Wilba

Yes... I just "acquired" an iPad through exploiting government handouts... and was disappointed that it won't even boot until you connect to iTunes. Disappointing, really... you'd think it could be marketed as an alternative to a desktop or notebook computer. Now that depends on how much DIY you go... I agree that some LEDs and cheap switches soldered onto veroboard and buying DIN/DOUT/Core32 modules might be cheaper... but to make anything that looks decent, the 16x16 BLM cost will be close to the cost of a new iPad. Consider 256 "good" switches, and a top panel/frame, and a case, etc. Not that I'm promoting iPad over a hardware BLM. The iPad can do more than just be a BLM, but it doesn't have "real" buttons. In case you're interested, some examples of "doing more": http://hexler.net/software/touchosc http://www.tradlessons.com/iJammer.html http://www.morphwiz.com/

SORRY I CANNOT HEAR YOU OVER THE SOUND OF HOW AWESOME THIS SAMMICHSID IS.

Thanks! If it's no difference with JBP shunts, I can't explain it... if there is exactly 12V going into the 7809, there should be exactly 9V coming out. So I'm tempted to blame the 7809 being at fault, and/or it's sagging under heavy load (which it shouldn't be with no SIDs and no LCD connected). Strange. But if it works, and you're not getting any audio artifacts then fuggetaboutit ;)

I have zero experience with Mac, but I know that it sometimes Macs don't play nice with MIDIbox and sending/receiving SysEx... but I thought that was when using a Java interface (i.e. what MIOS Studio 1 used). Let's say it's not properly sending/receiving SysEx, not flushing buffers when it should, truncating/splitting up SysEx... etc. then you will get this intermittent working behaviour. Maybe you can upgrade/downgrade the M-Audio Firewire 410 driver. It might be a newer driver with the new OS. Newer doesn't always mean better.

You need to read moar: http://www.midibox.org/dokuwiki/wilba_mb_6582 It's a PacTec PT-10 enclosure http://www.midibox.org/dokuwiki/wilba_mb_6582_control_surface_parts_list You can order panels from Front Panel Express or Schaeffer. http://www.midibox.org/dokuwiki/wilba_mb_6582_panels

If you use regulated 12V DC, see this other post for more info:

You need more than a 9V power supply* I just checked and I don't actually specify or talk about what power supply to use in the build guide, only by accident perhaps: The internal 9V regulator (7809) needs more than 9V to regulate down to 9V. Use a 12V AC 500mA power supply. 12V AC 1000mA is too big, the voltage going into the 7809 will be much higher than required, causing a lot more heat. Alternatively, use a regulated 12V DC (any current rating) power supply. * you can get away with a 9V AC 1000mA power supply, because the load is much smaller (300mA), so the voltage going into the 7809 will be 12V or more.

I wasn't referring to sammichSID btw... that's not so hackable, really... well, someone could write different firmware but why bother? :wink: I was thinking something more like the " synth.

Whoa that's a scary short to have... 12V going into the SID's audio output pin!!! I'm surprised your 6581 wasn't fried. Those things die just from looking at them the wrong way. :D

I just did some tests using my own regulated 12V 500mA supply... There are only 3 relevant measurements A. straight out of the plug (i.e. at J1 pins) B. voltage between GND (middle pin) and input pin of 7809 C. voltage between GND (middle pin) and output pin of 7809 For me, I get A=12.06V, B=10.6V, C=8.94V For you, it's A=12.2V, B=10.8V, C=8.8V It's a little low but OK. Since you're using a regulated DC power supply which is tip positive, you can try putting the shunts in JBP to bypass the bridge rectifier (it's not needed). That will get rid of the 1.4V drop from the two diodes in the bridge rectifer, giving a little more voltage to the 7809, and you should probably see the 7809 output closer to 9V. You would need these shunts if you were using 6581 SIDs anyway, but it's completely safe to do for 6582/8580R5 use. Just check the power supply really is tip positive.

All fixed and I didn't have to do anything? Cool! :D

With no SIDs or LCD backlight draining the current, you really should get closer to 9V. It could be that your multimeter is not that accurate, or the power supply is a little bit weak. What power supply are you using? i.e. unregulated 12V AC 500mA? etc. What do you measure for the 5V supply? You should try to work out why you aren't getting closer to 9V (i.e. 8.95V or higher), but it's probably close enough to plug in SIDs and get sound out of them. This voltage check is more to make sure you have the JP header shunt installed correctly and won't fry your SIDs with anything higher than 9V. So don't worry too much.

Cool!

It could be a problem with the left SID socket. Pin 8 on each socket is connected separately to the PIC, this is what enables each SID to receive data from the PIC, so if one SID isn't working then maybe this is why. Check pin 8 has continuity, not shorted, etc. Also check continuity of the filter caps (C1L, C2L), problems with these will result in no audio (I think), or at least no audio if the filter is enabled. I've attached a PDF of the base PCB with ground plane turned off. This should have been in the wiki already, sorry. I blame nILS. sammichSID Base PCB.pdf

1. I was joking. 2. sammichSID was designed to be the "no excuses" MIDIbox SID project. I wrote such comprehensive build instructions that even a complete newbie to electronics could build it. It even has photos of every part. Not having experience in soldering is not a valid excuse. So I would prefer people who have/will learn skills get kits ahead of people who just want to pay someone else, but ultimately people do what they want and I don't really care. 3. hexagonsun bought a kit already.

