Wilba

Standard line level input will work. You need to turn on external input in the Filter page, then you can control it via the knob or I suppose NPRN messages, can't tell you more off the top of my head, you'll have to RTFM :D

People can email me to get on a waiting list.

Thread moved to Fleamarket. The sale of one-off MIDIbox projects via the MIDIbox forum is not commercial intent, and will always be approved.

I'm trying to work out why there is more than one upload message. That isn't normal. The LCD is only connected to Core 1, it won't show anything if there's no PIC in Core 1. OK so I guess the problem is, when there is a PIC in Core 4 and a PIC in one of the other Cores (i.e. Core 3) then Core 4 MIDI Out stops working. So just to confirm: put PIC ID 3 into Core 4, set J11 to 4, leave other Cores without PICs. Boot, capture MIDI In. put PIC ID 2 into Core 3, leave J11 on 4. Boot, capture MIDI In. take out PIC from Core 3, put PIC ID 1 into Core 2, leave J11 on 4. Boot, capture MIDI In. take out PIC from Core 2, put PIC ID 0 into Core 1, leave J11 on 4. Boot, capture MIDI In. That will help work out if (I suspect) PIC in Core 3 causes Core 4 to stop working. Then perhaps it has something to do with the connections between Cores... the CAN bus. Have a look at D1_CORE1, D1_CORE2, D1_CORE3, D1_CORE4 (under the PIC), and R80 (between PICs of Core 1 and Core 2). In the PDF of the PCB, look at the track that connects the anodes of these diodes together, and with R80. I'm only guessing here that it might be related to that. However, perhaps to rule this out, reinstall JUST MIOS 1.9g on all the PICs via Core 1, and NOT the MB-SID firmware.... and then repeat those tests with MIDI, seeing what happens when you move PICs around and what causes it to fail in Core 4.

OK this shows that Core 4 isn't working at all (or might not be). Since you say all the PICs have the right ID, does this mean you've tried all PICs in Core 1? Try all PICs in Core 4, with J11 set to 4... leave the other Core sockets empty. What's the MIDI In look like then?

Good news! I recommend the 10.5V setting. Unregulated power supplies have a max current rating, so that in your case, it will deliver 12V when the current draw is approximately 800mA. When the current draw is less, the voltage will be higher. That's why you're seeing 18V because the total current draw is less than 800mA (probably more like 350mA max). So in your case, switching it down to a 10.5V supply is a good idea... it might even have a 9V setting that outputs 11V... as long as the 7809 gets 10.5V or so, it can output 9V. The tricky part will be that its hard to measure what that 7809 input voltage is when the CS/LCD is connected, and you're drawing an extra 100mA... maybe just once you can take it out of the case, assemble it without the case bottom, and measure voltages on the bottom while it fully working.

First check that each PIC has a unique PIC ID (put each PIC in Core 1). If they each have unique PIC IDs, then the problem might be a short. It's possible that there's a short in J11 so that two Core "Tx pins" are connected. Check that the top pins of J11 are not connected to each other, or to the bottom row of pins. With all PICs in the Cores, you can power on with shunt in each position of J11 and you should get unique "bootloader upload request" messages on MIDI In. Perhaps you can do this and copy/paste what you see in the MIDI In window of MIOS Studio 2.

The short answer is, I had room to stick the pads for a 7805 "just in case" but I have no idea if that would work, esp. since the current draw on the 5V supply is huge (800mA just for 8 SIDs, 100-250mA for LCD, etc). If you have room, it is probably better to build a separate PSU to deliver what you need for the SIDs you have... ie. 9V and/or 12V for SIDs, 5V for everything else. Or alternately, pass 9V AC to the base PCB and regulated 5V DC that's NOT generated from the same 9V AC supply (but could be from the same transformer) and connect to J1A. i.e. build your own C64 PSU brick.

Now, but not then... It took years of being crazy and being called an epic superdouche before I claimed MIDIbox Hero status.

I bought one from Queensland (it's like the Florida of Australia lol) for $10 or so... looked reasonably clean on the outside, opened it up and it was FULL of some kind of foamy stuff that some insect used to make its home, not to mention insect poop. Filthy, disgusting mess. Still, I was able to salvage an 8580 SID, which worked perfectly.

It was for me! :thumbsup:

... and buy nILS a beer :thumbsup:

Your soldering isn't all that bad... just the pads connected to ground plane... they're the ones that don't have a track connected nor a dark ring around them. Heat dissipates from the joint much quicker than other pads, so they need more heat (and/or better technique) to get the "tenting" to happen. If you have a temperature controlled iron, crank up the temp to 400 deg. just for those pads. Alternately, start with a small blob of solder on the tip, and approach the joint at a lower angle, so you're making more contact with the pad. Send back the bad CS PCB, I am curious to find where it is shorting.

Using the voltage tests section of the guide, test continuity between points that have the same coloured dot. Then with power on, test voltages at those points, and report back any that aren't what you expect. Points marked 12V may not be exactly 12V depending on power supply. 9V and 5V should be very close (+/- 5%)

OK this is getting strange. I'm not following what you say about the continuity tests, but it suggests something like a pin connected to ground isn't well connected, or some other soldering error. Do these tests and report back. Test continuity between "GND" pin on J2 and other ground points (middle pin of 7809 and 7805) Test continuity between "+9V" pin of J20 and other 9V points (JP, 7809, anode of D4) Test continuity between "+5V" pin on J2 and other 5V points, just for completeness. Check D4 and D5 diodes are oriented correctly. If the 7809 and 7805 middle pins aren't connected to ground properly, that will cause problems. Continuity test (or test resistance) between those pins and a known good unsoldered ground point like J2 IF that passes, then while powered on: test voltages between J2 GND and the orange dots, check they're all the same voltage, report them. test voltages between 7809 middle pin and the orange dots, check they're all the same voltage, report them. test voltages between J2 GND and the four blue dots, check they're all the same voltage, report them. test voltages between 7809 middle pin and the four blue dots, check they're all the same voltage, report them. then test voltage at the two other points between the 7809 and the 7805... i.e. cathode end of D4 (where stripe is), cathode end of D5 (where stripe is). Take a photo of the right side of the PCB (top and bottom)... probably won't do much but you never know... I might see something.

not really... You could have a short between the 9V points and ground. What's the resistance between the 9V points and ground?

well that is the problem then... 0.15V into a 5V regulator isn't going to output 5V. If you're measuring 9V elsewhere then there's something wrong between the 7809 and the 7805... i.e. through those two fat diodes.

Not at all... I meant I persuaded nILS to use cheap parts to make any future kit cheaper and easier to stock, i.e. E-Switch tactile switches, C&K black switch cap, standard 8x2 character LCD... I didn't like the idea of using an EA DOG LCD, at $15 they're a bit overpriced relative to the target kit price ($150-$175), I can get the standard ones for <$5, and also not be locked into just one model/supplier.