latigid on Posted March 16, 2013 Report Share Posted March 16, 2013 Nice, any tests so far? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ilmenator Posted March 16, 2013 Report Share Posted March 16, 2013 Traco rules - the TSR-1 series from Traco Power is running fine on my build. NO noise at all. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SpaceFire Posted June 18, 2015 Report Share Posted June 18, 2015 Ok I'm a total electronics novice at all this so please forgive my blundering and i'm very pleased if you over kill your answers (I don't mind being schooled at all ;) I would like to rebuild my power supply with the latest modern components and (possibly build another 6682) therefor I would like to put a "how to" for simpletons guide with photo's on the end of this thread. Or perhaps if this guide is worthy, a whole new thread (whatever the MOD's think best) that has the latest updated switching PSU information so that pretty much anyone can follow the instructions. (I have to admit I'm somewhat baffled by the PSU on this thing and I have read the major threads on it) My MB-6582 that has both types of SID currently is being powered by a noisy cobbled together double wall wart type PSU. I would like to MOD my SID box to have the latest switching type as seen in this thread and also keeping both power rails available. I would like to build in very decent overhead to both supplies so I may power additional components such as a PWM for RGB LED's and RGB LCD, I know that might sound lame to some but I have practical reasons to want to do this as I also plan on some other additions to the build. Please I would really appreciate help doing the PSU and if your kind enough to help please can direct Mouser links to all the components I would need and step by step instructions with pictures are highly welcomed. Much love to the community here, SF. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dreamer Posted December 13, 2015 Report Share Posted December 13, 2015 so i recently gained interest again to solder my 2nd mb6582 because the first one has a problem i could not solve. This way of powering a mb6582 is very interesting. Is this topic the only topic with the details or is it somewhere else even better documented? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
latigid on Posted December 13, 2015 Report Share Posted December 13, 2015 This one too:I think the sVreg is now EOL; I can't say anything about any replacements. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Altitude Posted December 14, 2015 Author Report Share Posted December 14, 2015 The TI one is long gone, switched to the Recom R-78B5.0-1.5L Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dreamer Posted January 1, 2016 Report Share Posted January 1, 2016 (edited) Hello Altitude, So i started a new MB6582 and did a little bit research. If i want to use both 6581 and 8580 (6582) and i want to run this on a single 12VDC power supply i need both 9VDC and 5VDC DC/DC converters right? https://www.conrad.nl/nl/dcdc-converter-print-recom-international-r-78b90-10l-32-vdc-9-vdc-1-a-9-w-aantal-uitgangen-1-x-676151.html https://www.conrad.nl/nl/dcdc-converter-print-recom-international-r-78c50-10-5-vdc-1-a-aantal-uitgangen-1-x-157764.html Above 2 will be usable right? Also i need to solder the base board with PSU option C right? And stuff V1 with the 9VDC? So if what i mention above is correct and i solder this with all the bridges like you showed on youre picture this should work correct? Finally the wire you have running from V2 to J71 9V connection is needed? And what value is the resistor that you are using on this wire? Edited January 1, 2016 by dreamer Changed the DC/DC converters. To types more fitting on the PCB layout Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Altitude Posted January 1, 2016 Author Report Share Posted January 1, 2016 Yep, that's how I have done it. switching 9V and 5V Recoms and a 7812 for the +12V rail and a 15V DC supply. You could forgo the 7812 and just use a regulated 12VDC brick but that's sort of putting yourself out there and any PSU fault could result in damage to the SIDs. The 7812 would provide protection from overvoltage. Triple check all your voltages before installing any chips The wire in that pic was to power the backlights for the knobs on mine and is not necessary Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dreamer Posted January 2, 2016 Report Share Posted January 2, 2016 Thanks for youre answer. So for extra safety V3 must be stuffed with 7812. So i was thinking about this one: https://www.conrad.nl/nl/dcdc-converter-print-tracopower-24-vdc-12-vdc-1-a-aantal-uitgangen-1-x-1086486.html This is a traco because of the dimensions. If my measurements are correct it will be a tight fit but should be possible to stuff all these on the top of the board. All of them are recommended on 1A will this be enough? And a 15VDC 2A powerbrick should be able to power it all right? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Altitude Posted January 2, 2016 Author Report Share Posted January 2, 2016 (edited) you can use a standard linear regulator, no need to spend 13 quid on a fancy switching one, it wont get very hot. 2A will be plenty, I measured ~1.1A on mine using 12V (700 mA for the SIDS!) Edited January 4, 2016 by Altitude 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dreamer Posted January 10, 2016 Report Share Posted January 10, 2016 I'm almost ready to solder in the PSU section. I want to solder this like the picture i made as a guideline. If i understand everything this should be the correct way to solder this. Please take a look at it and verify that this is the correct way. Only have 1 more question also shown in the picture. Is it correct that you only use the "J1A 9VAC" pins to supply the base board with 15VDC. Or do you also supply this to the "J1A 5V" pins? