Wilba

POIDH

NUH UH!

nuh uh!

nuh uh!

What are you doing, nILS? You can not pretend to be me! You are not crazy! You do not pack hundreds of kits! You don't even own a packing tape gun!

I have emailed everyone that sent their details to grizz already. If you did not receive an email, or want to join this bulk order, just email me: Jason.S.Williams@gmail.com There won't be any "This bulk order is OPEN/CLOSED" type posts. This will be an ongoing bulk order while I am still selling sammichFM kits, so you can contact me at any time to get some OPL3 chipsets, and if I have spares, I will sell them, if I don't have spares, you can wait until I get more. That is all. Carry on.

Randomly swapping SIDs is not a solution. You didn't learn where the noise was coming from, the SIDs, the PCB, the filter caps, bad solder joints, etc. I recommend you send all your SIDs to nILS for proper testing (and disposal of faulty ones).

Not easily, but it's possible. If both devices are MIDIbox based, it might be easier to get one to send LCD commands through the other (maybe via CAN bus, or I2C or even MIDI). Having them share the LCD bus is difficult to get right. Both devices would have to correctly handle when access to the LCD is given/taken, again if this was MIDIbox for both, they'd have to switch their ports to hi-Z when they don't have access... so there'd be a lot of coding to do... well, I could go on in great detail how I'd do it but I'll just give the short answer - it's possible, but there are easier ways to achieve the same thing. If they are not both MIDIbox devices (i.e. you can't write code for both things you want to share the LCD), then it isn't possible - each device would assume it has sole access and wouldn't play nice, wouldn't refresh when switched to, etc.

I haven't finished Cherry Jammer yet... got distracted by sammichSID kits, sammichFM prototyping, etc. :whistle: I like those switch caps... did you make them yourself?

ug glug glug Thanks. FYI the alternate pins are for encoders which I never use nor plan to ever use, but I can't resist putting them in just in case someone wants them.

In the first bulk order I did, I defined an "OPL3 chipset" as 1x YMF262 and 2x YAC512, since the intent was to fully stuff a MIDIbox "OPL3 module".

Picture the rotary encoder like two switches with a common pin. The common pin is pin 3, which is connected to ground. Pins 1 and 2 connect to the 74HC165. As the encoder turns, it closes each of the two switches in sequence, thus you can detect which direction the encoder is being turned by the "pulses". See here for more technical explanations: http://www.midibox.org/dokuwiki/doku.php?id=encoders So it's normal for pin 1 and/or pin 2 to be connnected to pin 3, depending on the position of the shaft. You should do a continuity test between pin 1 and pin 3 while rotating the encoder, and listen for the beep going on and off. Repeat for between pin 2 and pin 3. So to answer your questions: 1) Yes, but test more as I describe above. 2) You can't rule out faulty encoder at this stage. 3) Yes, see above. But also... - check orientation of the resistor networks - check no shorts between any of the IC pins - check encoder pins aren't touching (and shorting with) the heatsink underneath - did you upload the setup_sammich_sid.hex file (and not another one)? - do the buttons work? Can you press 1st select button and get the Ensemble menu? Can you press Shift and get the Shift menu?

Maybe it's time someone wrote a dedicated MIDIbox FM patch editor/librarian... :D

Nice shirt! lolwut?

I use MIDI Yoke on Windows 7, no problem at all. Why do you need it anyway? You shouldn't need MIDI Yoke to use MIOS Studio 2 or the MB-SID V2 patch editor.

Were you getting stereo sounds in Lead engine? Are you using a stereo plug in the stereo audio out socket? If you think one SID isn't making noise, swap SIDs and see if the working channel changes or not. Thus you can tell if it's the SID or the channel (i.e. the SID socket or its audio buffer or the audio socket etc.).

What he said... :D Hold down SHIFT Use 2nd Select button to change the Engine "E." Use 4th Select button to initialize the patch "Ini" You will also need to configure the instruments in the Ensemble (see "INS" in Ensemble menu)

If you're thinking of buying from Mouser, I recommend the negative white Optrex STEP LCD: http://www.optrex.com/products/partdetail.asp?PartNumber=C-51847NFQJ-LW-AAN Mouser part: 805-51847NFQJLWAAN (ignore photo on Mouser page) If you prefer black text on white: http://www.optrex.com/products/partdetail.asp?PartNumber=C-51847NFJ-SLW-ADN Mouser part: 805-51847NFJSLWADN (ignore photo on Mouser page) though I haven't seen this one in real life, I can guarantee it will have better contrast and most likely a more uniform backlight.

I suggest default patch #67 SEQ TranceBass, hold down middle C.

What kind of SID is it?

This thread is about OPL3 chipsets. You want OPL3 chipsets? You email me.

I have a white one and an original green prototype I can part with.