Jump to content

Starting The SID Project


Scifo

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 87
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

Posted Images

80.71 euro netto for the front panel, I get exactly the same when checking with Wilba's 3rd example.

Sure, I can try inserting the holes in FPD, but I would need to know exactly where to insert the holes and how big the holes should be.

Anyone?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

The higher price may be because the artwork has not been connected to one single hpgl outline...

You can download the "cheapest" FPD, get the hole dimensions and positions from the "more expensive" FPD and transfer them to the cheapest, but it is a bit of work in the frontpanel designer...

Many greets,

Peter

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Peter, I'm uncertain about 3 products that I'm about to order that's on your tutorial but without link to a shop. Let me know if any of the following products are wrong.

Thanx!

16 pin flat ribbon cable:

http://www.reichelt.de/Cables-flat-ribbon/AWG-28-16F-3M/3/index.html?;ACTION=3;LA=446;ARTICLE=47670;GROUPID=3328;artnr=AWG+28-16F+3M;SID=12ULLDCX8AAAIAAA-xSuM78e6ab6453ac2e93398500431be226d3

16 pin female IDC connector (buy two or three to be on the safe side):

http://de.mouser.com/ProductDetail/TE-Connectivity-AMP/1658621-3/?qs=sGAEpiMZZMvlX3nhDDO4ALcyoFGtMwu10ZS3SObiE9I%3d

16 pin DIL-header or 2x8 pin SIL-header for connection testing:

http://de.mouser.com/ProductDetail/TE-Connectivity-AMP/5-146257-4/?qs=sGAEpiMZZMtsLRyDR9nM17rHNLYljp%2fZjMGinME%252b%252bHQ%3d

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Hi Scifo,

all product links are correct - you don´t need the DIL header, it was just recommended to check, that your crimped flat ribbon cable connections are ok, but i´ve yet never made one with connections not working, so you might also skip that item :).

Regarding the corner screws, of course you can omit them and build it as Wilba recommends it, he designed the unit, so it is surely not wrong! :).

When the two JB-weld components are mixed properly and the glue is applied to a slightly sanded surface, JB-Weld sticks perfectly and it will be very hard to break it...

Best regards,

Peter

Edited by Hawkeye
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Do you? Why? If it is because you don't want to use JB-Weld be warned that the CS PCB needs to be connected to the panel with JB-Welded studs as well!

Ok, cool. Since I'm just an amateur with these things, I have to cover every small change in my path through Hawkeye's tutorial :rolleyes:

With "studs", are you referring to the 24 thread hex spacers that I am about to order?

If these studs are not listed in Hawkeye's tutorial, where can I get them from?

Edited by Scifo
Link to comment
Share on other sites

No one is interfering! :)

I'm referring to this tutorial:

It's from this tutorial I'm collecting the info of all the items I need to buy to start building. And sometimes it gets complicated with the language; studs = spacers, was just one example :)

/Scifo

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Hi,

to complicate things even more, the hex spacers were called "thread hex" by mouser and they are listed in step 5 - here is the mouser item link...

http://de.mouser.com...8Cjr79rUnGjlgHx

These M3 threaded hex spacers are pretty common, and you can get them at reichelt, too, in all different lengths, but you need 10mm for the CS.

Don´t worry too much, if you don´t get everything in the first order run - I think, I ordered three times, before everything necessary was shopped :)

Many greets,

Peter

Edited by Hawkeye
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Hi,

to complicate things even more, the hex spacers were called "thread hex" by mouser and they are listed in step 5 - here is the mouser item link...

http://de.mouser.com...8Cjr79rUnGjlgHx

These M3 threaded hex spacers are pretty common, and you can get them at reichelt, too, in all different lengths, but you need 10mm for the CS.

Don´t worry too much, if you don´t get everything in the first order run - I think, I ordered three times, before everything necessary was shopped :)

Many greets,

Peter

That one I had under control :thumbsup: . I've made a list of all items from your tutorial, and will try to order as much as I can from Mouser (over 20 bucks to not having to pay the shipping costs). I will get the flat LEDs from Reichelt so I should spread the orders around these two sellers.

Just to be clear; The "studs" mentioned earlier = the 24 thread hex. :logik:

I still haven't decided from where I should get the LCD. That Statistronic is very cheap, tho. I would get it including shipping for around 13-14 euros.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Personally, I´d recommend to buy a more expensive one, that reacts quicker - my Satistronics ones were very laggy - they are currently used as paper weights, waiting to be transplanted into something really unimportant, like ahm... the local neighborhood nuclear reactor temperature gauge or sth :)

Link to comment
Share on other sites

About the LCD, I found this on Reichelt:

http://www.reichelt.de/LCD-Modules-organic/EA-W204-XLG/3/index.html?;ACTION=3;LA=446;ARTICLE=113324;GROUPID=3012;artnr=EA+W204-XLG;SID=12ULFlq38AAAIAAE3FU3Q32cc7c628a6ea428f73250adc80754e9

It's pricey, but I really like the yellow on black, but this one is using OLED (not LED) technology - problems?

Crystalfontz has one as well, but they have a 63 USD shipping cost to Europe, so I'm trying to find a EU seller that has this yellow-on-black display.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Big problems with that one - i tried the exact same version, would not initialize in 4-bit mode, was right into hacking the driver, then it burned on me :-)

Edit: ohh, i love their description:

"Mit dem bekannten 4-Bit und 8-Bit Interface sind die neuen OLED-Displays ganz ähnlich dem HD44780 Standard."

saying "they are quite close to the standard"...

Edited by Hawkeye
Link to comment
Share on other sites

2x16 OLEDs from Rapid Electronics (they have red on blacks!) work fine for old synths, Shruthis and possibly MiDIbox in 8bit mode as well. The 4x20s don't like the 4-bit 6582 connection, plus you need to do driver and bootloader hacking. Also, the Newhaven OLEDs seem to need some jumper remixing and have +5V as an absolute maximum voltage. You might want to bring that down to 2.5 or 3.3 V using a 74HC4050 buffer just to be safe.

If this doesn't sound like an insane amount of work, then by all means do it and tell the rest of us how ninja.png

Cheers!

J

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I would like to thank NorthernLightX for his panels - they arrived safe and sound. Now I just hope that those soon-to-arrive flat 3mm LEDs will fit through those holes...

And, Mouser just got a new batch of Alpha Encoders, so they are on the way as well.

The project is rolling.

OT: Today I bought a DSI Tempest. Can't wait for the MB6582 to be ready to make them best friends :)

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

Loading...

×
×
  • Create New...