orange_hand Posted May 2, 2011 Report Share Posted May 2, 2011 Hi guys, I am about to install the two power regulators on the sammichSID base pcb. I was looking for some non conductive heat sink compound as described in the build guide. I have found the following product at maplin (UK): http://www.maplin.co.uk/high-thermal-conductivity-heatsink-compound-33695 Is this the right one ? There is no explicit mention that it is non conductive... Your help is much appreciated ! Cheers Matt Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
talon Posted May 2, 2011 Report Share Posted May 2, 2011 Back in my PC building days I used this stuff called Arctic Silver 'Ceramique', white, non-conductive and worked very well compared to generic stuff on the market (has some micro technology that really seeped into metal surfaces). Could be bought from any PC hardware store. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kristal= Posted May 2, 2011 Report Share Posted May 2, 2011 http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Arctic-Silver-Ceramique-2-5g-Premium-High-Density-Greas-/320682076696?pt=Computing_ComputerComponents_Fans_Heatsinks_SR&hash=item4aaa242a18 worked fine for my sammichSID Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
orange_hand Posted May 2, 2011 Author Report Share Posted May 2, 2011 Hi, I have now ordered the following one, as it was mentioned to be non conductive and I wanted to order from one source (together with some other stuff)... non conductive heat sink compound Thanks for the answers indeed. Cheers orange Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wilba Posted May 3, 2011 Report Share Posted May 3, 2011 I can't understand why the non-conductivity of the heatsinking compound causes so much chatter. I should have just specified "white silicone goo". Actually, I should have just packed a squirt of the stuff in every kit, but I don't know how to pack it. Suggestions? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kristal= Posted May 3, 2011 Report Share Posted May 3, 2011 @Wilba: Maybe you should put them in a 1ml or 0,5ml syringe? http://cgi.ebay.com.au/10x-1mL-SYRINGE-Sterile-Disposable-Luer-Slip-Vet-/150598353694?pt=AU_Business_Industrial_Medical_Scientific_Equipment2&hash=item23105c831e & http://cgi.ebay.com.au/0-5ml-single-use-Syringes-10-pack-BNIB-/400211077084?pt=UK_BOI_Medical_Lab_Equipment_Medical_Supplies_Disposables_ET&hash=item5d2e7067dc If the cap is air-tight, these syringes look like a perfect match. Or just tell the people to buy a specific brand. The Ceramique paste seems to be available worldwide and is really affordable. I don't see the challange there either. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wilba Posted May 3, 2011 Report Share Posted May 3, 2011 I really should have tried harder... http://www.mgchemicals.com/products/860.html 4 gram singles at Mouser, part 590-860-4G, $0.90 each. Dammit, it has to be done. Buying 100 now. Expect them in sammich kits starting now! :thumbsup: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
consumer Posted May 3, 2011 Report Share Posted May 3, 2011 Subquestion: Is the non-conductive heat sinking compound completely necessary? -Some is coming to me in my next order from Futurlec, but who the #C.C@ knows how long it will take to reach me... Ah, Futurelec... Thank you! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hawkeye Posted May 3, 2011 Report Share Posted May 3, 2011 unnecessary as wilba said as long as you don´t smear it over conductive parts which would never happen to a proper midiboxer :-) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wilba Posted May 4, 2011 Report Share Posted May 4, 2011 I think he means is heat transfer compound (of any kind) necessary, and I would answer no, it will work without it, just like a car will work without radiator coolant. (Yes, I'm being intentionally metaphorical). On a sidenote: Futurlec sucks. Even if you do get your order, it's mostly the absolute cheapest crap you could get. i.e. something might look like a Neutrik socket but be plated from stuff which will tarnish in a year and/or give you bad solder joints. If I knew years ago what I know now, I'd just pay the premium (of fixed $30 international postage) and get the good stuff from Mouser or Digikey, which have cheap prices anyway compared to local electronic stores. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
consumer Posted May 4, 2011 Report Share Posted May 4, 2011 Thank you both for your responses. That was my assumption, but sometimes it's best to ask the sages. Wilba, I understand your metaphor and completely intend to add heatsink compound at a later date, but hoped that the lack thereof would not stop me from testing voltages, software testing, etc this evening. As I understand it the tab of the 7805 is connected to ground; I was simply inquiring as to whether or not there was any possibility that omitting the compound (for now) could cause some bridge between GND and +5 or !!!Vin. Logic and my faith in the amazing design capability of Nils & Wilba tell me 'no', but that's an awfully expensive assumption to only verify through continuity tests and not against the knowledge of this friendly community. :) On a sidenote: Futurlec sucks. Lesson learned. Have fun! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hawkeye Posted May 4, 2011 Report Share Posted May 4, 2011 (edited) No, I am most sure nobody ever assumed that the heat compound can or should be used as a 100% isolator - ´cause anyways you should not use excessive amounts of it, just a very tiny blob to "fill the rough spots". Edited May 4, 2011 by Hawkeye Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wilba Posted May 5, 2011 Report Share Posted May 5, 2011 It's preferred to solder the voltage regulators after attaching to the heatsinks/PCB via screws and then never moving it again. You could solder them without compound, but then you would need to bend the leads to apply it later. Not such a good idea, as bending it back might not result in as good a mating between the voltage regulator and the heatsink (i.e. not be as parallel). As much as I love PCBs with plated through holes and pads on both sides, I hate desoldering such pads, especially ground plane pads... so my attitude is perhaps different... I solder things with the intention to do it once and not touch it again. So the idea of even temporarily soldering voltage regulators and then desoldering later to do it properly with compound etc. just makes me cringe. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
orange_hand Posted May 5, 2011 Author Report Share Posted May 5, 2011 Hi, so far I have read the build guide three or even four times and soldered once, so far :-). I hope that everything will be fine.. To be continued.. Cheers orange Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
orange_hand Posted May 6, 2011 Author Report Share Posted May 6, 2011 Hi Guys, yesterday I got my final stuff (PSU, Heat Sink Compound, 8 Pin Socket) and did the final voltage check. The 5 and 9 Volt check points were all ok. On the 12 Volt checkpoint I measured 10,78 Volt, which is on the lower end of what is required, but as I have installed 8580 SID's it doesn't matter anyway. I was so motivated that I also uploaded the firmware, installed the memory ic's and finally managed to upload the default patches. After that I did a brief sound check, which was also amazing. So I would like to thank Wilba for the excellent build guide, which helped me a lot to complete this little but powerful synth. All I have to do now is to paint the front panel. I have already completed the rear panel, but to be honest the result is not as good as I wished it was :-( But with this experience I believe to do the front panel better :-) Pictures will follow as soon as I have completed my work.... Cheers orange Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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