes to ground. Quote
DenDer Posted August 5, 2008 Author Report Posted August 5, 2008 Okay thats clear...thnx nILS :D I'll report again after testing........i love these puzzles. Quote
DenDer Posted August 6, 2008 Author Report Posted August 6, 2008 Well just glued the components to the exp.board and the green light lights up ;Dbut........i'm not getting anything near 12,5V......at the lowest point its about 0,60V and at the highest about 5,7V... :-\ that's not good.....So i'm wondering...instead of a 1N4002 i used a 1N4007....does that matter?And the trimpot is a 2k5 but i ordered 2k2...does that matter?On the 5V line i measure only 4,25V.What am i doing wrong here???But at least the green light lit up ;D ;D ;D Quote
drboom Posted August 6, 2008 Report Posted August 6, 2008 b.ut........i'm not getting anything near 12,5V......at the lowest point its about 0,60V and at the highest about 5,7V... :-\ that's not good....And the trimpot is a 2k5 but i ordered 2k2...does that matter?1. check your regulator orientations. its probably backwards. that fixed the same issue for me. 2. im using a 2K TP in mine with no issues. Quote
DenDer Posted August 6, 2008 Author Report Posted August 6, 2008 Okay good you mentioned the regulator. Did some background work and came to the conclusion that a 'normal' LM317, which i'm using, has a different pinout then the LZ version. Correct me if i'm wrong.......But i might think that you're right. Gonna turn it around and get back to ya'll..... Quote
DenDer Posted August 6, 2008 Author Report Posted August 6, 2008 Just swapped the LM317 and ihaaaa 12V (one 9V battery is low) :oSo good voltages now 8)....Thnx DrBoom you're right ;)......got the LM the other way around so this solved my problem to.........it's not quite finished my pic burner but good voltages are always nice. Quote
drboom Posted August 6, 2008 Report Posted August 6, 2008 So i'm wondering...instead of a 1N4002 i used a 1N4007....does that matter?the higher the number, the higher the volts. i believe the 007 can do 1Kvolts, where the 001 does 50. However higher voltage diodes take slightly longer to turn around the current flow. In this case the voltage across the regulator will go higher before the diode actually conducts. will prob make the reg run hotter i guess. just my 2c, id get this confirmed though as most of my electronics knowledge is derived from midibox. Quote
DenDer Posted August 6, 2008 Author Report Posted August 6, 2008 I thought it had something to do with the amperage. At least that's what they told me. Like 4002 is 2A and 4007 is 7A.edit: you're right again with the voltages. But isn't it the same as with elco's? You can use a 400V cap for a 12V application, everything above the appropiate voltage isn't needed. Don't know if the same counts for diodes though. Quote
nILS Posted August 6, 2008 Report Posted August 6, 2008 I don't know how much the voltage drop differs on the different diodes, but I've used different ones in all osrt of layouts and never had any problems.Btw: "Building mbph Burner" - What's this "mbph" you are talking about? ;) Quote
DenDer Posted August 6, 2008 Author Report Posted August 6, 2008 Don't know actually...MBPH ??? ??? Maybe a new degree of studies ??? ??? MBPHd(ender) ;D Quote
stryd_one Posted August 6, 2008 Report Posted August 6, 2008 It's for building synths for making acid techno. Quote
DenDer Posted August 6, 2008 Author Report Posted August 6, 2008 Phiiiiiieeuuuuw(wiping forehead) then i'm building the right things :o at least ::).........yeah i think so ???But i thought i was building a microwave........to cook up some basslines ;) Quote
DenDer Posted August 8, 2008 Author Report Posted August 8, 2008 So just finished up the burner and everything seems fine. :)1. At start the burner is recognized. :D2. On the Vdd test the yellow light goes on and the voltages are ok on the pins. ;D3. Except on the Vpp test the red light goes on but burns faintly and i'm not getting good voltages. Way to low as a matter of fact. So i measured the voltage at the C pin of the BC547 (which i'm using) and its to low to.What is happening here?When Vpp is of i'm still measuring voltage on the line and not 0V. >:(4. Clock and data behave normal. :POkay just checked the board and one resistor isn't placed right.......gonna change that and report again later. But there is life in my burner.Anybody any answers? Quote
