novski

I will make pictures as soon as i can. @KUI: thats perfect. May you build uf the third board? I wold sugest to just place the parts you need to run the oleds. Leave out everything bevor J2. (No rectifier, LM317 and Pol-Cap. Then power it with 5V straight to the LF33. You will need Ic2 and the resistornetwork as well as his cap. But leave out the BC337 and the potentiometers 10k fur brightness and ilumosity. Maybe tat it will work then... Best regards Novski

i don't know if the following can be and if, how it can be. I got my PCBs yesterday and soldered them together as fast as i cold. What i now noticed is that a different core works. I measured al connections and can't find a difference, but it seams somehow that the core MBHP_CORE_LPC17 V1.0 that i have here on my table does not work and my fresh made core works. I then looked at the Video again and saw that the core in the right upper edge has a red solder mask color on it. So it seams that me and KUI are working with a Green one and TK with a red. I realy can't tell what the difference between my two cores is but i can load all of the software in this post that is still linked and it works correct. (the links from apps older than mid Nov. are not available anymore...) I think the best i can do is pack my stuf in a pack and send it to TK. @TK do you have a Green MBHP_CORE_LPC17 V1.0 Core? best regards novski

maybe off topic: wasn't there once a guy who found a fail routed (or not connected) Net on the SmashTV LPC17 Core? what connection was it? I can't find that topic it anymore. I has happened to be January 2013 or sometime around that...

Hi TK. My prototype is on the way to me. Cant't take long anymore... as soon i have it, i will test. best regards novski

I sat down today and made a 3D model of a Button fitting my purposes perfect. I never done a 3D Model before so it was also a Training... But i thought it wold be nice to hear what other People think about it... It measures 20x20mm and the Cap wold be 15x15mm Thanks for feedback novski

Hi Sauraen I compared the two spec Sheets of ULN2803 and TD62083APGON. I use the ULN2803... Thats very interesting because i coldn't find a difference beside price. Can you tell me why you selected it? - im just curious... At least in the Swiss Mouser Store the ULN2803A is cheaper... (i assume the prices can vary between countries.) http://ch.mouser.com/ProductDetail/STMicroelectronics/ULN2803A/?qs=sGAEpiMZZMvAvBNgSS9LqpP7ived4CP2 best regards novski

Ilmenator says it right. DIY is no money saver. For USB connection i recomend to get a LPC17 Core instead. http://ucapps.de/mbhp_core_lpc17.html http://www.midibox-shop.com The most expensive parts will be the Motorfaders. 8 Motorfaders will cost already 50% the price a BCF2000 wold cost... link to reichelt but the fun you will have is not payable... :-) best regards novski

cold it be because of the open pin 9? edit: no its QA (pin15) behaving strange...

Hi TK. Im located in Switzerland. I cold send you my pcb but im afraid you woldn't understand because its a battlefield. Im not happy with my layout and with al the tests i tried to make it became worse... But as i mentioned above i made a new and more flexible layout. Its in production now. With that i will be able to make more accurate suggestions as i did until now. It should arrive me mid. Dezember 2013. just a view on my opstacle: https://www.dropbox.com/s/lurw2m1fln4e6z3/2013-11-30%2013.15.27.jpg Do you have more than 12 OLEDs? Because i think, KUI and me, both only have this problem when trying to connect more then 12 OLEDs over an additional shift-register... I wold be able to provide you additional 5-8 OLEDs. Much more i wold rather wait and send you a Test PCB all together with them... this is it: https://www.dropbox.com/s/8t99mgr11zbx8d4/Screenshot%202013-11-30%2012.55.53.png It provides a connector to Official J15A. And a Connector with slightly different pining than J28, - witch provides DC, D0, D1, SDA, SC, RC, 3V3, GND over 10pin DIL Header proprietary. :-) Are you able to wait so long? best regards novski

Hallo Erzähl doch noch etwas mehr über deine Anwendung. In Cubase könntest du doch sicherlich den Kanal auch Muten... Liebe Grüsse Novski

You need: 16 Faders 2 MF_NG Modules 1 Core Modul 1 LPC1769 Im not shure but think the max. Faders is 32 in the Midibox_ng App by now... So if you want to get 48 in the final you have to use a different Protocol then Motormix and maybe the old LC App? It. can be found here: http://www.ucapps.de/midibox_lc.html Best regards Novski

