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shed

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Everything posted by shed

  1. you can pick up c64 psu's on ebay regulary i got one for £1
  2. Piezo based pads can be made to work fairly efectivly if they are designed to cut down of picking up vibration from loud areas. http://edrum.for.free.fr/modules.php?name=Content&pa=showpage&pid=37 this design is a fairly good example of one way of cuting down of vibration. I would say that the main advantages of using a piezo based solution is that the trigers will be dirt cheep, and also the work in doing interfaces for them has already been done. One idea i had for keyboard type aplications would be a strain gage superglued to the surface of a hacksaw blade (or some other springy bit of stuff) The keys on the keyboard could be aranged to bend the hacksaw blade, giving voltage output, this would mean that you would have to program some sort of timeing routine that mesured how long the voltage took to change between 2 set values. But the advantage would be that you could use this setup to give you aftertouch as well. A variation on this you could use just one strain gage to give you CV voltages for some sort of microtonal therimin type instument. Ed
  3. Hi adam, would it be ok if i just sent you a cheque by post, My Pay-Pal account has got "issues" with my credit card, im in the UK so it will probibly be just as quick?? -ed
  4. My sid has cost about £45 so far including the sids
  5. in this post it is sugested that you put the input to the core through a 7809 before a 7805 http://www.midibox.org/cgi-bin/yabb/YaBB.cgi?board=misc;action=display;num=1061917936 But also im not sure of the curent drain of the mf module. I think it is quite large. <edit> it is 1A it says here http://www.ucapps.de/mbhp/mbhp_mf_interconnections.pdf </edit>
  6. shed

    C64 Led

    yes thanks, i didnt have an actual led to look at, so thanks for clearing this up, i may leave this off once ive fitted the lcd
  7. shed

    C64 Led

    ok cos on tk's diagram http://www.ucapps.de/mbhp/mbhp_4xsid_c64_psu_optimized.pdf the conection for the led has 3 pins why is this? i thought perhaps the c64 led had 3 parts for the 5v and the 9v
  8. have a look at this http://www.ucapps.de/midibox_lc/midibox_ng_switching_psu.pdf i think you need to have a seprate 7-10 volt supply for the core or the 7805 will get very hot. ed
  9. shed

    C64 Led

    I am building the powersuply for my sid using an old c64 power psu. On the diagram for doing this it says that you can connect the power led from the C64, i havent got one, any alternitves?
  10. Looks realy interesting, i will watch out for good things
  11. yeh i think i will order my next pcb's from smash, he has some newer layouts that look nicer in several ways. Also the silk screen legend on his board makes things a lot easer. There was no problem realy with the soldering it came out fine mainly, The joints with the round pads came out nice looking, but the ones witch were just a hole through to an expanse of copper spread out a bit to much, i guess the flux helped the solder to "flow"! But having said that soldering onto any pcb is a lot better than doing it all on stripboard!
  12. Well i think milkes pcbs come with flux on them anyway so, il just do them as they are. I soldered a jdm last night and it worked fine. One thing though, on my pcbs some of components solder onto a realy large area on the board, i.e. there arnt proper pads, is there anyway to stop the solder spreading out? or just use a lot less?
  13. cool, whats the aout skt on the back pannel for?
  14. perhaps this page might help http://www.ucapps.de/mios_bootstrap.html it lists the place in the hex file to edit the device id
  15. Hey all, i got some PCB's from mikes shop for xmas, and I was just looking for some advice on tinning them and the like before soldering. I think you can get an arosol spray or something, but im not sure. i have made stuff on verro board before and i just made sure it was vagly clean and it seemed to work but... im guessing that if i wan't to do this properly and not waste the money on the pcb's i should ask people how they prepare them? thanks ed
  16. i think when people first started talking about these the idea was to use em for mixing surround. I think they have them now on the digidesign flagship surface insted of having joystics. But as far as i can tell thats only cos someone took out a patent on joysticks in mixers or something. I cant realy see a huge advantage over a joystick. I mean it faily friging annoying having these on a laptop! ed
  17. see this thread http://www.midibox.org/cgi-bin/yabb/YaBB.cgi?board=parts_q;action=display;num=1083542941 and yes
  18. i guess so, but if you could program this in mios then you wouldn't need any hardware changes
  19. 46 green bottles hanging on a wall and if .....
  20. could this not be done in software, by calculating some sort of moving average, this would meen that you could switch it on or off witch would be cool
  21. remember you don't have to make your front pannels first, i think it is probibly better to make the modules first and hook things up to see how you like using your project best, this will inform you well for how you want things laid out. A trick that i used when i was working on some guitair stomp boxes was to wrap a small cardbord box in aluminum foil to try things out first, it means that you get screening if you need it but also you can try lots of difrent layouts out, if you build the controlls on veroboard then you can just desolder using desolder braid move things arround and make new holes in the cardbord.
  22. Hey up, I need a new midi interface, um the serial one aint too good, and also i don't think that it works with the latest update of pro-tools either. So anyway i was thinking of ebaying a midisport 4x4 or something similar. Has anyone got one? are they alright, or is there something similar that i can diy without soldering smd pins right? ed
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