nILS

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Power_supply#Linear_power_supply

Correct. Simple answer to all your questions: Everyhing that needs to be wired is in the pdf. If it's not in there, don't wire it.

Difference is your circuit does not only limit current (which is the point of th BL circuit) but also drops the voltage if the trimpot is set to <5k between ground and the wiper.

nILS lost his magic crystal ball again Details? What app? What hardware?

Money now. Kits laterâ„¢

- W08G will work. - You will not have to stuff the rectifiers and the 7805 on the cores (a jumper wire between pins 1 and 3 of the vreg are a nice idea, as to have the 2200u cap connected) - oh lookey you now have some rectifiers left over that you can use for the optimized PSU ;) - MI/MO, nope that's correct, all MIDI Ins are connected in parallel - 7809: You leave those in. Also you'd want to leave the rectifier in cause it doesn't hurt and is a nice little insurance policy ;) - Vs connections: Look at the .pdf - on the SID modules it's J2:Vs (bottom left pin)

a) IIRC no, but I may be off on that one. b) Yes. Noise. Switchmode PSU by any chance? PSU close to the data lines?

Where (and how) is toggle_state defined?

10bit

The tools I listed are the ones I used when building my sammich prototype (I did indeed forget the multimeter). Pliers 9,95 EUR: http://www.pollin.de/shop/detail.php?pg=NQ==&a=MDg4OTk0OTk= Soldering iron 4,50 EUR: http://www.pollin.de/shop/detail.php?pg=NQ==&a=OTg4OTUxOTk= Multimeter 3,95 EUR: http://www.pollin.de/shop/detail.php?pg=NQ==&a=NDI3OTYxOTk= Solder 3,50 EUR: http://www.pollin.de/shop/detail.php?pg=NQ==&a=ODQ5OTUxOTk= ================ 21,90 EUR == $32 US This list is missing the screwdriver, cause I haven't bought one recently and hence don't have a link to one. But well, a euro more or less... That's exactly what I used to build mine. And it's sufficient. And way cheaper than $200US ;) Nicer (and usually more expensive) tools are a great thing though, but you can always upgrade your tools when you decide to stick with DIY.

Yes, if you're patient (and you seem to be after having read stuff for a year) and can follow instructions it's definitely doable as a newbie. Buying parts will be easiest from smash, as he's got pretty much everything you'll need in stock. You might want to consider the mb6582 or - if you decide you don't really need 8 sids - the sammichSID. They pretty much come in kit form (the sammich is actually a full kit with all the parts, pcbs and case) and make it a lot easier for someone without experience.

1) Hadsid4u = 4 sids, sammichSID = 2 sids, mb6582 = 8 sids. Pick one. If you can't tell the difference in the power of the synth engines and the general overall concept etc. from reading both user manuals, then I guess it totally doesn't matter which one you get. One thing for instance: Do you see any MIDI In/Out jacks on the hardsid? Read up on the synth engine(s), check out which parameters can be changed w/o a PC... Read, read, read ;) 2) something in the $20 range should do just fine.

Since the math is fairly abstract here's a pic showing my point. The content of the pic is to-scale. Can you really really move the fader in smaller increments than shown on the scale at the bottom (100mm fader travel @ 10bit)

1) Compare the features of http://ucapps.de/midibox_sid_manual.html with http://www.hardsid.com/. You decide. 2) A soldering iron, solder, a pair of wire clippers and a phillips head screwdriver. Nail clippers can double as wire clippers and a lot of household goodies you prolly have around can double as a screwdriver. So technically, a soldering iron and solder will do.

Without an added ADC there's no way you'll get "true" 14bits. 10bits = 1024 values. I am not sure you can possibly move the fader in smaller steps. Assuming you used faders with 100mm travel, 10bit resolation means each "step" equals a fader movement of 0.09765625 mm. Are you sure you can move the fader less than that? ;) edit: Btw, "midibox" is a useless tag on this forum ;) Also, don't put spaces after the "," when you add more than one tag.

[09:32] <nILS> your post doesn't specifically say that, soo: [09:32] <nILS> did you also upload the mbSID app to all four pics again? [09:33] <Filch> yah, I did MIOS and Sidapp to each [09:34] <Filch> wait, I didn't upload the SID app to all 4 pics individually, just the MIOS [09:35] <nILS> ;) [09:35] <nILS> well there you go. 66% of the problem was fixed by actually uploading the mbSID app to the 3 slave cores. Now only core 4 doesn't respond. Also the first row and first column of the LED matrix is flashing after boot (maybe a hint to Mr. Nice Guy)

About as nice as unaffordable ;)

Topic is: "bypass capacitor, long cable and switchmode PSU" Because (cheap) switchmode PSUs have a tendency to be extremely noisy (lotsa big spikes in the voltage). That can lead to noise on the analog inputs as well as affect the sound of analog outputs (audio out of the mbSID for instance).

How much does the box need atm? Measure that, add a another 10-20% to be on the safe side and choose your new PSU accordingly. For testing any 7-10V wallwart ~500mA will do. Just disconnect the DOUT chain and/or the display to keep current consumption down. Let's find out if the PSU is the problem before buying a new one.

Yes it may improve, just try attaching some capacitors with short cables (crocodile clips ftw) in different places and see how it affects the noise level. Remeber: workaround != fix, I'd strongly advise trying a different PSU.

If you want to drive multiple LEDs from a single DOUT pin relays or transistor drivers may be your friend. A forum search will give you some hints (ULN2803 might be a good place to start). As for the app, something as simple as this will already do: ///////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////// // This function is called by MIOS when a complete MIDI event has been received ///////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////// void MPROC_NotifyReceivedEvnt(unsigned char evnt0, unsigned char evnt1, unsigned char evnt2) __wparam { // note event if ((evnt0 == 0x90) && (evnt2 > 0)) // note on MIOS_DOUT_PinSet1(evnt1); else if ((evnt0 == 0x90) || (evnt0 == 0x80)) // note off MIOS_DOUT_PinSet0(evnt1); }[/code] (From the top of my head, untested)

Yep that'll work.

This topic has been moved to Design Concepts. [iurl]http://www.midibox.org/forum/index.php?topic=14034.0[/iurl]

This topic has been moved to Design Concepts. [iurl]http://www.midibox.org/forum/index.php?topic=14099.0[/iurl]