mbSEQ panels by julianf

[julianf]

Some will have noticed that ive been about these parts a little more often just recently : )

The reason for the radio silence was a drawn out relocation, and then quite a while recently battling with technical issues.

Anyhow, i posted these photos in another thread -

This was only a test panel, as i needed to check the dimensions of the panel. The datasheet for the desktop case is a fair way out on some of the dimensions, hence the need to take real-world 'actual' measurements, and then cut the test plate.

So, the top is now confirmed. I have just engraved a test for the rear panel, and will cut that over the weekend.

This is the set that i have cut -

The rear panel is basically TKs file, but with the typeface altered to match in with the top panel, and the addition of the Sync port between the last midi and the BLM.

I want to get the rear finished before talking pricing, but its looking like the whole set (top and rear) will come in cheaper than buying just the top from FP..

Anyhow, i guess this is pre-warning. They are on their way (eventually) so, i guess, time to start thinking about it if youre after one : )

[sonicwarrior]

Will you offer matching display protectors/case or what they are called in English? (e.g. made from Acryl)

[julianf]

Will you offer matching display protectors/case or what they are called in English? (e.g. made from Acryl)

Probably not this time. But there is thought behind this -

The panel you see in the photo is 1.5mm thick. Same thickness as the mb6582 units (dont worry - its plenty thick enough for strength!)

With the 1.5mm metal the edge of the cut that you see around the screen is so much less (well exactly 1/2!) so (with the mb6582 units) i have suggested to people that they cut a screen themselves, with a hacksaw (cheap option!) as the whole part can then affix to the rear of the panel, and none of the edges of the acrylic of it would be visible.

If you profile an acrylic part to 'slot' into the hole in the metal, the edges of the acrylic are right where you are looking. So they need to be clean. But, if the whole part is under the metal, the edges are out of sight - so it becomes a DIY part once again.

Having a large 'step' of 3.0mm on a thicker panel, and then an acrylic screen below may look a bit 'odd' but with the thinner metal, i think that the DIY option explained above reduces both the complication and expense for the end user.

note -

of course, there is nothing to stop anyone getting an acrylic part profiled to match if they want to - indeed, they can try the option above first, and then, if they dont like it, go to the trouble and expense of buying a profiled part (but i doubt that many would! : )

note #2 -

the 1.5 metal is availible in many more colours / finishes than 3.0 too. as above, the 1.5 is what i use for the mb5682 units, so any colour / finish that you have seen those in is possible for the mbseq unit. my personal unit (if i ever have time to build it!) will have a matt red panel, in a black case, with black panel hardware : )

[dnode]

Me likes a lot! Me wants!

[julianf]

Somone has said to me that they are finding it difficult finding the power jack / switch (?) that TK used for his build.

As i have not yet milled the panel, i can change the cut-outs for these.

Is the part TK used (i do not know what it is) hard to find? Would the panel be better with a standard 12.6mm circular cut-out for any number of the barrel connectors (most companies seem to make them for a 12.6mm cut out)

My 'local' place sells these - http://www.rapidonline.com/Cables-Connectors/DC-Power-socket-for-panel-cut-out-12-6mm-63543

...but i have checked that 'branded' options are available with the same cut-out hole. The 12.6mm dimension seems common enough.

Im thinking a cut-out for a small round rocker switch too, for example -

http://www.rapidonline.com/Electronic-Components/SPST-Snap-in-rocker-switch-71446

SCI parts are available all over, so i do not think there would be issues three.

If TKs choice of parts are available, then i have no desire to change the holes at all - it is less work for me to keep them as-is, however, it is horrible not being able to find some obscure part for a build, so i always try to cut for the most available options.

Can anyone give me feedback on this?

Thank you,

Julian

[gtxdude]

Julian,

i find that these parts work fine with the TK back pannel:

The power switch:

http://www.allelectr...E-SWITCH/1.html

The DC power receptacle (2.1 mm):

http://www.allelectr...WER-JACK/1.html

I used both of these part numbers in my build so i know that they work. This is how i mounted them (look to the right at the top of the perf board):

All Electronics is located in Van Nys, CA in the USA. I have bought from them for years; their prices are great and their service is too.

However, I find the idea of converting them to round holes opens up a lot of possibilities for alternative parts, and you dont have to fiddle with spacers, drilling holes in the bottom and fabricating a perf board to mount them on.

HTH

Gtx

Edited November 16, 2012 by gtxdude

[Altitude]

For anyone that will be powering off mains (or plans on running off DC or USB), one thing I recommend is to use a DPDT rocker switch. Wire each side as a mirror image to the other for power from USB or the mains transformer, this way you can ONLY use one or the other. I just used a generic power entry module (the one with the switch and IEC connector) and just replace the SPST switch with a DPDT one. All the ones I've seen use a generic snap in switch that just pops out if you want to change it.

[flip]

Thats a great idea Altitude! Thanks!

I'm the one who suggested alternative parts. An equivalent of the parts Julian linked to should be available from almost any electronic parts supplier, so I think its the best option for everyone.