graantjes Posted March 21, 2012 Report Share Posted March 21, 2012 Hi, First of, thanks to all who made this project happen, this will be one beast of a machine when it will be finished and this is all thanks to those involved! I finished my base pcb from wilba and I am using psu option A with 8 x 6582 SID`s. When checking voltages on my pcb I have 13,18 volts at J25 and I measure nothing at J3. Is this normal with psu option A or did I miss something? Every other test up until the Sid module assembly in the base construction guide measured out fine. Anything I missed? best regards, Joeri Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
orange_hand Posted March 21, 2012 Report Share Posted March 21, 2012 Hi, I checked the following when I built my MB6582 (no IC's installed): What do you measure at those points ? Cheers orange Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
graantjes Posted March 21, 2012 Author Report Share Posted March 21, 2012 (edited) Hi orange_hand, I measure *nothing between ground and 5V pins at J3, *nothing between ground and 5V pins at J4, *9V between ground and 9V pins at J4, *nothing between ground and 12V pins at J4, *13V between ground and 9-11V pins at J25, I also measured the psu pins and I have a correct 5VDC pin and a 9VAC pin thanks in advance, best regards, graantjes Edited March 21, 2012 by graantjes Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
orange_hand Posted March 23, 2012 Report Share Posted March 23, 2012 Hi, can you please post a picture of your PCB (especially the area around the power supply) in order to see which components have been populated. Cheers orange Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
graantjes Posted March 23, 2012 Author Report Share Posted March 23, 2012 sure, I have noticed I got a W06 bridge rectifier instead of a W04 listed in the parts guide, but looking at the datasheet, this shouldn` t be a problem? thanks, best regards, Joeri Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
strophlex Posted March 23, 2012 Report Share Posted March 23, 2012 I guess you got nothing between ground and the bridge at J73. I guess you have to turn the board over and measure pin 1 and 2 of the switch. This will help you: http://www.mb6582.org/plans/MB-6582_Base_PCB_R2_Color.pdf Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
graantjes Posted March 24, 2012 Author Report Share Posted March 24, 2012 Hi strophlex, I measure 5V at pin 1 but when i measure ground pin from psu input and pin 2 of the switch it gives me a distorted continuity sound, pin 4 of the switch gives me a normal continuity sound. Also measuring with the ground pin from the psu input and the ground at J3 or J4 gives a distorted sound. Hope this helps. bad switch? bad capacitor? I don`t want to take out working parts :) thanks! best regards Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
strophlex Posted March 25, 2012 Report Share Posted March 25, 2012 (edited) Did you make these continuity measurements with the power brick disconnected? If not, do that. The transformer in the power brick is a wire and makes continuity beep. EDIT: Never mind this, the 5V is regulated so there should be no short inside the power supply. There seems to be some bridge between +5V and gnd. It could be anywhere. One thing to try is to remove the bridge at J73. That would make it possible to check if the 5V-gnd bridge is before or after J73. Edited March 25, 2012 by strophlex Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
strophlex Posted March 25, 2012 Report Share Posted March 25, 2012 Tip for desoldering: 1) Put the board in a vertical position using a heavy clamp (like those metal clamps used for wood work). 2) Grab one side of the component with fingers, pliers or tweezers. 3) Reheat the solder at the joint from the back side of the board. 4) When the solder has melted, gently pry that side of the component out. 5) Repeat for the other side of the component. The component is free from the board. 6) Reheat the solder again and use a solder sucker from the component side to clean the hole from solder. Sometimes it makes sense to add some fresh solder to be able to get this done. Do not heat too much or the glue holding the copper traces will melt and the traces leave the board -> trouble! Good luck! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
graantjes Posted March 27, 2012 Author Report Share Posted March 27, 2012 Hi Strophlex, Thanks for the desoldering tips, So I looked around on the board looking for the 5v gnd bridge but I wasn` t able to locate any problems. Desoldered J73 bridge and did some more measuring; 5V pin J3 and pin 1 J73 gave good tone ;gnd pin J3 and pin 2 J73 gave sometimes good tone sometimes nothing I also think I heated up the insert from pin2 J73 too much as it came loose a little. Overall I think it is best to let somebody with better electronical know-how have a look at this board because I certainly wouldn` t want to brake anything else at this point. Maybe even sending this to anyone on the forum? thanks for the trouble and for helping me out best regards, Joeri Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
strophlex Posted March 28, 2012 Report Share Posted March 28, 2012 Too bad the pad came loose, but don't worry about that. Sounds like a short in the PSU part as you first expected. Might be a good idea to desolder some components there, but it is harder than desoldering the bridge. Especially the switch. Where do you live? What about the two pins of J3? Any beep? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
graantjes Posted March 29, 2012 Author Report Share Posted March 29, 2012 Hi Strophlex, I tried desoldering the switch and I think a pad came a little loose there too, so I really don` t want to desolder anymore stuff unless I am shure that` s the problem. Continuity on the pads between J4 and J3 are fine. I am from Belgium but I am willing to send the base pcb anywhere to those who are willing to have a look. thanks, best regards, Joeri Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
