lylehaze

Very nice, Good Luck! I hope we get all the details as this unfolds. It's going to take a lot of knobs to get control of this. If you'd like a tool to help out before the MB64 is built, I have java code here for a mixer window.. It would take about three minutes to add six EQ knobs to each channel.. I'd be happy to send you the java code, or even to add the EQ knobs first, if you'll tell me what Control Change numbers you're using for each band. In any case, it looks great.. I'm envious of your project!

I compared your settings to what I see here, they look right on, as far as I can tell. But your ID numbers.. I'm not sure. I mean, it's hard to screw up "all zeros".. but this is an eight byte ID (separated into 2 separate 4 byte packets on your screen).. but since we usually speak in hex.. that should show eight zeros in each of the number gadgets. If the config is wrong, it could affect the sysex request.. maybe, I'm not sure. Worth a try anyway. Put eight zeros into each of the ID spots there. Have Fun, LyleHaze

Yes, too much voltage, or Reversed voltage, are top contenders for PIC damage. There are diodes built in that will _try_ to protect the chip, but there are limits.. This is the biggest argument against using a PC power supply to power your projects. Having regulated five volts handy is nice, but forty amps worth will make little mistakes much more colorful. :) Maybe I should sell fast-blow fuses for a living. Getting back to the OP, it sounds like you shorted the power supply, but most likely the power path did not go through the PIC.. If that's the case, check your power supply out and proceed if it's still working.. repair or replace it if it's not. Once you have good power back on the PIC chip, check for the wakeup SysEx string and you'll know if the heart is beating. LyleHaze

The joystick cable requires some parts. At least an optocoupler, and maybe more. One possible circuit is here: http://home.roadrunner.com/~jgglatt/hardware/pc_intfc.htm More information can be found by going here: http://www.google.com/ and then typing in any questions that you have. Have Fun, LyleHaze

Welcome to the neighborhood. We are keeping a list of USB->MIDI interfaces that have problems at this address: http://www.midibox.org/dokuwiki/doku.php?id=midi_interface_blacklist That's the best place to look to see if there are any problems. As far as I know, soundcard MIDI ports work fine. Have Fun, LyleHaze

OK, now you hurt the IIC modules feelings.. it's little silicon heart is breaking.. I can't give details as I have never used it. Yes, a bit more software, but I think you'll find all the tough stuff is already done for you. (TK is really good that way) Yes, an external merger would work as well. I wonder how the cost of a commercial MIDI merger would compare to the cost of a core8 and an IIC module?.. Or the cost of a Core32? I'm just pointing out that if you want control over HOW the streams are merged, you'll need an "open" design like we have here. In any case, have fun! LyleHaze

from http://www.ucapps.de/mios_bootstrap_newbies.html So that's the original bootloader and the MIOS bootloader, the difference is just a matter of timing. Make sure you don't have your core output looped back to your core input.. (or the PC out to the PC input either).. those might cause a lockup condition. Have Fun, LyleHaze

Most PICs have only one UART/USART/AUSART (serial port).. so only one MIDI IN and one MIDI OUT. You can add another of each by adding an IIC MIDI Module, which adds another in and out.. OR you can promote to a core32, which has 2 MIDI INs and 2 MIDI OUTs.. It's a start! LyleHaze

from the wiki: http://www.midibox.org/dokuwiki/doku.php?id=do_it_yourself The MidiBox community is very “do it yourself†oriented. Don't be offended by the phrase “do it yourselfâ€, it isn't meant to be rude. Although it is there for good reason. The MidiBox community is all about building your own custom MIDI controller. While many parts are available as kits with the necessary components and printed circuit boards, MidiBox is not about simply buying a pre-built MIDI controller from someone else. The community will not build a MidiBox for money and does not tolerate soliciting to have one built for money.

I can give you a few tips.. The upload request (sign of life from PIC) You get these repeatedly if you only have the bootloader in the PIC.. You only get one of these if MIOS is already loaded. I'm pretty sure Smash loads MIOS for you.. so getting just one is correct. I notice you have selected "manual mode" in MIOS Studio.. This is only advisable if you are SURE you have everything just right.. You're not there yet. You need good communication in BOTH directions for the suggested "Smart Mode" to work. Figure out how to get it working in Smart mode.. It's worth your time. Do a loopback test from PC MIDI OUT to PC MIDI IN, without having the core connected at all. Figure out how to receive the messages you are sending, through a MIDI cable.. confirm that thoroughly.. then remove the cable and make sure the messages do NOT come back in.. (this will make sure it's not a software loopback you're really seeing) Then test it again with a second MIDI cable, to make damn sure you have two good MIDI cables. After all that is proved.. THEN connect core OUT to PC in, and PC Out to Core In.. Switch MIOS Studio over to smart mode.. And load a MIOS APPLICATION (not MIOS itself, that's already in there) Have Fun! LyleHaze

