Starting The SID Project

[rosch]

http://www.midibox.o..._mb_6582_panels

i've used just the 3rd example of the frontpanel files provided by Wilba on the linked page, seems cheaper, but maybe you like to change stuff.

[Scifo]

http://www.midibox.o..._mb_6582_panels

i've used just the 3rd example of the frontpanel files provided by Wilba on the linked page, seems cheaper, but maybe you like to change stuff.

Yes, I need one with 4 corner screw holes. Maybe Schaeffer have increased their prices. Looks like you ordered yours in 2010.

[rosch]

no i bought mine from a member here. i just downloaded FPD and the files to look what they say.

if you add the 4 holes, will it be that much more expensive?

[Scifo]

80.71 euro netto for the front panel, I get exactly the same when checking with Wilba's 3rd example.

Sure, I can try inserting the holes in FPD, but I would need to know exactly where to insert the holes and how big the holes should be.

Anyone?

[Hawkeye]

The higher price may be because the artwork has not been connected to one single hpgl outline...

You can download the "cheapest" FPD, get the hole dimensions and positions from the "more expensive" FPD and transfer them to the cheapest, but it is a bit of work in the frontpanel designer...

Many greets,

Peter

[Scifo]

Peter, I'm uncertain about 3 products that I'm about to order that's on your tutorial but without link to a shop. Let me know if any of the following products are wrong.

Thanx!

16 pin flat ribbon cable:

http://www.reichelt.de/Cables-flat-ribbon/AWG-28-16F-3M/3/index.html?;ACTION=3;LA=446;ARTICLE=47670;GROUPID=3328;artnr=AWG+28-16F+3M;SID=12ULLDCX8AAAIAAA-xSuM78e6ab6453ac2e93398500431be226d3

16 pin female IDC connector (buy two or three to be on the safe side):

http://de.mouser.com/ProductDetail/TE-Connectivity-AMP/1658621-3/?qs=sGAEpiMZZMvlX3nhDDO4ALcyoFGtMwu10ZS3SObiE9I%3d

16 pin DIL-header or 2x8 pin SIL-header for connection testing:

http://de.mouser.com/ProductDetail/TE-Connectivity-AMP/5-146257-4/?qs=sGAEpiMZZMtsLRyDR9nM17rHNLYljp%2fZjMGinME%252b%252bHQ%3d

[NorthernLightX]

Yes, I need one with 4 corner screw holes.

Do you? Why? If it is because you don't want to use JB-Weld be warned that the CS PCB needs to be connected to the panel with JB-Welded studs as well!

[Hawkeye]

Hi Scifo,

all product links are correct - you don´t need the DIL header, it was just recommended to check, that your crimped flat ribbon cable connections are ok, but i´ve yet never made one with connections not working, so you might also skip that item :).

Regarding the corner screws, of course you can omit them and build it as Wilba recommends it, he designed the unit, so it is surely not wrong! :).

When the two JB-weld components are mixed properly and the glue is applied to a slightly sanded surface, JB-Weld sticks perfectly and it will be very hard to break it...

Best regards,

Peter

Edited December 2, 2012 by Hawkeye

[Scifo]

Do you? Why? If it is because you don't want to use JB-Weld be warned that the CS PCB needs to be connected to the panel with JB-Welded studs as well!

Ok, cool. Since I'm just an amateur with these things, I have to cover every small change in my path through Hawkeye's tutorial :rolleyes:

With "studs", are you referring to the 24 thread hex spacers that I am about to order?

If these studs are not listed in Hawkeye's tutorial, where can I get them from?

Edited December 2, 2012 by Scifo

[NorthernLightX]

Those are the studs I was referring to. I'm not sure which tutorial you are referring to though, and since Hawkeye is also helping you I do not want to interfere too much.

[Scifo]

No one is interfering! :)

I'm referring to this tutorial:

It's from this tutorial I'm collecting the info of all the items I need to buy to start building. And sometimes it gets complicated with the language; studs = spacers, was just one example :)

/Scifo

[Hawkeye]

Hi,

to complicate things even more, the hex spacers were called "thread hex" by mouser and they are listed in step 5 - here is the mouser item link...

http://de.mouser.com...8Cjr79rUnGjlgHx

These M3 threaded hex spacers are pretty common, and you can get them at reichelt, too, in all different lengths, but you need 10mm for the CS.

