[Drilling Plexiglass]

Yeah, I was reading some stuff on it last night. There's actually a bit specifically for plexi, which may be ground like that, but I've done alright with sharp cheap ones. In woodworking, I've had to resort to the high speeds when my bits weren't sharp enough. It creates more of a smooth "grinding" of a hole, rather than shaving the material out. Unlike Norm Abram, I keep a full arsenal of dull bits. ;)

Most of the stuff did seem to recommend the slower speeds and Kangoo's finding on the support piece was emphasized as well. There was also a tip about getting cleaner holes by drilling most of the way through and then flipping the piece to finish the hole from the opposite side.

It can also apparently be bent around corners with a heat gun (could be interesting).

-George

[Do the MIOS OS bundles compile for all you guys?]

the file seems to be the same! lol I can't remember what was the problem...

Oh, the magic of MPASM! :D

I've had places where I change something, it ruins the compile and the error file blows up like a balloon. Then, nothing I do could please MPASM, including an undo of the one or two minor changes which ruined the file. I'd have to revert back to a backup copy. I think I've also had it complain when the processor was specified by the pulldown, but it was already specified in the source.

The pathlength issue is a bit sloppy by itself. You would think a company who developed microprocessors and dealt in assembler, would observe better "error reporting" habits than that, but they've provided us with lots of neat toys, so I guess we shouldn't complain. ;)

-George   

[Drilling Plexiglass]

Kangoo,

It shouldn't do that, and I don't think there are special bits. There may be ones with certain rake angles which are better for that purpose than others (sort of like the metal bits), but if you're using a fairly sharp new bit, it should cut through. The plastic should swirl out of the cut in a long spiral shaped sliver.

My problems with it are the exact opposite. It tends to goo up from the heat, even if I slow the drill down to minimum. I usually take out a little, and back the bit out so it can cool down and the hot trash can fly off, and then take a little more until I'm through. Drilling is actually one of the easier, due to the slow speeds.

-George

FWIW- I'm using a small press. If you're going by hand, make sure you keep a nice perpendicular angle and don't press too hard. I guess the smaller "pilot hole" techniques for larger holes also apply to plexi.

[Do the MIOS OS bundles compile for all you guys?]

BTW--

Being as the original unmodified source will error like this for both 1.7 & 1.8, is it possible that he's using something other than Microchip's compiler?

When I first got into this stuff, I was wondering if there was something (source editor) which provided direct links from the listed variables, functions, etc., to their original definitions,etc. Like, in a big multiple .h/.inc project, when you see a name being used in the code, is there an easy way to figure out where it was created, so you can see what it actually does? I've now found and used the "find in project files" item, but MPLAB doesn't really know the difference between the creation and the use of the files, and you have to select/copy the text, pull the find dialog, paste it in, go to the output window and look for it. I guess that's as good as it gets.

-George

PS- (Pilo) That last post did indeed fix it, it was in the source file length :)   

[Do the MIOS OS bundles compile for all you guys?]

check if the path name/length isn't too long

Yeah, I figured that out after my first few MPASM fights ;)

I usually keep all the stuff I'm playing with in a "MIOSAPPS" folder in the root with nice short names for all the individual folders.

Newsflash! I think I've found it. I took the "END" label all the way past a bunch of empty lines to line 129 (where MPLAB listed the error) and it compiled (at home anyway). I assume that means that the source file needs to be a specific length?? 

                                                     -George

Error[129]   C:\SRC\MAIN.ASM 2 : Expected (END)

[Bootloading Question - MIOS crash...]

I've screwed mine up a couple times too. AFAIK, the bootloader IS the real PIC programmer job. If that gets screwed up, it's out of the socket for a re-load. :'(   - I wouldn't think any of these tweaks could kill the PIC either.

If you haven't already, try that method where you throw it something right when the first row of blocks shows up at power on. I doubt that will work, but it's worth a shot.

-George

PS- You know MIOS is at v1.8, right?

[testing Midibox64 firmware - questions]

Yeah, I went through the same thing for the same reasons. It's a hard way to test :'(

As Raphael mentions, just follow all the notes here on "empty pins" with the individual IC pins and the PIC pins, and make sure the app is modified for this minimal config. -- Make sure the last 165 (button) IC out is pulled to 5v (pin#10). The last 595 (LED) pin (pin#9) can hang open. The PIC pins for any missing 4051's need to be grounded (pins 2,3,4,5 & 7,8,9,10). I did this at the empty sockets, by jumping the output pin (#3) to one of the grounds (6,7,8). Do the same with the unused pins of the 4051's which you are using (pins 1,2,4,5 & 12-15).

                                -Someone here, please correct any of this if it's wrong.

Good Luck! 

