Guest Zzzz... Posted November 19, 2003 Report Posted November 19, 2003 hi....I made some PCB-schematic in Eagle for the optimized PSU for the 4 Sid's, according to Thorsten Klose's pdf.But somewhere i made a mistake.....because i did connect the trafo of the C64 (9 and 5 Volt)...ande then my little 78L09 did get really hot.....too hot...smelled some frying...although my Led burned....Could someone with electronic background take a look to this PCB and give me some feedback about  this ...problem....and the switch, which  have to be controlled as original on a commodore.Did i use the right pins?? I like to do Eagle but don't understand anything about electronics....If these problems are solved....this schematic is for TK, and so of course for you all.Btw...in the axial and radial vs...is the polarity of the capacitors (2200uF/16V (lower) an 2200uF/25V (upper)) in right to left order .... - and +, - and +. Little bit vague...maybe. but didn't had a better screendump. Sorry...Don't mind the extra pads....is been solved.But what is the problem?Axial version:Radial version:Somebody??Grtz  Erik Quote
doc Posted January 11, 2004 Report Posted January 11, 2004 Hi Zzzz..... was just surfin' through Forum and wondered why your question wasn't ansered yet.If it's still actual, I'll try my very best ... (except my bad english...)First: Your 79L09 is placed the wrong way ! Thats why it's gettin hot! ;DYou've changed the 'in' and the 'out' pin. Just turn the regulator 180°.2.) You've connected the switch in the wrong way, I think. The two front pins whre you've connected pin 1 of the power plug are usually the ground plane of the switch. Just go a row higher with your connections. The other two connections are the two middle pins of the switch. The upper ones are left out. (They have connection when the switch position is OFF).3.) I recognized a little error in TK's psu design. The original LED has to be connected in the following way: the red cable must be the one where the 220 Resistor goes to. The black one must be wirered with ground. So change the pins of the connector and your LED will do it again (in fact you didn't blow it really). Perhaps there are differences between the orignal C64 wiring of the original LED. Just check it.4.) The Bankstick could be used, but I did a little board with 8 EEPROMS on it (just on TKs page illustrated) and wired it directly to have 8 banks (A0...A7). Just pay attention to the Ground and +5V connections. Works fine and you don't have to change/plug the banksticks.I didn't check your power plug. Just measure the outputs.Hope this helps.Note: I didn't make a pcb. I just sawed the original pcp and screwed a little breadboard with the PSU on it together. So all connectors have their place. You just have to pay a little attention on the two layers of the C64 Board. Quote
Guest Zzzz... Posted January 12, 2004 Report Posted January 12, 2004 Hi doc....Hi Zzzz.. ... was just surfin' through Forum and wondered why your question wasn't ansered yet. Â If it's still actual, I'll try my very best ... (except my bad english...) Â First: Your 79L09 is placed the wrong way ! Thats why it's gettin hotThanks...Actually I had totally forget this post....but your right...i already figured out that the voltage regulator...was in the wrong way....It had to be turned indeed 180 degrees....Probably this PCB layout is already (but i'm not sure) online @ midibox.org2.) You've connected the switch in the wrong way, I think. The two front pins whre you've connected pin 1 of the power plug are usually the ground plane of the switch. Just go a row higher with your connections. The other two connections are the two middle pins of the switch. The upper ones are left out. (They have connection when the switch position is OFF). I had some discussion about the pinning with Tk also...and don't know exactly what you mean, but what happens now with the PCB i've made now, is that it works in the same way as it does on the commodore 64. I took as you did...the schematic of the C64. and went testing untill it worked I wanted it to... Only its been already quite some time...so can't get thoughts then in my head now on this topic ... But if you want to check the new PCB ...that's fine with me and i could send it to you....It's working with me...so far...Thanks...for your reply....I really appreciated it that there's someone who didn't forget my post...a long time ago...Grtz...Erik Quote
arumblack Posted January 12, 2004 Report Posted January 12, 2004 did you send the corrected layout to the portal? Quote
Guest Zzzz... Posted January 12, 2004 Report Posted January 12, 2004 Yep...the corrected layers...are if good send to Poeloq (?)I'm not sure if he already had the time to put them online...Grtz...Erik Quote
d2k Posted January 12, 2004 Report Posted January 12, 2004 Hi...Here's another layout with 4 banksticks on brd and also I made use of the other connector so u can run the AOUT module in an external box :)Untested as of yet... Quote
doc Posted January 12, 2004 Report Posted January 12, 2004 Yep !This layout looks a little better...And the switch is connected the right way ! (-> Eric)I already finished the SID Box C... but for the next time ! 8)Have fun folks !DOC Quote
Guest Zzzz... Posted January 12, 2004 Report Posted January 12, 2004 Doc...Nice to hear...But probably quite good you got your SID's already rolling....D2k....Are you willing to send this PCB? It's quite interesting and a bit bigger than mine is...And do you have the aout-module also in Eagle-format..? Than I don't have to do double work.Thanks in advance...Erik Quote
d2k Posted January 13, 2004 Report Posted January 13, 2004 Hey...Are you willing to send this PCB? It's quite interesting and a bit bigger than mine is... Sure :) I'll make a pcb first just be sure it works fine then send a link to the .sch and .brd files in a zip or summin, or the portal would be ideal...And do you have the aout-module also in Eagle-format..? Than I don't have to do double work.Nope, I havnt done a layout for the aout module - as far as i knew it's still in testing no? Tho goin well no doubt ;pBest Quote
TK. Posted January 16, 2004 Report Posted January 16, 2004 The AOUT module works very stable, I tested it together with a guywho owns a lot of nice analog gear some days ago.Want to have an impression? ;DBut the schematic is not final! I will possibly add some capsto the digital power supply, just to improve the s/n ratio(but it's already ok - just a prevention measure)And I will add a connector for the 8x8 AMUX extension, sothat a single MB64 (later also a seperate application) candrive up to 64 CV outputsBest Regards, Thorsten. Quote
TK. Posted January 16, 2004 Report Posted January 16, 2004 P.S.: we checked the AOUT module against a Doepfer MCV24,the output voltage of the AOUT is much more stable (accurate) compared to this commercial solution ;-)Means: in difference to the Doepfer solution a note or CCalways leads to exactly the same voltageBest Regards, Thorsten. Quote
moebius Posted January 16, 2004 Report Posted January 16, 2004 Great work!! ;DI bet you had some fun time at the studio, I'm sure I'd have ;)Bye, Moebius Quote
pay_c Posted January 16, 2004 Report Posted January 16, 2004 First: :o :oCool studio. Are these 4 Korgs the only ones or has he even more of those? ? ?And: Is that his bed or is it a mixing console? Must be damn comfortable...OK, enough for that.Great news about that DOUT. Thats now the third piece I *have* to built in my spare time (especially now that I know its working better than the Doepfer one...). :D Quote
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