cosmosuave Posted May 4, 2014 Report Share Posted May 4, 2014 I have built a case for my SEQV4 out of 1/2" birch ply with threaded inserts to attach the control panel (Julian's ) and the issue is the holes don't line up and I do not want to elongate holes on the control panel... There is not much room for error as all you have to work with is about 3 to 4 mm of aluminum and wood as the edge of the pcb is only 3 or 4 mm from the edge of the aluminum control panel... I am ready to scrap the case after investing several hours of work into it.. Basically I want a case that will be rackmount and desktop those of you that have Julians control panel what did you use for a case? Is there a ponoko case out there for it... I am pretty much complete on my project except for the case... Thanks.. Brian Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ilmenator Posted May 4, 2014 Report Share Posted May 4, 2014 Roland MV-8000 case here with a Ponoko front panel. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
julianf Posted May 4, 2014 Report Share Posted May 4, 2014 Brian, What issues are you having, exactly? The hole spacing on the panel is according to Wilba's original files, and will be the same as any other panel cut with the same files - are you using his pcb layout, or another? Julian Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cosmosuave Posted May 4, 2014 Author Report Share Posted May 4, 2014 Brian, What issues are you having, exactly? The hole spacing on the panel is according to Wilba's original files, and will be the same as any other panel cut with the same files - are you using his pcb layout, or another? Julian Let's see if I can represent this via ascii... Nothing that you have done Julian... Imagine looking down at the underside on the panel with the PCB control surface attached.... That space between these two is only a couple of millimeters which makes it hard to mount to the wood in my case.... If I had pics it would be easier to explain.. I think I am gonna have to go back to the drawing board and redesign my case... PCB EDGE------>| |<---------Front Panel outside edge Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cosmosuave Posted May 4, 2014 Author Report Share Posted May 4, 2014 Roland MV-8000 case here with a Ponoko front panel. Need to see a pic of that... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
julianf Posted May 5, 2014 Report Share Posted May 5, 2014 Can you take the whole lot up from the base of the case? So, from bottom to top, it would be - bolt head on wooden base, with thread pointing up toward the inside of the case wooden base threaded spacers, with the bolt from the bottom screwed into them - these would need to be long enough to take another bolt from the other side also then the pcb then a non-threaded spacer then the top panel then a nice looking bolt, that goes down, through the panel, through the non-threadeed spacer, through the pcb, and into the same threadded spacer as the bolt from the base comes into Assuming your case edges were nice and rigid, and the case itself was not very weighty, would this be sufficient? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Altitude Posted May 5, 2014 Report Share Posted May 5, 2014 let me guess, you are using inkscape? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EsotericLabs Posted May 5, 2014 Report Share Posted May 5, 2014 (edited) I use a hard plastic modular 3u rack mount case from my local electronics store and a ponoko front plate too. The case needed a little bit of dremeling, but it is a perfect fit now. Edited May 5, 2014 by EsotericLabs Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ilmenator Posted May 5, 2014 Report Share Posted May 5, 2014 Need to see a pic of that... The lower part with the drum pads is not shown in this image, and the side panels are not mounted yet. I'll publish another picture when it's finally ready :smile: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cosmosuave Posted May 5, 2014 Author Report Share Posted May 5, 2014 (edited) I am just gonna start from scratch again... Thanks for the replies... See in the pic where it has been circled this is where I am playing with a 3mm surface to mount to a case or I should scrap using those holes and use the 2 at each end.... Edited May 5, 2014 by cosmosuave Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
julianf Posted May 5, 2014 Report Share Posted May 5, 2014 I see your issue now. Im not sure how possible its going to be with wood. With metal - Imagine a U section, but with the tops of the U lipped over, so you get this kind of shape - [_] ...but all out of one bit of metal. Say 0.8mm mild steel. That's almost a diy bending job. You could then 'block' the ends with chunks of wood. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cosmosuave Posted May 5, 2014 Author Report Share Posted May 5, 2014 I was thinking the same thing Julian I might even make some small 90 degree tabs with threaded holes to use as mounts... If I do this I may be able to salvage the case... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cosmosuave Posted May 14, 2014 Author Report Share Posted May 14, 2014 Bailed on the wood case and just got a piece of 1/8" aluminum bent in a channel... For the ends I will use wooden cheeks... Will busy drilling and dremmeling all the cut outs for connections.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cosmosuave Posted June 21, 2014 Author Report Share Posted June 21, 2014 My SEQV4 is almost finished... Got the case done just need to wire the mains and connect the boards... Holes in the case are for gate/cv jacks and fuse/switch... So glad I bailed on the wood case I was making... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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