NorthernLightX

Have a nice vacaton Wilba, no sweat, nobody is going anywhere in the meantime ;)

I would do it if I weren't so busy on other things right now... I'm in Holland, and could assist if anyone would want to lead the project...

Only once before did I see a red soldermask on a PCB, and that was my GUS MAX soundcard. Red Roxxx ;D

This weekend we tested the thing extensively with guitar and basguitar, and a few quirks came to light: - The M5218AL opamp I used is not so suitable as an overdrive opamp - The potmeters I used for my test setup could be a bit dodgy Also some things in the clipping section were changed, as can be seen in the new version of the schematic. R5 was reduced to 10K, and the soft/hard clipping routing was altered. In the previous version the switch could select overdrive or soft clipping, and the pot could turn to hard clipping. Now the switch selects between soft and hard clipping, and to pot turns to standard overdrive, much better now ;D. I also adjusted the wiring of the output jack as per TheProf's advice. I did not put in the suggested resistor, because clipping to ground has a nice sound, and if you want to be gentle to your opamp just don't turn the pot all the way. I already uploaded the latest version of the schematic in borth Eagle and .PNG, docs will follow shortly. Cheers, Alex. P.S. The current version is most suitble for guitar. In the near future, when the stompbox is finished, we will make some small adaptions to make it more suitable for synth use. Things to consider are: - reduce imput impedance to 10K instead of 1M, to reduce unwanted noise - leave out the Tone section and Volume section, because a mixer can do this much better with it's EQ and Gain setting - make the thing stereo Oh by the way, the opamp picked instead of the M5218AL is the TL082. [edit] Reminder: you have to press F5 to see the revised image in the tread. I also uploaded the revised docs just now.

Hi Seppo, I would love to have cutoff and resonance knobs on my small SIDbox to directly control the external filter. Would it be better for me to build the fonik board for that and use 2 pots, or is there a way to achieve something similar with your board? I don't mind using encoders, as long as I only have to mount 2 of them. (I'm also builing Wilba's box so I want this small box to be a bit custom with minimal controls). AOUT board looks good, rumours about more boards from you sound very good too :D Cheers, Alex.

Aren't CCFL tubes extremely noisy electrically speaking, and therefore very unwanted in your synth enclosure?

I totally forgot to mail you, I just sent you a PM and an email, hop I'm still in time :-[

Computer powersupplies (switching powersupplies the'ye called) give VERY noisy output, you'll hear it on the sound output of the SID. I wouldn't do it. ....I have some spare PCB's from my PSU project, if you're interested drop me a PM.

All gone ;D

I didn't even know there was a fucking profanity filter :o [edit] Whoops, must be only working in the chat :D

I believe that not TK but Ian Hurlock destroyed that pile of C64. Anyway, I too have killed some C64's for SIDs in the past. The C64's were often partly broken and/or cigarette smoked, so I don't feel guilty at all ;D

To hijack this thread even further (I'm sorry Sasha ;) ): Seppoman, are you also going to do a PCB with your new AOUT and the SSM filters together? ;D ;D

I was referring to the C64 term PRESS PLAY ON TAPE adding that to the bootscreen would be quite cool ;) I have enough problems thinking up names for my own projects, let alone thinking of names for others. Why don't you just let it as is, 6581 is nice enough?

"Press Play" would be a nice name ;D or else something involving the original type number of the datasette, that's 1530.

1) Yes, a single Cora and SID combo will probably work with 1A on 12v. Put a good heatsink on your 7805. 2) Yes, as long as you do not leave out any components from the schematic. 3) That's right. 3a) No, the SID board is powered by both 5v AND 9v for 8580/6582 SID or 5v AND 12v for 6581 SID. There is extensive information on the SID module page on uCapps, please read it again ;) Cheers, Alex. P.S. .BRD file of my PSU has been delayed a bit, probably this week (am redecorating the house, lotsa stuff boxed up right now, including my NAS).