[Multi-Tap Toggles]

Hello again,

I realize Thorsten is very busy these days, but if he or anyone else has the time and knowhow to make MIOS enhancements, I think some of us could use this one:

An additional button behavior option with a user defined "value divisor". For instance, in the multitoggle mode with a divisor of three, the button would have three states and the output value of the button message would step between values at 0,63, and 127. If the divisor was four you'd get outputs of 0,31,63, and 127 and so on.

I keep running into plug parameters which will accept continuous messages, but whose functions aren't very well suited for such controls. I think that even all the two pole on/off toggles will accept a fader message, but they just flip at 64. It doesn't make such controls very easy to visualize. I'm trying to merge some EQ plug mapping into my MB64 cue mixer design and it's full of parameters like different HP/LP filter slopes and I,II,III EQ type settings. Most of the VST compressors I use are the same way.

With my limited assembler knowledge, I'm not real sure how difficult that would be right now, but unless I'm overlooking something, it doesn't seem too horrible- Start at zero and add (127/the divisor setting) with each button press, flipping back to zero if >127. I'll check some of my plugs to see what they actually output in such cases. If they return these same type of fixed values, which could be used to activate LED indicators, it would be ideal.

-I wouldn't expect this option to be part of the main defaults, but maybe something which could be edited within the .ini file or somewhere for those who needed it.

- Thanks for listening!

George

PS- Wrote this at the studio and checked the plugs. They do indeed output these values. They will also throw them all out as an init message when the session is opened if the generic remote map is correct. What was also cool, is that with a plug parameter from the "selected channel" mapped to a MIDIBox toggle item, the values for every mapped plug parameter will be output for each channel as you select it. This would allow you to create a "virtual channel strip" MIDIBox with your favorite EQ, Comp, Gate or whatever, using identical channel inserts in a template. You could lay the controls out exactly like the plugs, with knobs for the continuous stuff and buttons + labeled LED's for the other settings, then access a whole mixer's worth, using a single channel and a pair of navigation arrows or some channel select buttons. Use rotary encoders with LED rings for the knobs, a big-ass motorized fader for the volume and a labeled button/LED matrix for channel selection, and you've got the one-man compact mixer of the future. 8) 

           

[An idea and the understanding of a retarded wet noodle...]

Does that mean  you loaded the mpc o.s. and everything

Nooooooo! I'm not one of those guys, I just try to build their stuff. ;) That thing wasn't worth messing with after the Peavey sampler fell through. It was just something I was thinking about. I started off just wanting a really nice MPC style trigger to MIDI interface, and then realized I would have to tote an SR-16 or something to record anything and I'd still be tied to a computer or module for extra sounds. I probably would have gone for a MIDIBoxSeq or something along with the pads. I'd still really like one, I've just got too many projects to jump into it right now.

-George   

[MIOS Studio Beta Release]

Hey again Adam,

I actually stayed home the past three nights to catch up on some stuff here and just made it to the studio tonight (where the box is). That last one worked great out there for the few minutes that I used it. The way you describe it, the wrap thing should be cured now :) That was the only significant thing I really noticed in it. The words would extend past the edges and show up at the beginning of the first column on the MB. As long as you can't enter anything that you can't see on the virtual display, it should be great!

Only other really minor thing was that it would occasionally let the current MB page flash through for a second or so while it was in message loop mode. - Not really a problem for layout tests.

                                         I'll have this new one with me tomorrow night.

-Thanks again for the app!     

[bootstrap source code? for a real midibox emulator (PIC + other hardware)]

Yeah, I like the breadboards too and I keep ordering more. It always seems all the cool parts have to hog up that middle section where the sides are split, otherwise pins end up bridged together, then of course you're wasting all those nice holes on either side of the strip. >:(

I'm thinking of doing an etched board with a crapload of cheap tact switches and cheap LED's (along with their 220 ohm resistors), with a pin header or some solid copper leads hanging off of it that could be inserted in the breadboard. Lots of work for temporary test junk, but if someone had shown up at my door with one a few nights ago, I probably would have traded him my car or something.  ;)

-George

[An idea and the understanding of a retarded wet noodle...]

It sounds like a lot of work, but should be possible. The pad latency you mention would be determined by the speed of the "brain" part of the trigger interface (MIDIBox/eDrum PIC circuit). I was reading on that a while back and it seemed like it was on par with most commercial modules in that regard, but I'm not sure. You should stick some external trigger jacks on there too if you've got the free inputs. Also make sure you handle the EMI/RFI shielding for everything, if you end up gutting a computer or something. All that metal in the case is there for a reason. I run my main computers with no case in a pair of isolation cabinets, and I had to line the whole inside with grounded sheet metal.

For the optimum speed or throughput with multiple circuits like that, you may want to ask here if there are benefits to the "direct to COM" option which Thorsten has here. I was thinking about checking on that as well.

