Matrix12x Posted June 28, 2009 Report Share Posted June 28, 2009 Has anyone taken the panel from the Pactek case and made the front panel with this yet?I was looking for lessons learned or recommendations. I printed out the FPD file and use it as a guide for drilling. My 1 yr old was helping in the photo below.http://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/h3SVi3vZ4EoKIQCUV3NX7w?feat=directlink What is the best way to cut the LCD hole without a milling machine?I was thinking about getting this painted black at the paint-shop at my job and maybe laser marked when done. I'll probably have to tell them it's for a piece of test equipment for my bench. ;) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
j00lz Posted June 29, 2009 Report Share Posted June 29, 2009 Hi,While I haven't yet started work on the MB-6582 panel I have been thinking about it for a bit... The Front Panel Express panels are very nice but outside my budget.With a decent column-mounted drill, it should be reasonably straightforward to drill all the required holes in the aluminium panel that comes with the PACTEC case.For the LCD hole, I had a look around for square drill bits but no luck... ;)An alternative that has worked for me in the past is to drill a hole big enough to accomodate a fine-toothed jigsaw blade, then use that to cut the straight lines of the LCD cut out. With a steady hand (and possibly a bit of filing if required), it is possible to get pretty good results.As for the labeling, I have had some pretty good results in the past using transparent ink-jet compatible label material (such as http://www.officeworks.com.au/retail/products/Office-Supplies/Paper-Labels-and-Envelopes/Labels/Inkjet-Printer-Labels/Clear-Inkjet-Labels/AV936008). Colours other than black tend to let a bit of light through, which is reflected by the brushed aluminium of the panel to good effect. A clear coat of sprayable PU varnish on top ensures good longevity. This technique also allows you to get quite creative with the use of colours. Think of it as the poor man's Lazertran... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Matrix12x Posted June 29, 2009 Author Report Share Posted June 29, 2009 The transparency sounds cool and it will allow for graphics pretty easy.I was afraid with the jigsaw of making it too home made looking. although I could probably come up with a jig and a fence or two. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nILS Posted June 30, 2009 Report Share Posted June 30, 2009 As j00lz said, drilling the holes is not a big problem, even the LCD cutout is well doable with a bit of filing and time ;) For labelling I sometimes use laminated printouts glued to the panel. That works pretty well, the only hard/time consuming thing is to get the holes to look nice.You can see my go at it here: http://www.flickr.com/photos/34559421@N02/sets/72157619960055010/Quick overview:Print out the artwork and glue it on the panel, drill the holes:Put double-sided sticky tape on it:Stick the laminated panel printout on it, and cut the holes into it:Mount the components:Done: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fussylizard Posted June 30, 2009 Report Share Posted June 30, 2009 The transparency sounds cool and it will allow for graphics pretty easy.I was afraid with the jigsaw of making it too home made looking. although I could probably come up with a jig and a fence or two.I believe I've seen LCD bezels that might work *if* you're mounting the LCD where the LCD protrudes through the hole. You could make a rough-ish cut, then fit the bezel around. Or even make a bezel yourself out of wood or plastic with a hobby saw and small miter box (X-Acto makes one).For the MB-6582 PCB, the LCD is mounted a few mm below the front panel so things are not so easy. Using a jigsaw with a fence of some sort is probably best, or even a small hack saw and a bit of filing. You can also try nippers (http://www.curiousinventor.com/store/product/91 or similar). There's also some DIY metalworking videos at http://www.curiousinventor.com/guides that I just noticed. I've not watched them yet (not during work!) but there may be some interesting info.If you have a drill press you could try buying a cheap end mill and build a fence of some sort to guide the workpiece along and try to cut it that way. And end mill looks like a drill bit but cuts from the side. You might be able to use a router of some sort to do something similar. (If you have a Dremel tool they have a router attachment that might work.) If you decide to go the end mill route PM me if you need help picking an end mill since there are about a zillion variations. I have a small milling machine so I'm somewhat familiar with them.One final idea would be to get a piece of rigid plastic that forms an L shape (say 1mm x 3mm) and sort of make your own bezel that glues to the front panel. If you put a nice 45 degree cut on each corner it might look rather nice and cover up any rough cuts.Good luck! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Matrix12x Posted July 1, 2009 Author Report Share Posted July 1, 2009 when drilling aluminum on a drill press what speed should I set the drill for? I primarily have drilled wood with this press so far.so when using the same speed, I made a very chattered looking 1/4 inch hole. any advice is welcome. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nILS Posted July 1, 2009 Report Share Posted July 1, 2009 The harder the material is the slower the drill needs to be :-) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Matrix12x Posted July 4, 2009 Author Report Share Posted July 4, 2009 So I dropped the speed of my drill and what a difference!!nice clean no chatter holes. I should have this drilled by the end of the weekend.Thanks for the pointers everyone. