stryd_one

me too, too. woohoo, and like such as.

Don't think I've seen red pleds either.... But the backlight is definitely on, in the pics above... ?

I might use something like that, provided that the PC was passive (could catch fire and explode and the seq would keep going), didn't mess with the timing or the physical interface, and wasn't a VST... I'm trying to get away from coding windoze though, so I'll beta test, but development is definitely out of my scope.

Tobybear plugs are still around huh, cool :) That's Tobybear, not toybear heheh

http://www.midibox.org/dokuwiki/mios_pin_list ;)

Heh, the awesomebar tells me that it's all through my browser history but not in my bookmarks. Fixed that, thanks benjamin!

Panel mount rocks. I planned on doing the same, for the same reason - it's rock-solid.... just couldn't find nice enough switches for my very picky tastes.... well, not for under $20 each ;)

Bunsen I've ordered extras, next time we're in the same part of the city you can steal one of mine :)

Okay sorry I should elaborate... I thought you just had a core module at that point, with no AIN modules connected (reading the lines I quoted, it sounded that way) .... Grounding the unused digital inputs on a core module would be bad, so I wanted to post quickly to save your gear, so I rushed it :) Any pin that can act as an output, should not be grounded. Any of the pins on the PIC fall into this category, as do the DOUTs. With DINs you're probably safe, but why would you want to do that anyway? So it's best not to... Just ground the unused AINs, leave everything else...

You should only ground the unused analog inputs - Don't ground digital pins! Grounded AIN = Always reads as zero = No constant updating and making stuff flicker and go crazy Grounded digital pins (not jut DINs but any thig aside from AINs basically) + that pin goes high = short circuit = fried PIC. Edit: I like your newfound one-thing-at-a-time approach... and I think you do too, it's working out well so far :)

OK try this... as you navigate around your PC for a few minutes after you read this, take note of the time difference between your eye hitting the spot you want to click on, and your hand moving the mouse to that point and clicking it. Just imagine how fast you could operate.... While we're on the subject, if you guys haven't tried it or something like it, check out an app called StrokeIt. Yes, it's a dodgy name, but the app is king. Mine is at 70790 gestures performed, at the moment. Also, TypeMatrix keyboards. Maltron and Kinesys Contoured models also have this straight-grid keyboard design, and I'm here to tell you that anything else is pure stupidity. Staggered keyboard layouts are a throwback to early mechanical keyboards, and are an ergonomics nightmare. Edit: another ergo-tip - Dvorak keyboard layouts. Be warned it takes a long time to break your bad QWERTY habit, and that once you type dvorak you'll develop a hatred for qwerty and it's inefficiency.

I think you'll need debouncing OFF - otherwise it's gonna skip some of the inputs if you turn the wheel fast enough....

Logitech don't make ergonomic mice, but they make some they *call* ergonomic :) (I have some myself) You want ergonomics? Eye tracking is the way. When was the last time you clicked on something without looking at it? So, if your eyes move there anyway, why not use that, and keep your arms free? http://thirtysixthspan.com/openEyes/ seems to be the tool of choice....

This is an ergonomics nightmare. I don't rate this device at all highly. Look at his thumb when he operates it! ugh.

Best to supply that kind of information when it's asked for.

Nah it's built into MIOS. That screen you posted looks like it didn't get past the bootloader. There seems to be a lot of confusion here, if it were me, I'd start from scratch. Disconnect everything, test the core. Add one thing at a time and test test test.

Yellow-bellied black snake: [img width=300]http://i150.photobucket.com/albums/s118/Herpingphotos/100_1102.jpg Just another one of my friendly neighbours. They're a lot nicer than the redbelly, those things have a shocking temperament. I hope your cable doesn't :)

http://australia.rs-online.com/web/search/searchBrowseAction.html?method=getProduct&R=5025010 That's the Hirose DMB1 series, it's a springloaded push-in/push-out with a detector switch and all that, AUD$4.81 (about USD$5). This seems to be the standard 'nice' connector :) This is the DMB1-B* where the card goes into the slot pin-side-up, There is one that costs ~10c more, where the card is not upside-down, the DMB1-A*. Or, you can go with a slightly less-nice older model like this one for about $3 :)

How can you be sure? It seems you changed three things at once (broke a 'golden rule of troubleshooting', see my signature 'fix bugs' link), you changed sid chips, and regulator, and PSU.....

yes he does, that was what I meant. Sasha has to deal with a lot of very unusual situations in his home, since the recent wars.... I guess that it's small compensation to have easy access to CNC despite this.

http://www.schickt.de/mbquote.php?id=17 hehehe

Hot hot hot. The tone of this thing is crying out for a drumsynth....

Amen! There's some good stuff in serbia, like CNC :)

Err nah 7.5 technically speaking should not be enough - although it does work for nils, so datasheets are always approximate ;) The same theory applies here as from this thread: Re: FM262 First DIY Project about your FM. Regulators need 2V and rectifier needs 1V, overhead of your 5V output, so we should have 8V minimum. I find that 8.6V is my magic number, I've had weird problems on anything less. 9V should be OK, but you don't wanna go much higher, and a heatsink is recommended - do you have one? I'd start looking for shorts...

I dunno, I got the best connector around for $5... They aren't that bad. I even offered freebies to everyone I saw at the time I was ordering, and noone wanted one! Speaking of which... $5-13 for the chip... $5 for the socket... so, that sparkfunPCB is worth like 30 bucks. ouch! Good if you want it ready to go, but in our case, I'm sure we could make it as a small kit for a lot cheaper. It's an interesting idea as to whether they could be used as a generic replacement for banksticks. Given that these are file-based, and BS are address-based, I don't know how it'll work. The datasheets will say a lot :)