Wonderful! It looks like EQ is well on the way. My experience with audio signal processing is not good enough to help, but I hope someone with more knowledge will jump in. It looks very promising, keep up the good work! LyleHaze

Maybe we need a 12 step program for Midibox addicts.. :) LyleHaze

http://widget2.mibbit.com/?settings=cb67a59fa2be3eada8554c859e34d7b8&server=irc.mibbit.net&channel=%23midibox&nick=boops

Yes. The GM5 is a MIDI interface.. and with MIDI we always connect INs to OUTs, and connect OUTs to INs. Assuming you made your GM5 with regular MIDI connectors, you can always try a loopback test: Connect the GM5 by USB to your computer.. Using a known-good MIDI cable, connect the GM5 OUT to the GM5 IN (No core, just the GM5 talking to itself) Now you can use MIDI-OX or really any MIDI utility to test your GM5 and your MIDI cable.. whatever you send to the output should come right back in to the input. Once you get that working, repeat the test with a different MIDI cable. If you have a GM5X5X5 you can also test different ports. At this point you have tested and "proved" your GM5, your MIDI cables, and your PC software and configuration. Disconnect all the "loopback" connections and connect your Core OUT to GM5 IN, and use a second MIDI cable to connect the Core IN to the GM5 OUT. You should be good to go.. Have Fun, LyleHaze

Yes, you can use 12VAC. Yes, it will be hotter that way. Yes, A bigger heatsink will take care of that. You seem to be up on your math.. :) Of course you understand that 12VAC will rectify to something greater than 12VDC, and exactly how much higher is not just math, but depends on the specific transformer you choose, and how the manufacturer rated it. Personally, I have a lot of PIC18F boards used in industrial settings that are powered off 24VDC.. using just a 7805 and an ample heatsink. They do get warm.. :) Oh, and Welcome to the Midibox forums! Have Fun, LyleHaze

OK, it seems T.K. nailed the 0xBA, 0x02 bug.. 0xBA = Status Byte, Control Change, Channel 11 0x02 = Breath Controller (Coarse) 0x?? = Data Value for Breath Control.. So, it's looking for another byte of data there.. I have said it before, that T.K. guy knows his stuff! Have Fun, LyleHaze

If I understand "Series Capacitor".. that would pass AC but block DC.. Since it's a DC fan, I'm guessing that wouldn't help much. But I may be misunderstanding you.. :) LyleHaze

Fans aren't as picky as chips when it comes to voltage, as you have found.. Since the 5 volt regulator is usually running warm anyway, I would not add the fan to that load, but what is your unregulated voltage? After the bridge, before it goes into any regulators, you could tap power without adding heat from any regulators. Or you could add a pull rope like my lawnmower to get it started from 5 volts. :) LyleHaze

If you want to send it to the Atlanta area, I'll program it and send it back. Might take me a day or two, work has been "off the hook", but otherwise I'd be happy to help. Heck, it might even get me motivated to open up the mixer and add the AIN board for the meter bridge. Just a reminder.. static protection is a good idea.. black foam, anti-stat envelope, or whatever you have available. If all else fails, aluminum foil will work too. If I can help, PM me for my mailing address.. LyleHaze

You can increase the possibility of finding local help if you tell us where your "local" is. :) LyleHaze

MIOS can provide Analog to Digital conversion with 7 bit (0 to 127) or 10 bit (0 to 1023) resolution. MIDI provides for most controls to be either 7 or 14 bit. So taking the 10 bit slider position and adding 4 zeroes would give you 10 bit resolution within the MIDI standard. More specific questions will get you more useful answers. Have Fun, LyleHaze

Welcome. From the programming side, both the methods you describe are encoders, so not much difference in the code. MIOS offers a variety of encoder settings, you can try each one and see what works best for your needs. I would _think_ that you'd get higher repeatability with a belt-driven encoder than with a mouse wheel. If I move my mouse up and down five times, there is little chance that the mouse pointer will be in the same place as it was before I started. A belt-driven encoder would probably be more repeatable than a friction driven mouse ball. If you could find a direct encoder that is suitable, that would trump all. I have one here that came home from work, but it's probably too expensive for most people to consider. You'll probably find most of the conversation here centers around the MIOS operating systems, and most of the projects here are based on one of the two MIOS platforms. If you'd like to know more, you can click on the uCApps link above to learn more about it! The "User Projects" part of the forums is usually used for completed MIOS projects that are ready for sharing with the public. A better place for this topic might be "Design Concepts" or "Parts Questions". There is a post at the top of "User Projects" that describes the criteria for posting in this forum. Have Fun, LyleHaze

Happy B-Day!

So.. all those horrible things I wish I had never posted.. Suddenly don't exist anymore?? Dude, you ROCK!! It's all good. :-) LyleHaze

In most cases, you want the wiper voltage going up as you turn the knob to the right. Of course you can wire it the other way for a left-handed DJ.. But probably better to keep it "normal".. turning right raises the voltage, turning left lowers it.