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Broccoli18 and Bootloader - SUCCESS!!!


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it didnt tell me what voltages it should read..

but it did go low when it should go low.. well rb6 and rb7 did go high and low.. but the rest.. vss and mclr# i powered via battery and wall wart.. so they didnt go high or low.. they stayed high..

as far as voltages i have no clue what they should read.. but i do know that a 9 volt battery is more than 9 volts.. and my wall wart gives out 3.33 volt instead of 3..

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but it did go low when it should go low.. well rb6 and rb7 did go high and low.. but the rest.. vss and mclr# i powered via battery and wall wart.. so they didnt go high or low.. they stayed high..

Sounds good. The voltage here to watch -  actually, directly from parallel port, is D0. Teh Broccoli uses that resistor for current limiting, so it could be critical, if voltage is near 5v.

Do you have gnd from the parallel port connected to vss?

as far as voltages i have no clue what they should read.. but i do know that a 9 volt battery is more than 9 volts.. and my wall wart gives out 3.33 volt instead of 3..

Shouldn't be a problem.

The pic warming up is most likely wiring error.

Bye, Moebius

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well ive checked voltages.. but i dont have any knowledge of what it should be..

first of all.. all ground is connected to each other.. that means lpt to wall wart to battery.. all their grounds are connected..

then.. the rb7 is about 4,59V when hot and about 0,66V when cold..

the voltage between VDD and VSS is 3,33V and between VPP and ground its about 9,44V these are obviously the wall wart and the battery

SO they cant get high or low..

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moebius.. this is the setup that made my first pic hot..

i have a theory.. when i first plugged in the pic i had a wire in the wrong place.. (the ground of the battery was between the vdd and the + of the 3v adapter)

it nuked my pic.. and when i plug in that pic now.. it gets hot becuz its nuked inside.. does that sound right?? if this is true i have to try another pic.. but i dont

want to nuke that one too..

kokoon.. if its not a lot of trouble.. its a good idea.. if it is a lot of trouble.. dont bother..

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so no one has seemed to answer this question: does one of the ceramic caps like the ones used as bypass additions on the bottom of the MB boards work or do you need a polarized one?

I'm not an expert so i don't know what 'elko' means either.

Also, can anyone confirm this working in Windows 98 or within DOS on a Win98 machine? My only PC is an old 500mhz with Win98 on it that can't even handle a DSL connection without locking up; i'm hoping i can just use it instead of trying to do it on another machine.

thanks

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elko means electrolytic polarized capacitor. you can get them anywhere. not that small value though. but since it's just for stabilizing the voltage (so it doesn't vary that much) i think it could be higher also (not too high though - you may have troubles charging it - if i understand this correctly)

i don't know if ceramic can be used but if i had to guess then i'd say yes.

regarding OS: i think it's easier to make it work on ms dos or win98 because of the low-level port access which you don't have in winXP. but if it still won't work - i got it to work only in linux. it's really easy - just burn yourself a live distro cd ( http://www.kubuntu.org for instance ), download linux source, compile and run!

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okay  Wisefire  here go your pics.

i've been working 15 hours a day for the last week and it'll be so for the next few weeks too. that's what took me so long.

i know mine is very messy - i didn't find a connector so i soldered the lpt cable directly ;)

bottom shot:

broccoli18018nq.th.jpg

top shot:

broccoli18026ya.th.jpg

another top shot:

broccoli18038if.th.jpg

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well i tried a linux live-cd for the first time yesterday; GREAT-- i finally got an ethernet card to work that has been sitting in my computer useless for years!

But broccoli didnt seem to work; although i'm not sure of its expected behavior.

I tried to compile and run it before doing any breadboard work and I had the problem of a message saying

"cannot set port address to 378"

i have no idea how to address this. (no pun intended)

anyone have a clue?

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wow. 5 days of no forum in the middle of troubleshooting a pic burner. i can't think of a worse torture. using the google cache that is 1 year old only got me half of the info i needed i think.

OK, so here I am right now:

After lots of micro-incremental changes and do-overs, i am at the point where I am getting the following when I try in Linux (now i've installed linux onto the machine instead of using a live-cd)

erasepic a ton of times

readcfg gets this (sometimes reliably, sometimes every 4th try, sometimes never then i switch to another pic18f and its reliable again):

Configuration bits 00 27 0f 0f 00 01 85 00 0f c0 0f e0 0f 40

Programmable ID bytes ff ff ff ff ff ff ff ff

Device ID 04 27

Found PIC18F452

erasepic a ton of times, still same cfg info (i.e. the 6th bit 85 is not changing to 81-- what i have read should indicate that write-protection is disabled/erased)

then I writepic with the standard bootstrap loader available from the portal (my failure to change bits for device ID 0x01-3 successfully in IC-PROG is another story for a diff. thread)

writepic outputs the following:

Detecting PIC... Found PIC18F452

Using hex file mios/boot0.hex.

Reading hex file...

Erasing memory from 0 to 32504...

Programming memory from 0 to 32504...

pic_verify: Memory doesn't match at address 0.

Error in pic_prog: Success

so its not working... well i thought maybe there is a chance in hell it's working but when i tried, the pics are not responding in the functioning CORE that I have..

So far with repetition I am consistently getting either all zeros and no pic detected or the above output; so something is consistent and something is obviously wrong.

little notes on setup:

-my 9-volt went down to 7.5 volts so i added a AAA battery to the chain and now i am (semi)reliably reading all 3 pic18fs, whereas before i was only getting 2 of them read.

