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I have them hopefully soon. I think we have to do our own PCB construction in any case, no matter which box layout we choose. The PCB they offer is a breakout design where every button must be wired seperately. Not exactly what we looking for i guess. Anyway they are expensive. With the extra buttons TK implemented we´d need a own solution most likely, or what do you guys think? Have you finished the schematic for the 8x8 yet? That would be great. :) Might one of the EAGLE Gurus could have a look and try a layout. I could do different CAD designs to visualize that...

That´s a mock up of a 16x16blm with the livid buttons. It has 38x38cm.

Great, Ander! Absolutely brilliant. Could you explain a little how it works?

Cool Blog, MONSTA! I definately enjoy it. Is that Wordpress? /me likey

see next page..

I am a big fan of the 8x8 version too, because i think it is more versatile. Anyway seems to be a very common way of design when researching other sources like monome, arduino, livid, etc. Regarding the buttons i dont think there will be a solution pleasing all of the midiboxers. I personally clearly prefer silicone rubber buttons like the monome solution with an "integrated" led. IMO it´s not clicky, best for playing live and stylish (in terms of design) but i can totally understand the cons (costs, availability, frontpanel not diy-able, etc) I´d say "first come first serve" and the creator of the first pcb decides what to use...

max, dont you think it would have been easier assembling a midibox sid modul on veroboard in the 4 weeks since your last post for testing the sids instead of trying to do so with an old C64 that is likely to be unreliable? :D

1.) Well..that entirely depends on you. Consider that learning a PCB Layout program, creating a schematic and a pcb is a very time consuming process and has very steep learning curve. So i probably wouldnt do it a) on my first project b) when i want the box soon 2.) That´s correct. If you want pictures have a look in the mixibox of the week section. There are some interior pics. Anyway the schematic on ucapps.de is totally clear and sufficient. Wiring is easy...:) 3.) Yes. Get a LCD that is supported by MIOS. You can read in the WIKI which models are compatible and which not. 4.) Yes. USB connectivity. Its a little PCB that is directly wired to the core.

lolz, nILS. I haz had more speedz than you. anyway..its definately confirmed working now :-)

Hi, 1.) yes 2.) yes, its a button 3.) yes, they are buttons. Nervertheless i think it is not very practical. Think about heavy controller action. I dunno how sensitive they are but i could imagine you press them accidentaly.. 4.) Wiring / Generell PCB Design Tutorial 5.) never used them, dunno. very likely they work. 6.) A encoder uses 2 digital inputs. A pushbutton 1. You need 40 inputs for the encoders and another 20 for the buttons = 60 Inputs = 2 x DINX. Correct. 1 AIN is correct as well... 7.)s.a. 8.)s.a. Think about a lcd as well. It comes in very handy when troubleshooting and doesnt cost a lot. Anyway consider building a GM5...

Absolutely awesome! Great build. Would be interesting to see more of the case work and the interior. Cheers, Alex

You´re aware of the fact that only one of the jacks on the backside of the Sammich is an output jack while the other one is an audio Input? It´s not a left mono output and a right mono output. That means you need a stereo 2 two mono plugs to get stereo sound. :-) just in case you missed that.

VCFOOL solved the problem. It was still registered with 5 i/o in the OSX Audio/Midi Setup.

Hey Guys, i just "opened" J1 on my GM5 module so that i only have 1 entry showing up in my sequencer but apparently nothing changes and i still got 5 ins and 5 outs.. J8 is closed (Midibox.org config). i checked the cut...i have no connectivity at all, so that´s not the reason. Anyway i tried to plug in/out the GM5 a few times, didnt change anything What could be wrong? Btw: i noticed that a second module i got doesnt have J8. I am on OSX. Thank you, alex

I use Solidworks for constructing. It´s my favourite CAD app and compared to a few others relatively easy to learn. Nervertheless are CAD apps very time consuming. Rendering is done with photoview360, which is part of the package. If you like to achieve more photorealism you could import it directly to luxology modo and render it there but you could easily spend a life only with finding the right settings... The case is made out of four parts which were cut to 45 degree angle at the ends first and then glued. After that you would normally build a "frame" around the case so that you have a large enough area to apply your router on. The bevel is then made with the router. You could probably made it with a dremel and the milling cap too...but i havent tried that yet. Cleanest version would be the use of a cnc router but i havent one. Would be nice though coz i could feed it directly from my CAD. Inside pics:

wohoooo! thx :-)