Steven_C

Nat, Let me know if you can't find anything local, I could post you some, should be able to post pieces in an envelope to you!

very nice of you, Ian, I dunno if I can be bothered pulling it out of my LC and changing it!! (I connected it to a spare button ;))

;) he he, now you get it ;) Thorsten, what is that monster you are building?? Is it like one of the new mackie control for plugins?

I probably shouldn't have recommended that people pull apart and modify the encoders from Ian, as this is very difficult, and the button on one of mine dosen't work which is probably because of the modification??? but apart from that I am happy with the encoders from Ian, considering the excellent value for money. Mine are working well on my LC. (apart from the one with the dodgy button, but I can live with that!) If anyone is concerned for the best quality encoders, then you can't go past the alps... very easy to remove the detent, they feel just like real pots!! (or buy non-detented version) only they are very expensive, unless you are friends with Nat! as for 1/4" knobs on 6mm shaft, I just wrapped a small piece of electrical tape around the curved part of the shaft, before tightening the grubscrew, works fine, and its concentric!

Hey, Construction for most people takes a while, depending on the complexity of the project you are undertaking. I have a fair amount of experience (14 years as a hobby) and to build the LC took me about 3-4 months of my spare time!! What will you be using your midibox for? Controlling hardware or software?? Knowing this will help us to point you in the right direction... good luck, and have fun!!!

have you tried another PC?

pick up the parts when you walk the dog!! ;) I think I'll move to Sweden now!! ;D

this looks like a vgectorboard made by TK, from before he had access to PCB's. Have a look at my midibox photos in the gallery, or also in the midibox of the week thread, to see how I mounted the LED's and buttons, I ran wires straight from the back of the vectorboard to header pins on the PCB's good luck, from Steve ;)

wouldn't it be nice! ;) maybe you might find something on ebay?

excuse my laziness, but how many analogue inputs can you get out of a single sblive??

Very funny Xcen!! ::)..... Rowan, where did you get the circuit? are there any resources on the net for designing op-amp circuits, on a basic level that you know of?? bye, from Steve

Hey Ian, I think Thorsten has been having trouble with his free webspace, he was asking if anyone knew of other free providers, (not tripod) so you've been working on your studio eh? Well have fun!! ;D bye, from Steve

....probably! I was given the files by someone else, who created them on FCpro... one of those 'emergency' student projects that didn't get in on time.... :'( ;) oh well! But I'm just trying to figure it out for next time!!! (it wasn't my student project, but a friends, actually) anyway, I will find out if I can do the conversion at college or something... thanks capt Hast!

Hey Cap'n nice, quick response! thanks! I think I need quicktime pro to do that? ...Steve

Hey guys, quite off-topic, but I get lots of assignments at college, where I have to edit the sound for quicktime movies, and the quicktimes I get given often will not work on a pc... they will only work on a Mac, which is a bit of a pain, it means I can't use my Logic 5 PC machine, (Cubasis VST won't work either) I have to work on the projects on Pro-Tools free on my Mac, along with its limitations, and any .mov file I make in protools free won't work on a pc, even after I install the latest versions of directX, quicktime (pc) and other stuff. Also, quicktimes exported from Pro-tools LE 6 (Mac) won't work on pc either... (tried this at college) And stuff from Final Cut Pro won't work on pc. (some wierd .mov tvc varient or something) I'm sure this is all engineered by Apple to make it difficult for pc users, (though its kinda wierd that the protools stuff gives problems, considering that their s/w is cross platform) so I was wondering if anyone knows of some software application to convert the movies made on a mac, so it will work on a pc?? thanks, and if anyone can tell me a better forum to place these questions on, then that would be great too!! bye, from Steve :+)

Hey Dr B, if you can use 16x2, Dick Smith carry an LED backlit (green) device that worked fine for me, but for AUS$38 it is very expensive!!!

BTW on the subject of etching.... I have been using press'n'peel, which works well if you have a photocopier that is in pristine condition... most of my efforts needed a lot of cleaning up with a sharp knoife. In future I will be ordering my pcb's from you smash, or the other guy... mike i think? I'm sick of sharpening 0.8mm drills all the time!! (HSS) ...Steve

nice work guys! Hey David, I like the buttons around the jog wheel!

:+) thanks Thorsten! That was helpful!

yeah, very nice!! is the big rectangular hole so you can run a Glcd as well?? well done!

I think center pin was ground... other pins will reverse direction if swapped...

Hey Dan, My LC takes just over 1.5 turns, using the encoders from Ian, 0-127. Standard settings. I find this ok if yours takes more turns, then check you have soldered the encoders the right way. (switching the pins incorrect order Ifound will take many turns like you describe) I have 2 character displays, and sometimes I get funny characters coming on, but usually they dissappear within 1-2 seconds. Sometimes the display for the channel strip next to the one being adjusted goes blank, but that dosen't bother me, as it comes back in 1 or 2 seconds. good luck, from Steve

Hey Thorsten, Thanks for the reply, it is appreciated! I tried connecting the modules one by one, but even the first one was always on! So I tried another PIC, and now it is working great!! ;D as for the real cause... -maybe I damaged the PIC (Short somewhere?) -maybe an offcut of wire caused a short and when I replaced the PIC it may have dislodged the short? (I turned the board upside down and shook it, as I noticed a few small bits of metal/solder on it) anyway, I'm happy now!! ;D

pin 19 of the pic is always at +5v (S0, of JP8) could someone else measure this, and tell me if this is normal? I am using midibox LC

:'( I finally finished soldering the rest of the buttons in, now all the LED's are on all the time!!