sammich problems

[radiotron]

ok so i'm an impatient idiot

i didn't have midi out working but midi in worked so i uploaded the rc34 hex to my sammich

obviously it froze waiting for the core to respond

so i re tried it in manual mode which seemed to work

i have this screen now see attachment (sorry mobile phone pic)

but none of the buttons or encoder do anything

except F2 makes the led's turn off when i push it

resoldered it makes no difference

any ideas where to check for bad times?

all the top and bottom board check points are fine

have i bricked the PIC?

[TK.]

Upload the setup_sammich_sid.hex file again, this time with Smart mode and bidirectional MIDI IN/OUT connection.

The other .hex files won't work correctly with the hardware, as LEDs/Buttons are assigned differently.

Best Regards, Thorsten.

[radiotron]

hey there

can't do the bi directional in/out yet cause my midi out isn't functional

i've resoldered the midi out jack and the JMO header and IC2 socket for 6N138

anywhere else to look?

thanks

[nILS]

Fix the MIDI first out then. One problem at a time.

IC2 doesn't have anything to do with the MIDI Out. The only relevant parts for the MIDI out are: JMO (make sure you got the jumper on correctly), R7 and R8 (both 220 Ohms) and the MIDI Out socket.

Is the routing in MIOS Studio correct (easy to test by loopoing the MIDI out cable on your MIDI device back to your MIDI In)?

[radiotron]

ok i'm a retard

i didn't have MIOS patched in correctly!

(fuck i wish i had have got this right yesterday! GRR)

but now when i try to do the "smart" hex upload i get

Received error cod 0B: MIDI IN

Overrun Error

Aborting after 16 errors

so have i fragged the PIC??

help!

edit

this time it finsished but with tons of errors

"Upload of 75776 bytes completed after

89.652s (0.8256625 kb/s)"

now F2 and the "up" buttons reboot the sammich!! bah!

Edited December 14, 2009 by radiotron

[Futureman]

Don't lose sleep over frying the pic, it is pretty much impossible to fry.

(Unless you really f@#ked up the soldering.)

[nILS]

What midi device are you using (ie is in the blacklist on the wiki)?

[radiotron]

it's a generic USB to midi cable thing (i assume it's the same as the one on the list from HK ebay)

waiting on a firewire card in the mail then will try out with my new MOTU ultralite

will see how that goes

(the whole reason i bought the generic USB midi was it was easier than trying to get my 001 midi drivers

to play nice with cubase!)

Edited December 14, 2009 by radiotron

[radiotron]

ok so i ended up using my MOTU and macbook to do the hex dump

(worked great once i found that java midi patch!!)

SO

now the buttons do nothing (except F2 which toggles some of the LEDS on and off)

what should i be looking for now?

all the grounds around the buttons seem fine...

[Futureman]

ok so i ended up using my MOTU and macbook to do the hex dump

(worked great once i found that java midi patch!!)

SO

now the buttons do nothing (except F2 which toggles some of the LEDS on and off)

what should i be looking for now?

all the grounds around the buttons seem fine...

Which Hex file are you uploading? The one Wilba sent you?

[radiotron]

yeah the one wilba attached to the email

[Wilba]

Still sounds like a corrupted upload... although it's possible it could be hardware related, the fact that you had earlier troubles uploading suggests the firmware isn't 100% good. Please confirm you got zero errors uploading using MIOS Studio with "Use feedback from core" and all the settings from the build guide.

I suggest you switch now to using the latest release (RC34) so we all are on the same page. (Let's rule out your email app corrupted the hex file I emailed you).

Check that the heatsink isn't touching any of the pins under the control surface PCB. It's best to rule that out now :)

Then start searching for hardware problems... some bad soldering near the 74HC165 ICs might be the cause... incorrectly aligned resistor networks, etc.

[v4]

I suggest you switch now to using the latest release (RC34) so we all are on the same page. (Let's rule out your email app corrupted the hex file I emailed you).

Ah...maybe this is related to my issue as well. I'm using RC33 as this was the last emailed. I assume 34 is good to go for sammich now?

Thanks,

-nick

Edited December 16, 2009 by v4

[TK.]

Ah...maybe this is related to my issue as well. I'm using RC33 as this was the last emailed. I assume 34 is good to go for sammich now?

Yes!

Best Regards, Thorsten.

[radiotron]

ok so i'm on the rc34 version of sammich hex

still no dice

the leads aren't touching the heatsink

and i've resoldered the two IC sockets and resistor networks are facing the correct way

how do i test the resistor networks?

what else should i look for?

[Wilba]

I will get my slave to write a custom test application which will show the switch states on the LCD.

Then you can know if the problem is really hardware or just specific to the MIDIbox SID app.

SLAVE! Come here!

[radiotron]

wilba i need to buy you many beers!

(or your slave)

[Wilba]

The slave isn't around :(

In the meantime, you can use this app:

http://www.ucapps.de/mios/ain64_din128_dout128_v2c.zip

It will show you the state of the switches under "DIN".

You should see events when you press and release switches...

i.e. pressing the first select button will show "5*" when it's down and "5o" when it's released.

DIN assignments for sammichSID look like this:

                  (13/14) 



5  6  7  8  1     11   9

   4  3  2        12  10

[/code]

[radiotron]

ok i'm not sure how to use this app properly

i get a screen

AIN DIN DOUT

57: 0 128o 1o

not sure how to navigate to DIN

but the buttons still do nothing (tho the LEDs don't turn on and off now!)

if i push MENU the AIN value goes apeshit for a bit then settles on a random number

edit

so i can kinda stop and start the AIN crazy by apply a bit of pressure beside the header next to the LCD

or by touching the standoffs hmmmm...

Edited December 17, 2009 by radiotron

[Wilba]

There's no "navigate to DIN".

The text under DIN should change as you press buttons or turn the encoder, it's showing the state of the DIN modules (the 74HC165 pins).

Ignore the AIN and DOUT. The AIN bit is showing you the state of analog inputs which are not connected and thus random.

You might have some bad soldering in the J8/J9 header (the header that connects the two PCBs). Check the solder joints on both sides. Check that there are no shorts between the pins.

[nILS]

Here's a more noobie friendly CS Test app :)

sammichCSTest.hex

[radiotron]

ok so i loaded this test hex

i get this pattern flashing:

the two outer vertical rows light up together

then top right LED, top left LED, middle rightmost LED, middle leftmost LED,

bottom right LED, bottom left LED

is this a good thing??

Edited December 18, 2009 by radiotron

[nILS]

This is what you should get.

[radiotron]

ok mine isn't doing that!

is it ok to trim the J1 headers on the top board?

or are they long for strength?

it's pretty hard to get the iron in there as is

[Wilba]

It's OK to trim the headers on the top of the CS PCB, but you shouldn't need to do this... there is plenty of room on either side to put the soldering iron tip.

The fact that you're getting a different LED pattern and buttons don't work suggest that something is wrong with the connection between the PCBs. So perhaps you should check there are no shorts between the pins on the J1 header of the CS PCB. Note that most of the pins are in pairs connected to the same track (RC, SC, Vd, Vs). It's quite possible that shorts between RC, SC, SO and SI might be causing your problems.