We all love you Wilba, please stay sane indeed ;)

I want at least 1, but am asking in the Dutch part of the forum for people who also want to order, to combine shipping from you to us. Saves packaging, saves costs. ;)

Beste mensen, er zullen een aantal Nederlanders wat spulletjes uit de PCB koker van Wilba hebben besteld, en wellicht nog wat aanvulende zaken bestellen zoals frontpanels, LCD schermpjes, knopjes en meer van dat soort handel. Nu is verzenden vanuit verre oorden nogal prijzig, en loont het mogelijk de moeite om alles in 1 te versturen naar NL en het hier verder te verdelen. Mocht daar interesse voor zijn doe dan een postje in deze thread. Ik verwacht WiseFire en Twin-X wel te horen, maar misschien zijn er Nederlanders die ik nog niet ken die ook willen meeliften. Enkele voorwaarden voor mensen waar ik nog geen zaken mee heb gedaan: - Als betaling aan de organisator van de betreffende Groupbuy nodig is regel je dat waar mogelijk zelf. - Als ik iets moet betalen (verzendkosten binenn NL bijvoorbeeld) dan betaal je dat vooruit aan mij. Ik hoor het wel, groetjes.

You only have to change the transformer and the fuse, but those are not part of the schematic anyway. I have the PSU running over here for a SID step A (minial control surface), but have not been able to test it with a huge load (extra LEDS, Cores, and SIDs). I think it works fine. The .brd file does of course exist, the pictures in the tread are made of it. I will add them to the tread tonight so you can fiddle with them. A note on the VCF thing: CEM filters like +12v and -5v, so you'll have to add something that regulates the -5v. Cheers, Alex.

The CAN bus of MidiBox SID V2 can organize the connections between the master core and the slaves. Keep in mind that it is only possible to use 4 "modules", and each "module holds 2 SIDs. If you want to make the modules "swappable" you have to arrange a male/female connector who interconnect when you slide the modules in. To sum things up: Is it possible? - yes Is it achievable? - I deem it very hard for someone with no DIY experience. A better option would be to order Wilba's base PCB for 8 SIDs, and then make your own control surface with the minimal controls you would want to use. It will probably end up not looking like that Yamaha module at all in that way, but will be more useable on the other hand. Cheers, Alex.

Hi, I just noticed I made an error in a previous post, where I wrote J10 and meant J15, which is the LCD port. I'm not sure If J10 is a 100% pin-match with J2 of the SID board. Check the schematics, if they match, a ribbon cable will work. You only need 4 datawires though, and a 5v power supply wire. If you want to keep things minimal: find yourself a C64 powerbrick and wire that up according to the available schematics. Powersupplies are about the simpelst electronics projects, so if you do not feel confident about adapting this schematic for yourself I can only advise you to use the C64 brick. Powering everything from a single wallwart is also an option but I think your 7805 (regulator on the core) will get very hot. Feel free to try though. Cheers, Alex.

Oh c'mon you must score about as much as I according to Wilba's table, plus I think you score at least 100 bonus for hosting the forum and all :)

A separate powersupply, or a powersupply which delivers 2 voltages. The latter can either be an external, or internal (transformers in the case so you still need only 1 powercable), but in both cases you'll probably be making it yourself. Toroid transformers give the cleanest power. A third option is to work with a voltage divider or power resistor. Have you found my PSU design? It uses power resistors to reduce the power in front of the lower voltage regulators. Any connector can work if mated withe the right PSU, it's your project, you decide what to use. I soldered a male SIL heared to my LCDs with a female SIL header to a cable, to be able to swap LCD's easily. When making the cable pay attention to the way the CAN bus is wired. I have no idea how crowded your box is going to be, and if the extra length is going to be a problem.

12V is very much enough. Keep in mind that the 5v regulator can get very hot if you put a backlit screen and a lot of leds in the box and let the 7805 regulate 12v to 5v for all of them. For a 8580 only project I'd choose a 10Vac tranformer, and if possible a separate 5v. If you want to run it all from a single transformet you can take a look at, and possibly modify, my own PSU design which you can find by looking through my old posts. PCB mount powerconnectors for Smash's boards do not exist as far as I know. If you really fancy a PCB mount connector you can put it on a piece of veroboard and solder wires to the core board. If you're making your Own PSU just place it on the same board as your PSU components go on. You'll need to make all your cables yourself. If you plan to use SID V2 some pins of J15 are used for the CAN bus so you can't use a standard 2x8 flatcable. Happy building! @midiboxxer: you're describing a panel mount connector, not a PCB mount. I agree panel mount is much easier to use.

Better to follow Stryd's example and just keep writing lots and lots of posts ;D I'm curious how TK would rank to these standards.