Interesting... nice case idea. What I don't understand is why the PCB in the "Quick Build" kit is a different PCB to the "Full Board Kit" kit. MeeBlip Quick Build Kit A MeeBlip anyone can play – with everything you need already in the box. No soldering required! MeeBlip Full Board Kit No case or overlays – suitable for those wanting to make their own enclosure. You solder the board yourself; some basic soldering experience recommended. Note the extra "rear ports" PCB in the Quick Build kit. I think the MIDI and USB sockets are supposed to go on that PCB and not the bigger one, and then they stack via a male/female header. So the Full Board kit doesn't have this rear ports PCB... therefore the MIDI socket will have to go on the same PCB, DIN sockets are max. 20mm high, so... how are you supposed to make your own case with a 20mm MIDI socket while the switches and pots are all short? You need something like a 7mm gap between PCB and top panel, and even then, the switch actuators would only poke out 2mm for a 3mm top panel. 7mm < 20mm. Hmm... I suppose you could DIY your own rear ports PCB or use panel mount sockets... still, it's a shame that the kit aimed at hackers wanting to "make their own enclosure" are screwed over by the stoopid big fat MIDI socket on what is essentially the control surface PCB. </rant> :D Hmm... I wonder if people would be interested in a MIDIbox equivalent hackable DIY synth... with a sammich style case... hmmm... :wink:

Paraphrase fail. It is actually (yes or (yes and no))

Awesome! I'll reply to the questions for completeness... Yes, but it might not be affecting the ones that count, or are audible. i.e. filter cutoff frequency might also be wrong, but you wouldn't notice unless you were doing slow filter sweeps. Note also that the frequency is sent in two bytes, so both bytes of the register would be wrong, but you wouldn't have heard much difference in the low bits, and probably half the time, it wasn't wrong (i.e. it was a zero bit anyway). Yes, but I think TK recalculated this table using the formula in the datasheet, as there are some rounding errors in the table, so what is in the firmware is not identical to the table. hehehe I was going to check if there was, but it was late and finding a short would have proved the theory right a lot quicker. :wink: Can I ask if you used the interconnection test to discover the short to ground, or just tested each pin with a multimeter to find out what was wrong?

That's a very strange bug! It is possible that one or more of the data lines to the SID are not working properly... so that most of the time things are working but you are noticing incorrect frequencies being written to the SID's data registers. You could try the interconnection test: http://www.ucapps.de/mios/mbsid_interconnection_test_v2.zip to make sure the tracks between the 74HC595 and the SID are working correctly. See the README.txt file inside the zip for instructions. Check also there are no shorts between the pins on the SID sockets, and the 74HC595 below the SIDs. Let's say there was a short, then in the case that both pins are outputting the same value (0V or 5V) then you wouldn't notice it, but when they are outputting different values, then they'd both be 0V, I'm guessing. Or could be something else depending on stuff I don't know about electronics (which is a lot). Either way, it might make some bit patterns still work fine, like most note frequencies in a given note range, and then be totally wrong all the time for some other note range. You might want to test this theory by setting the pitch bend range to something large, and then hold a note down and do some pitch bending.... if you hear jumps in the pitch instead of a smooth glide, then the problem is definitely between the PIC/74HC595 and the SID and (most likely) nothing to do with the firmware or MIDI events being interpreted wrong, etc.

To whoever bought an orange sammichSID T-shirt, congratulations, you're the first (other than nILS and myself). BTW.... Red Bubble (the site where I've set up to sell T-shirts) just sent me a discount code. So until November 14th, use discount code Wilba_is_on_sale_3028 to get 15% off the price. That's a good deal, T-shirts are normally US$19.95 and they're good quality fabric and printing. Also, buy 4 T-shirts from Red Bubble and get free shipping (there are lots of other good T-shirt designs on Red Bubble, I'm not suggesting you get 4 of mine!) I make no profit on these shirts, it's just for fun. http://www.redbubble.com/people/wilba/t-shirts Available in three printing colours, many fabric colours, long-sleeve, even hoodies.

I'm not protecting this guy, I'm just stating facts. Selling a one-off, custom made MIDIbox for any price is not an example of commercial intent. You don't know exactly how much this cost him to build in parts costs alone, paying customs duty to import some stuff (e.g. buying a panel from Schaeffer and then paying VAT/customs duty on it as well), or maybe how many C64s he had to buy just to get one working SID. Veroboard and wire is cheaper than a custom made control surface PCB, but that doesn't mean he should give it away. I agree with TK... people are welcome to give opinions about these things, comment on whether it's overpriced or a bargain. I'm just saying there's no need to get so uptight about one-off sales and rant about breaking the rules.

Stop getting your panties in a bunch. Selling one MIDIbox on eBay is not considered breaking any non-commercial license. Asking more than what you would be willing to pay doesn't change anything. Before you start mouthing off about "intellectual property" and telling people they're "breaking rules", get your facts straight.

So are you saying the LCD is now NOT working? This could be related to a power supply problem. Have you installed any SIDs yet? Often if you have a slightly broken power supply, it can't supply enough power for 8 SIDs and everything else. If you have SIDs installed, remove them all and reboot, see if the LCD works again.

I definitely sold you two fully tested 6582A SIDs. The problem is most likely either a hardware fault on one channel, or what nILS said. The easiest way to test if both SIDs are working and outputting on both channels is to use the default (init) Multi patch, check the "Mono" mode is off (in the Ensemble) and play some notes... the notes will be played using one oscillator from each of the SIDs, i.e. if you don't hold down more than one key at a time, notes will be output: SID L, osc 1 SID L, osc 2 SID L, osc 3 SID R, osc 1 SID R, osc 2 SID R, osc 3 and on sammichSID, you'll also see which osc is being used by the LED matrix (like you said before, the right side will be lit for the right SID/channel).

Looks like Jan finally got a case for it. DSC02985 by janvanvolt, on Flickr I kinda liked it better naked... DSC02774 by janvanvolt, on Flickr