radiotron Posted December 13, 2009 Report Share Posted December 13, 2009 ok so i'm an impatient idiot i didn't have midi out working but midi in worked so i uploaded the rc34 hex to my sammich obviously it froze waiting for the core to respond so i re tried it in manual mode which seemed to work i have this screen now see attachment (sorry mobile phone pic) but none of the buttons or encoder do anything except F2 makes the led's turn off when i push it resoldered it makes no difference any ideas where to check for bad times? all the top and bottom board check points are fine have i bricked the PIC? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TK. Posted December 13, 2009 Report Share Posted December 13, 2009 Upload the setup_sammich_sid.hex file again, this time with Smart mode and bidirectional MIDI IN/OUT connection. The other .hex files won't work correctly with the hardware, as LEDs/Buttons are assigned differently. Best Regards, Thorsten. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
radiotron Posted December 13, 2009 Author Report Share Posted December 13, 2009 hey there can't do the bi directional in/out yet cause my midi out isn't functional i've resoldered the midi out jack and the JMO header and IC2 socket for 6N138 anywhere else to look? thanks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nILS Posted December 13, 2009 Report Share Posted December 13, 2009 Fix the MIDI first out then. One problem at a time. IC2 doesn't have anything to do with the MIDI Out. The only relevant parts for the MIDI out are: JMO (make sure you got the jumper on correctly), R7 and R8 (both 220 Ohms) and the MIDI Out socket. Is the routing in MIOS Studio correct (easy to test by loopoing the MIDI out cable on your MIDI device back to your MIDI In)? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
radiotron Posted December 14, 2009 Author Report Share Posted December 14, 2009 (edited) ok i'm a retard i didn't have MIOS patched in correctly! (fuck i wish i had have got this right yesterday! GRR) but now when i try to do the "smart" hex upload i get Received error cod 0B: MIDI IN Overrun Error Aborting after 16 errors so have i fragged the PIC?? help! edit this time it finsished but with tons of errors "Upload of 75776 bytes completed after 89.652s (0.8256625 kb/s)" now F2 and the "up" buttons reboot the sammich!! bah! Edited December 14, 2009 by radiotron Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Futureman Posted December 14, 2009 Report Share Posted December 14, 2009 Don't lose sleep over frying the pic, it is pretty much impossible to fry. (Unless you really f@#ked up the soldering.) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nILS Posted December 14, 2009 Report Share Posted December 14, 2009 What midi device are you using (ie is in the blacklist on the wiki)? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
radiotron Posted December 14, 2009 Author Report Share Posted December 14, 2009 (edited) it's a generic USB to midi cable thing (i assume it's the same as the one on the list from HK ebay) waiting on a firewire card in the mail then will try out with my new MOTU ultralite will see how that goes (the whole reason i bought the generic USB midi was it was easier than trying to get my 001 midi drivers to play nice with cubase!) Edited December 14, 2009 by radiotron Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
radiotron Posted December 16, 2009 Author Report Share Posted December 16, 2009 ok so i ended up using my MOTU and macbook to do the hex dump (worked great once i found that java midi patch!!) SO now the buttons do nothing (except F2 which toggles some of the LEDS on and off) what should i be looking for now? all the grounds around the buttons seem fine... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Futureman Posted December 16, 2009 Report Share Posted December 16, 2009 ok so i ended up using my MOTU and macbook to do the hex dump (worked great once i found that java midi patch!!) SO now the buttons do nothing (except F2 which toggles some of the LEDS on and off) what should i be looking for now? all the grounds around the buttons seem fine... Which Hex file are you uploading? The one Wilba sent you? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
radiotron Posted December 16, 2009 Author Report Share Posted December 16, 2009 yeah the one wilba attached to the email Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wilba Posted December 16, 2009 Report Share Posted December 16, 2009 Still sounds like a corrupted upload... although it's possible it could be hardware related, the fact that you had earlier troubles uploading suggests the firmware isn't 100% good. Please confirm you got zero errors uploading using MIOS Studio with "Use feedback from core" and all the settings from the build guide. I suggest you switch now to using the latest release (RC34) so we all are on the same page. (Let's rule out your email app corrupted the hex file I emailed you). Check that the heatsink isn't touching any of the pins under the control surface PCB. It's best to rule that out now :) Then start searching for hardware problems... some bad soldering near the 74HC165 ICs might be the cause... incorrectly aligned resistor networks, etc. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