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fussylizard Posted July 4, 2009 Report Share Posted July 4, 2009 Cutting fluid *might* also help, but with the thin metal for a front plate it probably won't matter. FWIW WD-40 works great as cutting fluid on aluminum.Also, if you clamp the piece you're drilling onto another piece of aluminum so you can "drill through" the front plate into the bottom piece you should get a cleaner bottom edge on the front plate. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Matrix12x Posted July 24, 2009 Author Report Share Posted July 24, 2009 I completed the rear panel and now I am 90% done drilling all the holes on the front panel. Only the LCD hole left to cut.I used the jig saw to cut the fan hole and the 25 pin D connector hole. They looked kind of cruddy, but a bit of filing and sanding and they are ok. I had the paint shop at work paint the rear panel. I'll post pictures soon. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wilba Posted July 24, 2009 Report Share Posted July 24, 2009 WD-40 is not a lubricant. Just thought I'd mention that... Whatever lubrication occurs is purely accidental ;)FWIW my Dad cuts stainless steel with a very slow drill speed and uses lard as a lubricant. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Futureman Posted July 24, 2009 Report Share Posted July 24, 2009 Lard.. hehe.. (one of my favourite words)You have to watch out with stainless as it work hardens.. keeping it cool is pretty important.... hence why coolant is traditionally used..(Pretty much water & oil & detergent)Sharp drill bits and correct drill speed is important, as is moving up through drill sizes.ie start with a centre punch, then say 3mm, then 6mm, then 10mm, then 13mm etc..Don't drill a 13mm hole straight away, which would be asking for a not very accurately placed hole, and also the hole might not be very neat.As you drill bigger holes, drill more slowly..A drill press is great for accurate holes (not as likely to drift while you are drilling) but i've done most of my stuff without one.I've got a dremel, and for holes and the like, it's generally crap.. A good small file beats it every time.My massive 2 cents.RegardsMike Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Matrix12x Posted July 31, 2009 Author Report Share Posted July 31, 2009 I drilled my panel, I think it looks like 90% of what I would of liked. some holes ended up a little off. I may have to open up 1 or 2 of the button holes. I painted it a flat black in the paint shop at work and that looks great. I will post pics when I finish things off a little better.Thanks for all the great hints like slowing the speed of the drill press and stepping up drill sizes for a cleaner cut. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Matrix12x Posted August 1, 2009 Author Report Share Posted August 1, 2009 Here is a picture of the panel I drilled:http://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/AsbEERCzXIoSDPBVnrp4mg?feat=directlinkA little wavy on those LEDs on the left, but heck, alot cheaper than Frontpanel express. ;-) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Futureman Posted August 2, 2009 Report Share Posted August 2, 2009 well done, very brave!You could possibly make a laminated overlay or print a face on clear plastic and stick it to it's face.This would cover up the few wavy holes etc..(Unless thats what you have planned?)RegardsMike Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Matrix12x Posted August 2, 2009 Author Report Share Posted August 2, 2009 Thanks. :-)I think I am going to use a clear plastic overlay, although I am afraid that cutting the holes in the laminate will look even crappier. Is the Avery type stuff ok? Is it available in only a few sheets?I just dry fit the control PCB and found I definitely had to open some of the button holes with the next size drill bit to allow for my off center drilling.Has anyone else drilled a panel at home for their MB8562? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fussylizard Posted August 2, 2009 Report Share Posted August 2, 2009 One more machining tip I should mention: you should use a punch to mark the center of each of your holes before you drill. A punch will leave a small dimple that will keep the drill bit from "wandering" before the cutting edge bites. Here's a useful video: http://www.curiousinventor.com/guides/Metal_Working They show a punch being used starting at 3:06. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Matrix12x Posted August 8, 2009 Author Report Share Posted August 8, 2009 I just started epoxying the standoffs to the panel. I should have this mostly finished in a day or so. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DrBunsen Posted August 10, 2009 Report Share Posted August 10, 2009 If you're using clear laminate, you won't need to cut any holes for the LEDs. I think that's what Futureman was getting at :) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Matrix12x Posted August 11, 2009 Author Report Share Posted August 11, 2009 Do you mean that the LEDs would not protrude through the panel?Also, I just found my first mistake. Painting the backside of the panel. The JB welded standoffs peel paint if any pressure is placed upon them. I just had to replace half of them tonight. Now I am JB welding right to the aluminum, eliminating any paint in the areas I have to attach. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Matrix12x Posted August 15, 2009 Author Report Share Posted August 15, 2009 Panel mounted, LEDs being soldered tomorrow. I can't wait, I am in the home stretch for a completed MB6582!!!!!!!The base PCB has ben put through it's paces and works great!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.