-the resistor calculation, either i havent completely understood, or the suggestions are innacurate: I have 4.5 volts coming from my LPT so I calculated 300 ohm, but 300 ohm, 330 ohm and 550 ohm don't work, 220ohm (like original schematic suggests) works. Right now I have a chain of a 220 and a 330 with the 330 shorted with alligator clips (for easy switching, sick of going back and forth to the soldering table! :) )

- i am powering the pic's vdd/vss with the 4.5 from LPT pin 13 (on my computer this is constantly 4.5 volts); 2 AA batteries, 2 AAA batteries, 1 AA+2 AAA, 2AA+1AAA, and 2AA+2AAA wasn't working. :(

-after trial and error I am using a pol. cap with value 220uF, all other combinations weren't working (even using 'BIG-ASS' caps with value 2000MF like readme suggests trying)

-i have a 10k resistor between pins 38 and 31 to disable LVP but i'm not sure this is needed, no one seems to have mentioned this

-pins 11 and 32 are bridged together (the two Vdds) and pins 12 and 31 are also bridged together like schematics for pic-burner, jdm module, and core module all show. this wasnt explicitely mentioned in the broccoli18 schematic but i thought this should be the case

ok, sorry for this long post, i've had 5 days alone!

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Sorry to be of no help with burner issues, but I want to remind everyone that I will burn the bootloader to your PIC for free, no matter if you bought it from me or not.  You only pay for actual shipping cost (which is usually very cheap for something this small).

Programming a PIC is such a huge hurdle for so many compared to it's relatively small part in building a MIDIbox, I hate to see so many people get stuck at this step and lose their drive.....

Best!

SmashTV

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smash,

i would love to take you up on that offer, but unfortunately (at least in this sense) i live in italy; and so far i'm not desperate enough to send you the pics and wait, when i feel that i'm so close... the pic18f i bought from you in august is working perfectly!

so i'll let you know. but for anyone else who has successfully used broc18, anything?

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uhh i'm really sorry but i can't be of much help from here on... maybe check if anything was written to pic if you can read it.

when i got it to identify the PIC correctly everything worked okay for me. if i remember correctly. it's even possible that i got the same error you're getting but it worked at the end anyway. not sure though.

also - everywhere says you should use +3V  where you're using 4.5 from your LPT. maybe you should try again with the 2 x batteries... i really don't know.

if everything else fails we can arrange that you send the PICs to me and i'll program them for you and send them back. i'm from slovenia so that wouldn't be so awkward.

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Just stumbled upon this, and maybe, I won't have to build a JDM  ::)

The board's ready, just measured my port, it reads 4.5V. The manual of broccoli suggests to use the same voltage for Vdd, which makes sense, hence the logic out of the PIC cannot go higher than what it gets by the source. For 4.5V, I calculated 300 Ohms (and used 330).

Now, 9V is only needed when erasing the pic, right, since it's MCLR? Won't it be better to remove that voltage when actually burning?

And for wallwarts, I tried out some lying around, they suck :o one even delivered 8.5V when it should have 4.5V :o ok ok, without load, but still...

For the other, is 9.45V a ok voltage to erase? I think so, since any up to 13.5V should be ok for the PIC.

Let's throw in some live-distro and see if we can burn this...

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oh my god.

what can i say... well, I can say that I will never again think that computer behavior won't change with repetition.

The only changes I can say I've made from the above post to my success 5 minutes ago is this:

I removed the 10k resistor from pin RB5

I added another AAA battery to my chain to power MCLR so now I'm reading 11V from pin 1 to Vss.

I switched back to Win98 (i actually was about to try another pic programming software but decided "lets see, I'll try broccoli18 v.07 one more time")

Now? Success! And with probably the sloppiest pic programmer in the history of MB.

Here is the successful output for the mios_bootloader_v1.1b.hex (renamed boot0.hex here)

Detecting PIC,,, Found PIC18F452

Reading hex file...

Erasing memory from 0 to 32504...

Programming memory from 0 to 32504...

**(here it takes a good 3-4 minutes with cursor blinking whereas before it was returning the error within 20 seconds)**

Erasing ID locations...

Programming ID locations 0 to 8...

Programming ID configuration bytes 0-13...

Programming done.

Wisefire, if you havent sent off you pics yet, give it another shot! it'll dave you quasi-2 weeks of waiting

ImAlive, yeah, i screwed walwarts. totally off with the voltage. all my 9volts read at 14-16 volts.

I dont thin kyou should disconnect the MCLR from 9V when programming though, without MCLR attached broccoli18 wouldnt even recognize my pic.

broc.jpg

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Congrats tarzan boy  ;D

All right, in that case I'll just keep the ~9V. And I mounted the 10k-pulldown on RB5 too, time to remove it if it hinders success ::)

Ah, and since this was mentioned before, in my setup, I omitted the D2 and D3 lines. We'll see if this works later.

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And I mounted the 10k-pulldown on RB5 too, time to remove it if it hinders success ::)

Removing the 10k on RB5 -might- result in nothing on the display, not sure with this setup.

I',m not sure if a LVP programmer is really helpful, since it will disable pin RB5 for common use. This means that you won't be able to drive a LCD.

A quick search for "RB5 LCD" brings back more info....

Best!

Smash

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