strophlex Posted March 30, 2012 Report Share Posted March 30, 2012 Hello again. Don't desolder anything more. I think it will be possible to find the problem now. Be careful not to bend the pads and traces that have come loose. Check these with continuety mode on the multimeter. J3:5V - J3:GND Switch:1 - Switch:2 Switch:1 - J3:GND Switch:2 - J3:GND Which ones beep? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
graantjes Posted March 30, 2012 Author Report Share Posted March 30, 2012 Hi Strophlex, thanks again for taking the time to help me out, With the power on, only the connection between pins 1 and 2 of the switch beep. All other continuity checks fail. best regards, Joeri Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
technobreath Posted March 30, 2012 Report Share Posted March 30, 2012 He will probably hit me with the hammer on my head for saying this, as I know he has a heavy workload atm, but I say it anyway hehe. In case everything else fails I'm sure smashtv could help u locate the problem. I have a 6582 myself, but uses none of the psu components on board, so I'm not sure I can help u any better than the fine strophlex here. Smashtv, I'm sure u read this hehe, please give me the opportunity to put on a helmet before u take out the adjustment hammer hehe. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
smashtv Posted March 30, 2012 Report Share Posted March 30, 2012 Smashtv, I'm sure u read this hehe, please give me the opportunity to put on a helmet before u take out the adjustment hammer hehe.Hehe helmet needs some custom "shaping" ;) I have noticed I got a W06 bridge rectifier instead of a W04 listed in the parts guide, but looking at the datasheet, this shouldn` t be a problem?W06 is no problem, same part but higher rating. There seems to be some bridge between +5V and gnd. It could be anywhere.Keep in mind a lot of meters will beep/show a false continuity reading across a working .1µF ceramic capacitor.... guess what we use for bypass caps between +5v and ground.... Seen a lot of guys chase false short circuits due to this back in the coin op days. With the power on, only the connection between pins 1 and 2 of the switch beep. All other continuity checks fail.I'm sure I am reading this wrong, but if not continuity checks are done only when the device is powered off (else your meter will eventually complain via smoke/fire). Best regards Tim Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
strophlex Posted March 30, 2012 Report Share Posted March 30, 2012 Just to make sure, when you do the continuity checks, you have the PSU disconnected, right? Did you desolder the switch completely or just a bit? Don't do any more desoldering, I just want to know. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
technobreath Posted March 31, 2012 Report Share Posted March 31, 2012 Hehe smashtv. U need to hammer out room for the horns I am growing? Yes, when I was very very young I also did a magic smoke release on my meter this way. I had gotten it for Xmas that year. A sad year that was. Hehe. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
graantjes Posted April 2, 2012 Author Report Share Posted April 2, 2012 J3:5V - J3:GND Switch:1 - Switch:2 Switch:1 - J3:GND Switch:2 - J3:GND Which ones beep? Without the power on, none of them beep. I am sorry to inform you that I have been checking the continuity with the power on, a friend told me it was done that way but I guess he was wrong... On the bright side: I will never forget this again :) best regards, Joeri Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
strophlex Posted April 3, 2012 Report Share Posted April 3, 2012 If you disconnect the power supply, but leave the power switch in the on state, then you get continuety between Switch:1 and Switch:2, right? I think the PSU part seems fine after all. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
graantjes Posted April 3, 2012 Author Report Share Posted April 3, 2012 That` s correct Strophlex, I get a beep between pin 1 and 2 of the switch. I still don` t have 5v beyond the psu input pins on the bottom though.... (as demonstrated by the dots on your picture) best regards, Joeri Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
strophlex Posted April 3, 2012 Report Share Posted April 3, 2012 So, the state now is that - the bridge at J73 is removed. - The power switch is soldered. - There is no short between ground and 5V. (Measured by connecting multimeter in continuety mode between J73:pin2 and J3:GND for example. PSU disconnected, power switch on and no beep from meter). - There is 0 V DC reading on multimeter with PSU connected and switch on between J73:pin2 and J3:GND. Did I get all that right? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
graantjes Posted April 3, 2012 Author Report Share Posted April 3, 2012 So, the state now is that - the bridge at J73 is removed. - The power switch is soldered. - There is no short between ground and 5V. (Measured by connecting multimeter in continuety mode between J73:pin2 and J3:GND for example. PSU disconnected, power switch on and no beep from meter). - There is 0 V DC reading on multimeter with PSU connected and switch on between J73:pin2 and J3:GND. Did I get all that right? that` s correct,except that I did get a beep on the backside sometimes between J73:pin2 and J3:GND, but the contact on the backside (from J73:pin2) is loose from trying to desolder the bridge, so now it doesn` t beep anymore... hope this helps :) best regards, Joeri Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
strophlex Posted April 3, 2012 Report Share Posted April 3, 2012 Make a continuety check between pin 2 (5V) and pin 3 (GND) of the power connector socket with PSU unplugged. Try this with power switch both on and off. Look at the schematic to find these pads. THey must be checked from under side because the connector is in the way from above. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
graantjes Posted April 3, 2012 Author Report Share Posted April 3, 2012 With the powerswitch off it didn` t beep, with the powerswitch on it beeped a little while but stopped beeping. best regards, Joeri Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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