Your theory on the sampler half is correct. I've got a K2500R here, and I can't even remember how to use it ;) In fact, half the time, I won't even need a software sampler and I do mostly loop based production. Nuendo can handle most of it from the project window as audio clips.

                                                              -Good Luck

PS- I had recently wanted the exact same device, but ended up thinking of an LCD based version without an actual host PC. I wanted a custom version of an MPC type rig in a custom anvil style case with a cheap sampler's guts, a trigger to MIDI circuit, and some form of sequencer. I mainly wanted it as a heavy duty drum machine which I could do SMDI transfers to and could load up with all the popular drum machine noises (perfect job for a Peavey DPM SP). Well, instead of a DPM, I got a "DOA" SP, so the operation is on hold until I can find out if it's fixable. (damn that thing's got a big motherboard!)

PS PS--  And welcome to the forum! :)

[Looking for a special case]

http://www2.okw.com/katdetail.asp?Gruppe=Pultgehäuse&Nummer=ST3380

Cool sites!  This thing here especially-

http://www2.okw.com/katedetail.asp?SNR=A9085165&Nummer=ST3380&Typ=0

Looks like the top just cries out for a wide LCD.

[Do the MIOS OS bundles compile for all you guys?]

I've been trying to learn my way around the app tweaking/assembler thing to suit my hardware and LCD and I've been randomly changing different things to see how they looked.

I've noticed that MIOS 1.8 and 1.7 throw an MPLAB error at me on compile attempts. The minimal error log I've been able to get is a complaint about the expected "END" line in the main file, and they never actually compile. This is with no changes at all to the files, and it errors in 7.2(?) under XP&2K and a version 6.x under 98SE. The precompiled hex file appears to work just fine.

Is there a pref or something I'm missing?

-George

[MIOS clock Reliability? Does it keep time?]

That does sound cool! I wished for that myself a while back, but I'm way way far from it in my assembler skills. I'll be running a MIDIMon for the MTC/Clock display most of the time and have wished I could switch it for use as a wall or desk clock too.

- Good Luck

George 

[Physical Object carving/moulding software/service combo]

I know Moxi has some stuff on buttons in the Parts Archive forum (DIY illuminated buton, Datawheel for the MIDIbox Community). I've got a thread on fiberglass (I think in the Tips and Tricks forum). There are also box(es?) in the gallery using similar designs. I need to start doing smaller stuff like Moxi's. It makes more sense to make caps to fit a cheap acquired part than to try to find them.

Duplicating the switch/fader shafts for the female molding is the main part that frightens me.

I really like the fiberglass. I'm figuring it also has potential for making extensions or mods to existing plastic bodies.

-George 

[MIDIbox of the Week (MBSID of pwx)]

Direct toner transfer on Lexan is probably a bad idea.

Too late. Already melted it :D

I went out back and grabbed a chunk of that (1/4") and a nearby scrap of some granite looking Formica laminate. Both took the label surprisingly well (a PCB layout), but the clear plastic started "gooing up" on me and now has some spots with perfect traces and others with a bunch of little bubble looking specks, sort of like shattered safety glass. I'm almost wondering if lower heat or less time would have worked, but it's not a priority and I guess I'll be cleaning the iron before I do anything else with it. I do however want to try to get some print on some clear red plastic lens material. I'll be reading up on that site you listed, but it looks like a machine as well as the transfer material.

I've intentionally melted (postformed) the countertop material before, for studio furniture. The melting, or rather, "blistering" point is pretty high. I've got a book on it somewhere. I'm not even sure if you squashed down on it with something flat, that it would do anything wrong. It's usually being squashed around a tight radius while it's heated. I had to blast it with a heat gun in one spot to get the plastic to bubble. I think the pressure and heat is part of how it's actually made anyway :)

I've baked a bunch of paints on metal, but I didn't really know what I was doing. Everything worked OK at random time/temperatures, with the exception of some white handles I baked too long which turned sort of beige.

What is TRF?                                -Take Care

George

[MIDIbox of the Week (MBSID of pwx)]

Davo, thanks for the great paint tips :D

I coincidentally did most of the wet sanding stuff you recommend initially. I was experimenting with different sheens. For the painted stuff I was thinking about, I was figuring I'd have to go with steel or something, and I hate the junk. It always gives me ragged edges around the holes and I'd have to bump it down to a real thin sheet as well. I didn't know you could paint the aluminum. I'd much prefer that. The clear I needed to do on this was just to protect the lettering afterward, and I'll need something that would adhere a bit to the aluminum/toner, yet wouldn't immediately melt all my labels (if sprayed lightly). Does any of the baking stuff for hardening the coats apply to aluminum?