v4 Posted December 16, 2009 Report Share Posted December 16, 2009 (edited) I suggest you switch now to using the latest release (RC34) so we all are on the same page. (Let's rule out your email app corrupted the hex file I emailed you). Ah...maybe this is related to my issue as well. I'm using RC33 as this was the last emailed. I assume 34 is good to go for sammich now? Thanks, -nick Edited December 16, 2009 by v4 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TK. Posted December 16, 2009 Report Share Posted December 16, 2009 Ah...maybe this is related to my issue as well. I'm using RC33 as this was the last emailed. I assume 34 is good to go for sammich now? Yes! Best Regards, Thorsten. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
radiotron Posted December 17, 2009 Author Report Share Posted December 17, 2009 ok so i'm on the rc34 version of sammich hex still no dice the leads aren't touching the heatsink and i've resoldered the two IC sockets and resistor networks are facing the correct way how do i test the resistor networks? what else should i look for? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wilba Posted December 17, 2009 Report Share Posted December 17, 2009 I will get my slave to write a custom test application which will show the switch states on the LCD. Then you can know if the problem is really hardware or just specific to the MIDIbox SID app. SLAVE! Come here! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
radiotron Posted December 17, 2009 Author Report Share Posted December 17, 2009 wilba i need to buy you many beers! (or your slave) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wilba Posted December 17, 2009 Report Share Posted December 17, 2009 The slave isn't around :( In the meantime, you can use this app: http://www.ucapps.de/mios/ain64_din128_dout128_v2c.zip It will show you the state of the switches under "DIN". You should see events when you press and release switches... i.e. pressing the first select button will show "5*" when it's down and "5o" when it's released. DIN assignments for sammichSID look like this: (13/14) 5 6 7 8 1 11 9 4 3 2 12 10 [/code] Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
radiotron Posted December 17, 2009 Author Report Share Posted December 17, 2009 (edited) ok i'm not sure how to use this app properly i get a screen AIN DIN DOUT 57: 0 128o 1o not sure how to navigate to DIN but the buttons still do nothing (tho the LEDs don't turn on and off now!) if i push MENU the AIN value goes apeshit for a bit then settles on a random number edit so i can kinda stop and start the AIN crazy by apply a bit of pressure beside the header next to the LCD or by touching the standoffs hmmmm... Edited December 17, 2009 by radiotron Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wilba Posted December 17, 2009 Report Share Posted December 17, 2009 There's no "navigate to DIN". The text under DIN should change as you press buttons or turn the encoder, it's showing the state of the DIN modules (the 74HC165 pins). Ignore the AIN and DOUT. The AIN bit is showing you the state of analog inputs which are not connected and thus random. You might have some bad soldering in the J8/J9 header (the header that connects the two PCBs). Check the solder joints on both sides. Check that there are no shorts between the pins. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nILS Posted December 17, 2009 Report Share Posted December 17, 2009 Here's a more noobie friendly CS Test app :)sammichCSTest.hex Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
radiotron Posted December 18, 2009 Author Report Share Posted December 18, 2009 (edited) ok so i loaded this test hex i get this pattern flashing: the two outer vertical rows light up together then top right LED, top left LED, middle rightmost LED, middle leftmost LED, bottom right LED, bottom left LED is this a good thing?? Edited December 18, 2009 by radiotron Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nILS Posted December 18, 2009 Report Share Posted December 18, 2009 This is what you should get. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
radiotron Posted December 18, 2009 Author Report Share Posted December 18, 2009 ok mine isn't doing that! is it ok to trim the J1 headers on the top board? or are they long for strength? it's pretty hard to get the iron in there as is Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wilba Posted December 19, 2009 Report Share Posted December 19, 2009 It's OK to trim the headers on the top of the CS PCB, but you shouldn't need to do this... there is plenty of room on either side to put the soldering iron tip. The fact that you're getting a different LED pattern and buttons don't work suggest that something is wrong with the connection between the PCBs. So perhaps you should check there are no shorts between the pins on the J1 header of the CS PCB. Note that most of the pins are in pairs connected to the same track (RC, SC, Vd, Vs). It's quite possible that shorts between RC, SC, SO and SI might be causing your problems. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.