Hi TK. we had a misunderstanding im sorry for that. I have a HC version and tested it. But all the displays stay dark. I can't locate my falure but im shure that there is a miss connection somewhere. Give me a day or two. I will look another time over that as soon as possible. Because my PCB i so complicated its hard to solve it. does KUI's display work now? best regards novski

make shure to get the right ones. I have in mind that there exist different types. One is flattened and one has a knurled end...

maybe this can help you... best regards novski

Yes. i found a sample in the LPC17 schematic... by the way, i understand this as the HCT is not compatible to 3.3V objects. Its necessary to use a HC type in our case... source: http://www.ti.com/lit/ds/schs189c/schs189c.pdf best regards

Hi. I did this test as you mentioned. First. The schematic is wrong. if i measure between VSS and VDD like it is drawn the Resistance is 490 Ohm. Not possible. so i looked at the data sheet and assume Pin 10 is GND, Pin 20 supply voltage. Pin 1&19 has to go to GND. like that no display works at my side. all are dark. i disconnected display 9-16. it cold be that my 74HC541N is not the same as you mentioned (74HCT541) TK. can you verify me the schematic? i use 74HC595B1 best regards novski

well yes. Im almost done with a better layoutet pcb. I will send it to manufactory this weekend. so i will have to put down working on this and wait for the new pcb wich i think will give me answers about those always changing problems. I don't get rid of the thought that this is caused by my bad layout.The new one will be more broad in all. Some things i done today: The termination issue was gone as i connected the DSO probe so i tried to reproduce a probe with a 1M and Parallel 33pF and that helped for about 2 times re-powering. Then i had the same again. So i tried to solder big wires to the GND of the Displays witch did not help. I tried to put 33pF in parallel to GND on several lines what helped by DC but just for a certain operation time... after about 2min i have those werd spreading and flip over again. Thats why i started over with a new Layout. I will take up this thread as soon as i have the new layout. Thanks for your effort. best regards novski update: im using a 74HC595B1 i will test that buffer soon.

TK. how did you make test? I tryed to look at the D0,D1,DC signals as you did by the core and at the end of the line. But i cant isolate a pulse like i see it on your fotos... In not sure what app i need to load to test the signals, or even what signals are relevant... Im sorry for my amateur questions.. best regards novski

the osx link is posted above... you need windows? best regards novski

I just noticed a difference between two schematics i don't understand. My IC2 has the serial output (pin 9) open. Do i have to connect that pin somewhere? To terminate it? I see that this register is somehow working different than a normal DOUT. Does this usage of IC2 have a name i can google? best regards novski

@ Duggle: back to the question about CRO. wich one wold you go for: - better to have a 150MHz @ 2 GHz or a 200MHz @ 1GHz. Thats the choices in within my budget... :rolleyes: best regards novski

@ TK. Just tested it. sorry for delay... i can not tell. My displays somtimes work sometimes not. I realy can't tell whats when... @ Duggle. Yes and no. I tend to say my error is exactly invers. Powering off for more than 10sek. is better in my case... else i have corrupted text and dots all over... @both. I will try to get a scope. that will take a day or 2... best regards novski

Hi TK. I Tested v1.027 pre5 and had dark screens on Display 4&6: It also didn't refresh the screens after upload. so that the demo-text (SSD1306 #1-8...) stayed while the text from my .ngc file overwrote just the necessary dots... Also a reset command through terminal did not change the text on the displays. After re-power it worked, but display 4&6 always stay dark in my case. @Duggle, my displays work with 3,3V and have a separate LF33 for each 8 displays. Both J2 (Display 1-8 and Display 9-16) are supplied by a 5V/10A Mean Well switched supply source. best regards novski

For Documentation 8 of my OLED SSD1306 need 108mA @ 5V/J2.

KUI can you make a test with the Test app. http://www.ucapps.de/tmp/mios32_test_app_lcd_ssd1306_LPC1769_16OLEDs.zip I had the same today. I did not recognize that fact that i can repower within a short time to make them work... I wold like to know if you have spreading text or flipping over top edge like i have with this app... https://www.dropbox.com/s/rxliw8hf98g84sy/2013-10-31%2007.35.42.jpg https://www.dropbox.com/s/gj4u8a8o4oqhp19/2013-10-31%2007.36.24.jpg Thanks novski