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Altitude Posted January 12, 2016 Author Report Share Posted January 12, 2016 looks good. The two power pins you will use are the two inside pins of the DIN connector, I cant tell you which those correspond to on the board, I just plug the DIN connector in and checked the pins with a meter, one goes to ground and the other is connected to the "9V-11V" pin. Make sure your jumpers are in, follow my pic as a guide Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dreamer Posted January 12, 2016 Report Share Posted January 12, 2016 (edited) Thanks for youre answer. Almost ready So are you using these to connect the power supply to the DIN socket? Edited January 12, 2016 by dreamer Changed the picture :) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Altitude Posted January 12, 2016 Author Report Share Posted January 12, 2016 no, 6 and 7 in that diagram Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dreamer Posted January 12, 2016 Report Share Posted January 12, 2016 (edited) I changed the picture to a more exact drawing. So you are using the 9VAC to power it. Awesome Edited January 12, 2016 by dreamer Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Altitude Posted January 12, 2016 Author Report Share Posted January 12, 2016 no, ignore those labels. Those are for a C64 PSU that I dont use. I simply connect the + wire and - to those pins of a blank 7 pin DIN connector and use a +12VDC supply. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dreamer Posted January 12, 2016 Report Share Posted January 12, 2016 I understand. Just making it easier for me because those labels are written on the base board. That's why i keep talking about it . Thanks for youre answers i think i've gathered enough info to power the board this way If not i will be back Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Altitude Posted January 12, 2016 Author Report Share Posted January 12, 2016 Gotcha. Just make sure you check for shorts and polarity before you power up and you should be fine 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dreamer Posted January 17, 2016 Report Share Posted January 17, 2016 Hey, I just connected and power upped the MB6582 and started measuring voltages. I soldered the board like the picture attached to this message. When i starting measuring i measured 15 VDC on the 5V power line --> NOK als measured 9 VDC on the 9V power line --> OK No voltage at all on the 12V power line --> NOK any ideas what i did wrong? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hawkeye Posted January 17, 2016 Report Share Posted January 17, 2016 Ok, just saw your other thread regarding the resistance between +5V and GND where I asked, if a switcher is in place :-). This explains it! :-) You'll need to trace it through... the +15VDC pin from your power connector must reach the input of the Recom 5V switcher (multimeter: 0 resistance). The output pin of the Recom 5V switcher must connect to the +5V MB6582 baseboard pin (upper-left center of the above picture, also with 0 resistance). If the +5V MB6582 baseboard pin is directly connected to the +15V input pin, there is something wrong :-). Other than that: some switchers require loads to operate correctly. High voltage readings, if no loads at all are connected, are common, but +15V is very high and should not happen, so I think some wrong wiring is involved. If you want to add a temporary test load, you could use a temporarily inserted resistor of 1kOhm or greater across the +5V and GND board pins. This load should only consume 0,025 watts @5V and stay cold, but should drop the voltage of the switcher, when measuring again, at least a bit. Pull out the resistor instantly, if it gets hot after powering up:). Many greets, Peter Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Altitude Posted January 17, 2016 Author Report Share Posted January 17, 2016 do you have the switcher in backwards? Post a pic of your board Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dreamer Posted January 18, 2016 Report Share Posted January 18, 2016 Here are the pictures of the board. Don't mind the greasy looking pic of the top view. This is from the PCB cleaner and is not conductive! Still have to clean the board properly. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Altitude Posted January 18, 2016 Author Report Share Posted January 18, 2016 (edited) The 5V is in backwards, The dot is the input. Look at my pic and note the orientation of pin one. Edited January 18, 2016 by Altitude Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dreamer Posted January 18, 2016 Report Share Posted January 18, 2016 hmmph i feel stupid now. I just lined up the dot on the 5V with the square on the PCB thinking that should be the input. I did the same with the 9V. I just checked the board layout and i can see my error now also. Thanks altitude for noticing it. When i'm home tonight i will turn it around hopefully the switcher is not broken now. Grtz Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Altitude Posted January 18, 2016 Author Report Share Posted January 18, 2016 It should be fine, did the same thing at one point. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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