Altitude
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Posts posted by Altitude
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nice, will have to look into this. White also
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AFAIK, he was in the process of getting more made.
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you could try him on IRC. At the end of the day, the MB6582 is a much easier build since you dont have to deal with all the DIN/DOUT stuff for the controls.
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Unfortunately, No. (used to have one)
Those dont support the PIC you need for the MB6582
You want a PICit3 (or clone http://www.amazon.com/Development-PICkit3--Circuit-debugger-programmer-Windows/dp/B01ALP3XTS/ref=sr_1_5?s=pc&ie=UTF8&qid=1456348172&sr=1-5&keywords=PIC+programmer)
The real deal is $50 -
just do it yourself
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holy vegas mode batman
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9 hours ago, Sauraen said:
What's a-matter, you... chicken...?
Heh, no. Sign me up. Been assembling parts for this since you announced it
Been living in the states too long, "oh hell no" is a positive reaction to something
If you do proceed with releasing/group buy/sharing files etc. might I recommend using dual/tri footprints for the tacts like Smash's sequencer boards to future proof it
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oh hell no.
Not pulling any punches are we?
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export it as SVG, open in Illustrator, save as EPS
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check your PM
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That wont be something I'll pursue, expecting people to drill holes into their euro cabinet isnt really a viable option.
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This isnt a breakout module, it will have the DOUT, Line Driver, and AOUT functionality in one module. What JBdriver did is just had a module for the outputs, he still needed to put the boards somewhere for the auto, level shifter and so on
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concept in the OP
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I don't use the "GM5" drivers, I use the current "midijunction" ones from Ploytec, maybe that has something to do with it
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hmm. worked fine the other day when I updated my seq
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I put the LEDs in myself, you could get the ones with the LEDs but they are very expensive (there are 58 of them). They MUST be the 3F version, the 5F with the integrated LED are wired differently and wont work in this application.
There are holes in the PCB for the LED leads but they are not connected to anything so you have to air wire them to the existing LED holes. I just used the legs of the leds and manhandled them into position. This is brutal and tedious work, you have been warned. It's also tricky to get the LEDs to sit right so make sure you make some sort of jig to bend the leads correctly otherwise the switches wont activate correctly. Finally, if you want bicolor LEDs, you need to cut a slot in the switch for the 3rd leg. That sounds worse than it is, I used a rotary tool with a cutting disc (you can see one in the pic above). I thought I took some pics of how I wired everything, ill post them here is I track them down.
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yes, correct sorry. Been a while since I looked at this..
Make sure the 7812 is in V3
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Sorry, I was wrong, you need to jumper the input of the 9V vreg to J72 pin 1.
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It should be fine, did the same thing at one point.
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The 5V is in backwards, The dot is the input. Look at my pic and note the orientation of pin one.
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do you have the switcher in backwards? Post a pic of your board
OLED displays
in MIDIbox SEQ
Posted
I have a friend in italy that could relay anything we need if it's a proble. The winstar stuff is a good find but the Italian place also carries Wisechip stuff which is of interest to me as well (128x64 G OLEDS). See what you can do on your end, Taiwan is a LOT close to Australia than it is to Detroit