I'm so happy with it, I'm even thinking of trying the toner transfer on some Lexan (Plexiglass/Acrylic stuff), but I'm not sure what the melting point of the plastic would be. I'm also wondering if ironing toner to a painted or plastic surface would have better (or worse) results, since the toner sort of melts and fuses to the substrate anyway. Maybe it would increase the grip and make it easier to transfer(?). The remaining paper sort of turns to mush in the water and gets rubbed off.

-George

PS- I think I'm in love with this aluminum crap! My square knockout punch bit right through it, making a nice clean hole and a perfect fit for the 12mm buttons. I even did a larger square hole by punch +jigsaw and files. The plate reminds me of a big old GLi radio station type rackmount DJ mixer I had (high class potential).   - It measures to be .15 inches thick   

[bootstrap source code? for a real midibox emulator (PIC + other hardware)]

I think you mean if it doesn't work?

Sorry pilo, I just noticed this reply.

No I do mean if it *does* :'(  I felt like I sat around forever tracing connections and building some jumble of fragile wires across three different breadboards just to get about 25% of the parts I'll need for my box running and to try out some app adjustments. The pushbuttons I've got on there have to be hit with a small screwdriver to avoid knocking any connections loose and there aren't even enough buttons >:(  I'll most likely etch my own boards for the controls I use and they'll have to be in the actual positions that I go with. I'm almost wishing I had built a few cheap multi button/light/pot boards with ribbons soldered to them just to keep around for testing (I'm running the Greg board with all my IC's on a single PCB).

-George     

[LEDs on/off via MIDI]

shmuu102,

Assuming you're running a fairly current Cubase and the "generic" remote-

If you pull up the generic editor window where you assign all your controls, in the top (source) columns, each item has flag parameters you can change over on the right. They default to "R" or receive, but you can add the "T" or transmit capability to any of them, and they'll send their changes back out from Cubase as well. There's also a "relative" encoder type setting, maybe for jog/shuttles or something.

Don't feel bad, I've been on Nuendo since v.1 and I just figured out it could do that a few weeks ago :-[

-George

[LED types and appearances]

i got mine off of ebay from the user "vdehkl"

Man, that guy's got WAY too much stuff. I think I've seen him on there a bunch. I've been on a buying spree lately and need to slow back down. It's 5:30am here (I'm east coast too) and I just got so sick of looking at stuff I grabbed a cheap multi pack of 3mm's and am calling it a night.

I may actually need small ones to keep from making the panel too crowded. I may be going for a variety of colors (maybe even the oranges and blues), but I like the look I arrived at for the rest of the design and I don't want it looking too obnoxious. It's got sort of an industrial, simple, "control panel" style. The smooth solid 5mm ones may even be too bold, but maybe not in the 3mm. I'll probably figure it out over the next few days and maybe go back and check out the hong konger.

Screaming Rabbit - Thanks! I see that "diffused" thing all the time and never made the connection ;)

-George

[LED types and appearances]

I'm getting ready to track down a batch of lights. Most of what I've used have been of unknown spec and origin.

I'm partial to the type that have the nice, smooth, solid color when lit, as opposed to the ones that look like a light inside some plastic. Is there a spec or name that designates those or is that usually the difference between the colored lens and the clear?

I'll probably go 5mm for some and 3 for others in red, green, yellow and maybe blue. I'm under dimmed recessed ceiling lights, so the brightness probably won't matter if they look solid, but I have no idea what the mcd values amount to in the real world.

-Thanks

George   

[encoder questions]

Sorry if this comes through twice-

... those are membrane switches: Mostly made out of one piece of silicone.

I *think* he's talking about the jogwheel cap(?)

I haven't seen them, but I'll keep an eye out for them. (never needed one). My JLCooper CS-10 has a solid chunk of anodized milled aluminum with that finger detention as well as a set screw. You can spin it real fast and let go, and it will keep going. I pulled off my Peavey 1600X's knob and it was lightweight plastic crap with a "D" fitting. They all probably look about the same though.

[MIOS Studio Beta Release]

I haven't left yet. It all makes sense now. It is indeed going by the MIOS Studio window size like you say. I had the app maximized and it was a lot better. It doesn't seem to blow right back up if you've had it in too small a window and switch (but so what). It also looks like the h/w settings aren't available after there's text in the box (another so what) and I can still get invisible text or chopped off text if I'm off the side or bottom.

So I guess you're saying the "return" to the next line is what the MIDIBox will agree with (I'll see in a little while). If you could get it to smash into the borders without running past that would be cool too.

-Thanks a lot!

PS- I personally won't need the "current cursor" right now.

[A good hardware forum . .]

I've read the same lately (don't know why I was looking). There are specialty cards that support most of them digitally. There are also supposed to be a few that take a regular VGA input, but they're probably more money and harder to find.

- Google should turn up something if you're still interested. It was a pretty common question when I looked (mostly gamers,etc.)