Wilba

Please share your trick of getting everyone to pay. I always get 5% of people wasting my time, saying they'll pay next week (and then don't) or just ignoring me completely, as if not replying is the same as cancelling. </rant> :mad:

You should mention this is the original first batch sammichSID with amber LCD and red LEDs. Also whether it comes with SIDs or not. Also POIDH.

Absolutely not. Most DC power supplies (especially the multi-voltage ones) have reversible tips, regardless of whether they are regulated or not. The best way of checking if it is regulated is by using a multi-meter. The "no load" voltage should be exactly the voltage you expect (i.e. 12V) and not something way higher (like 15V). In this case, the voltage is higher than 12V because it's unregulated. Take out the shunts in JBP, this is ONLY required in the special case of using a regulated 12V DC power supply to power 6581 SIDs. Set the brightness pot to fully anti-clockwise. Assuming you are using the high-power LCD I sell... Check the shunt in JR4 is in. Check the shunt in JBL is in "12V" Remove all ICs, connect the boards, power it up. If you don't get any backlight or "squares" on the LCD, then you'll need to check solder joints on the headers connecting the LCD to the base PCB. If you want to test the backlight circuit, you can do this by setting JR4/JBL to "low-power" backlight settings (no JR4, JBL="5V") and inserting an LED into the top two pins of J16 header (cathode in pin 16, anode in pin 15).

Points labelled "12V" won't be 12V if you are using an unregulated power supply. Start a new thread and tell us what power supply you are using, the voltage, AC or DC, current rating, etc.

Which filter board are you using?

I haven't built one but I like it. BTW it wasn't "inspired by" sammichSID... sammichSID was first shown while Oliver had already designed his original Shruti-1. But I will agree that some people's cases are obviously similar: "Maya" 1/4 by mutable.instruments, on Flickr Now I'm inspired to do a remix/ripoff of the idea using a Core32 instead :wink:

Topic moved to Fleamarket. Your issues might be related to the power supply, maybe also the LCD backlight brightness is too high, or you didn't put the shunt in JBL correctly for high-power LCDs. You're welcome to create a new topic to discuss this, or just email me about it.

I wouldn't request anything less than 100pcs from Sulzer... they're being quite nice dealing with people directly (where there isn't some stupid distributor like Neutrik interfering with sales). If you think other people might want some, I can get 100pcs of each and sell what you don't want. Can you post pictures of the other two knobs?

I have some too. They look like they might have enough clearance with the top PCB, but then not with each other or with the filter caps. So you'd need to fold the fins up a bit and then trim them short, and also maybe chop off fins that have clearance issues with the caps, or bend the caps down a bit. It might be easier to just stick some other kind of heatsinks onto the SIDs.... these aren't permanent, it's just a layer of double-sided tape holding them on. http://www.zalman.com/ENG/product/Product_Read.asp?idx=136

I last bought 3000pcs Rean P401 knobs direct from Sulzer (2000pcs went to SmashTV for the MB-SEQ kits). The MOQ is 1000pcs but I was able to get 100pcs of another type in the same order. So if you're stuck getting exactly what you need, I could run a mini bulk order, get another 1000pcs of P401 and an assortment of other types (min/mult 100pcs). As a rough estimate of price, here's what I got last time: 100 pcs P675-S-09-D6-S price CHF 26.70 per 100 pcs P675 is a nice knob too.

I recommend to all builders to keep the backlight pot set to half-way or less... the pot is 50K, changed from official Core spec of 10K, so there is some real current limiting... also there is a header/shunt for powering "high-power" LCD backlights from input power. So in my experience, a 12V AC 500mA power supply is OK, and if you turn the brightness up too much, the current draw will cause voltage to sag and the PIC will reboot (or not boot). When the PSU is regulated, you can choose a higher current rating without any concern, but for unregulated PSUs, going higher than 500mA causes more problems, input voltage will be much higher, thus the voltage regulators will need to dissipate more heat (and powering the backlight from input power becomes more fault-prone). TK, maybe you should turn your LCD brightness down a bit... :thumbsup:

Consider this:

I upload MIOS to the PIC before packing into sammichSID kits (and even watch it boot up and show the "READY." on the LCD) so I don't know how you got a PIC without MIOS. Bizarre.

This is a switchmode power supply. I can tell from the pixels and from seeing quite a few switchmode power supplies in my time. The input voltage range (100 - 240V AC) clearly gives it away.

Technician4: If you absolutely must add a fan, note that the amount of noise the fan adds to the power rails (and thus the audio output) will vary a lot. For me, the nicest looking 40mm translucent fan with red LED inside was a real noisy bitch compared to the simple and cheaper black one. Also, it's probably best to get one that runs at slow revs on 12V and power it directly from your regulated 12V power supply (i.e. take power at J1 header). This will mean the current used is not supplied from the regulators inside the sammichSID, just like using JBL set to "12V" to supply the LCD backlight with power from the input, not via the regulators. I think you would be better served attaching some heatsinks to your 6581 SIDs to keep them cooler, it's unlikely you'll cook the regulators with only ~300mA passing through them at a regulated 12V DC input (i.e. rough calc. of 12V-5V=7V, 7V*0.3A=2.1W heat dissipated through heatsinks, this calc. is a guestimate, some heat is dissipated through the two power diodes).

While there is no LED to show the state of "Edit Mode", it definitely does toggle "Edit Mode" on/off if you hold down SHIFT and press the down arrow. "Edit Mode" is not the only way changes get saved, you can explicitly save via the "SAV" menu. Using "Edit Mode" can lead to accidentally messing up your patches and losing the original patch, which is why explicit saving is preferred. I haven't played around much with setting parameters via NRPN, but I'm pretty sure if you can see the param changed in the menu, it should be saved in the patch via explicit saving or via "Edit Mode". Also, "Edit Mode" only saves when you change the patch, it's not saving the params continuously after each change, etc.

Im Land der Blinden, der Mann mit einem Auge ist König. :pirate:

:frantics: You're not the first to make that mistake.

Email me so I can arrange a replacement.

You can also reuse pins from a low-profile IC socket.

That has some serious DIY charm... awesome! Can you post photos of the inside? I'd like to see how you built the box and mounted everything.

Which PIC burner and PIC burning software are you using? Are you sure you're burning the correct ID onto the PICs? Could this be some issue with PIC ID=0 working and ones with a different ID not working? Check which bootloader you are burning, it should be bootloader_v1_2b_pic18f4685.hex Similarly, check which MIOS you are trying to upload (not burn), it should be mios_v1_9g_pic18f4685.hex Keep testing using the same Core each time, and maybe even trying to burn PIC ID=0 onto all four PICs when you burn the bootloader. After MIOS is installed on all four PICs, you can use another app to change the PIC ID to something different, or just burn again with PIC ID=1,2,3

FWIW it should say "Base PCB Revision 2" in the top-left corner.