DenDer Posted August 8, 2008 Author Report Posted August 8, 2008 So just checked that resisitor but its good in place so something else was(read was) wrong.Recently i've bought BC547's....at least thats what i thought and ordered....but it seems they are BC557's so no good for this project. Swapped it for the right BC547 and everything is working just fine.Vpp test is right, Vdd test is right, clock and data voltages are right, so i have a working MBHP Burner.Now for the next step..... getting new batteries. ;D Quote
DenDer Posted August 8, 2008 Author Report Posted August 8, 2008 Okay guys i need some help.Everything works as it should be but......i'm not getting the same voltage on the MCLR# pin as i adjustedat the TP. At the TP i measure 12.49V and at the MCLR# pin only 8.79VHow is that possible?If switched from batteries to a 18V transformer but that shouldn't matter right? Quote
DenDer Posted August 8, 2008 Author Report Posted August 8, 2008 Okay the next things occur when the burner is connected to the computer.When i activate Vpp the red lights goes on and off but after a few seconds it lights up again.Even when the burner isn't connected to the comp the red light burns faintly.EDIT: red light problem fixed...forgot to connect both pins(4&5) of IC3 with 1n4148 ::)But still not getting 12,5V at MCLR# pin. Quote
DenDer Posted August 9, 2008 Author Report Posted August 9, 2008 Yes yes y'all its working!!!!So resolved the problem of the missing voltage with some guys in th chat(thnx nILS & Moogah). Had my BC the other way around. Its a bottom view of the pinnig on the burner pdf.But i'm happy now.....my burner is working. ;D Quote
DenDer Posted August 9, 2008 Author Report Posted August 9, 2008 So today i've succesfully burned the bootstraploader in my 18F4685's. First i did some initial tests with the old 18F452. Succesfully did a hex read out from the 18F452 so the burner is working properly.Sidenote: I'm using the P18 software from www.sprut.de which is a good and easy program but......if you have to burn more than one pic you have to close the program after you succesfully burned one pic. For the next pic, close and reopen P18. Otherwise it won't succesfully burn the next chip.Next step: Installing MIOS thru midi on the core. Quote
DenDer Posted August 10, 2008 Author Report Posted August 10, 2008 Okay some questions.....1. First i burned the bootstraploader in the pic. That is this file : pic18f4685\burner\bootloader_v1_2_pic18f4685.hex I did this for both pics.2. So now i'm ready to put the pic in the core and upload this .hex file : pic18f4685\midi\mios_v1_9f_pic18f4685.hexBut where do you set the ID header then?Or just use the Change_ ID after to make one the slave, since both are burned as the default 0x00???After i've done this i'm ready to upload the application file of SIDv2....right?? Quote
nILS Posted August 11, 2008 Report Posted August 11, 2008 The answer to your question is in the readme.txt of the change_id application. Read it, and when you find the answer please post it here ;D Quote
DenDer Posted August 11, 2008 Author Report Posted August 11, 2008 You mean this answer............. o open the Makefile (or make.bat file) and change the ID settings for your needs o build a new .hex file, see also http://www.ucapps.de/howto_tools_gpasm.html (!!! THIS IS AN OBSOLETE PAGE!!!!!) o upload this project like described under: http://www.ucapps.de/mios_bootstrap.html -> the MIOS bootloader will get active for 2 seconds -> thereafter this program will be started -> the MIOS bootloader will be started again, but now with the new ID settings -> the LCD will show the new ID header (if connected)I think i'm getting it. Quote
nILS Posted August 12, 2008 Report Posted August 12, 2008 Well, I was referring to this part:Required steps for a proper ID initialization: o ensure that the MIOS bootloader has already been programmed into the PIC. You should see an upload request after power-on (see also: http://www.ucapps.de/howto_debug_midi.html) o upload the most recent MIOS version like described under: http://www.ucapps.de/mios_bootstrap.html[/code]DenDer, again good spot on the obsolete page: "Same procedure as last year, Ms. Sophie" ;) Quote
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