Don´t worry too much, if you don´t get everything in the first order run - I think, I ordered three times, before everything necessary was shopped :)

Many greets,

Peter

Edited December 2, 2012 by Hawkeye

[Scifo]

Hi,

to complicate things even more, the hex spacers were called "thread hex" by mouser and they are listed in step 5 - here is the mouser item link...

http://de.mouser.com...8Cjr79rUnGjlgHx

These M3 threaded hex spacers are pretty common, and you can get them at reichelt, too, in all different lengths, but you need 10mm for the CS.

Don´t worry too much, if you don´t get everything in the first order run - I think, I ordered three times, before everything necessary was shopped :)

Many greets,

Peter

That one I had under control :thumbsup: . I've made a list of all items from your tutorial, and will try to order as much as I can from Mouser (over 20 bucks to not having to pay the shipping costs). I will get the flat LEDs from Reichelt so I should spread the orders around these two sellers.

Just to be clear; The "studs" mentioned earlier = the 24 thread hex. :logik:

I still haven't decided from where I should get the LCD. That Statistronic is very cheap, tho. I would get it including shipping for around 13-14 euros.

[Hawkeye]

Personally, I´d recommend to buy a more expensive one, that reacts quicker - my Satistronics ones were very laggy - they are currently used as paper weights, waiting to be transplanted into something really unimportant, like ahm... the local neighborhood nuclear reactor temperature gauge or sth :)

[Scifo]

Ok, good to know. I like the colors of this one: https://www.crystalfontz.com/product/CFAH2004AYMIJT

Yellow on Darkgreen.

[Scifo]

Mouser have a 12 weeks Factory Lead Time on the 15 Alpha Rotary Encoders. Does anyone know other places to order them from (pref in EU), since these Alpha's are highly recommended?

Thanx. /Scifo

[NorthernLightX]

you can use ALPS. Voti offers them. Or just serch at your regular suspects.

[Scifo]

Can't find any ALPS product on Voti's page, but I found these: http://www.voti.nl/shop/catalog.html?SW-ROT-02

Is it important that the shaft is 16 mm when I'm looking for these encoders?

[rosch]

these are with push button. the ones without are cheaper and you don't need push buttons in a regular mb6582 setup.

the ones without are linked on that page too as related products, if you scroll down

[Scifo]

Thanx Rosch. So the 16mm shaft is not a must on these encoders?

[rosch]

it depends on the knobs you like to use. the threading goes through the holes to about the surface so there's no space behind the panel the shaft needs to go through

[Scifo]

About the LCD, I found this on Reichelt:

http://www.reichelt.de/LCD-Modules-organic/EA-W204-XLG/3/index.html?;ACTION=3;LA=446;ARTICLE=113324;GROUPID=3012;artnr=EA+W204-XLG;SID=12ULFlq38AAAIAAE3FU3Q32cc7c628a6ea428f73250adc80754e9

It's pricey, but I really like the yellow on black, but this one is using OLED (not LED) technology - problems?

Crystalfontz has one as well, but they have a 63 USD shipping cost to Europe, so I'm trying to find a EU seller that has this yellow-on-black display.

[Hawkeye]

Big problems with that one - i tried the exact same version, would not initialize in 4-bit mode, was right into hacking the driver, then it burned on me :-)

Edit: ohh, i love their description:

"Mit dem bekannten 4-Bit und 8-Bit Interface sind die neuen OLED-Displays ganz ähnlich dem HD44780 Standard."

saying "they are quite close to the standard"...

Edited December 4, 2012 by Hawkeye

[jojjelito]

2x16 OLEDs from Rapid Electronics (they have red on blacks!) work fine for old synths, Shruthis and possibly MiDIbox in 8bit mode as well. The 4x20s don't like the 4-bit 6582 connection, plus you need to do driver and bootloader hacking. Also, the Newhaven OLEDs seem to need some jumper remixing and have +5V as an absolute maximum voltage. You might want to bring that down to 2.5 or 3.3 V using a 74HC4050 buffer just to be safe.

If this doesn't sound like an insane amount of work, then by all means do it and tell the rest of us how

Cheers!

J

[Scifo]

I would like to thank NorthernLightX for his panels - they arrived safe and sound. Now I just hope that those soon-to-arrive flat 3mm LEDs will fit through those holes...

And, Mouser just got a new batch of Alpha Encoders, so they are on the way as well.

The project is rolling.

OT: Today I bought a DSI Tempest. Can't wait for the MB6582 to be ready to make them best friends :)