phunk

There is no port of the MB64 application to Core32 yet. That means you have to code it yourself. Info can be found here: http://ucapps.de/mios32_download.html http://ucapps.de/mios32_c.html Have Fun ;)

So rein vom Datenblatt her sollten die passen. 24 Steps resolution, detent und non detent, beides verfügbar. Wichtig ist den F-Schaft zu bestellen, sonst passen die ALBS Knöpfe nicht. Footprint habe ich jetzt nicht angeschaut, das müsste man prüfen, wie Du schon gesagt hast, müsste man die LED pins auf jeden Fall biegen, aber das ist ja kein allzugroßes Thema. Interessant wäre der Preis und die Beschaffungsmöglichkeit. Finde das doch mal raus, wenn Du Zeit dafür hast :-) Von Alps selbst gibt es jetzt auch Encoder mit LED, die kosten allerdings 5,x € p.St.

Cool!

Richtichhh! Sollte vor allem aber auch denen entgegenkommen, die halt mal eben ein Core brauchen....oder zwei DIN.

Ein Gesetz ist - zumindest in Deutschland - ein Gesetz. Da gibt´s kein wirklich oder vielleicht. Liegt der Wert der Lieferung unter 22€ und kommt Sie aus einem Drittland, dann ist sie von zollamtlicher Behandlung befreit.

Forget about it. You will never succeed. USE a PIC Core. Nothing bad about it, served for years and is still doing great. Combine it with a GM5 and you have your USB Connectivity. STM is overkill for a MB64 and not needed. Of course you can but Futaba for sure was not the inventor of those. Just normal sil pin housings (mouser# 855-M20-1060200) and (855-M20-1180042) to fit in. Work in little steps. It doesnt make any sense at all to start coding, manufacturing pcbs and all that stuff when you never did it before. Just build a "normal" box with some pcbs from smash and wire the parts. It works very well...you can do all of the other stuff later but learning an ecad app is hell of a lot of work, so is coding. :-) Search? Fail. Search again...download the pdf catalogue. Its a lot easier to find parts... Heaps of them available. ALBS STEC16B03 Encoders (not available at mouser), Alpha (Taiwan) Encoders, Bourns Encoders. (both available at mouser) Should have 24 Steps, non detent. Pots: depends on a lot of things . Many different sizes and resistances...

Have you tried another cable? Have you searched for bad solder joints at the neutrik connector? Swap it with the another connector (e.g. the audio in if you dont have any other)

Basically a a core module is running on 5V while the audio part of an SID module requires 12V (SID6581) resp. 9V (SID8580/6582).<br>Normally that is realized with two voltage regulators, a 7805 for the core and a 7812 for the sid module (SID 6581) which have to be driven by a higher voltage than their output is. (They need "headroom" to work, since they have a voltage drop. Anyway there is another drop over the recitifier diodes). Now there are various options: a) Using two dedicated PSU/ Wallwarts to drive two Vregs. One for the core and one for the SID Module. You could use a 7-10V wallwart for the core and a 15V wallwart for the SID. Depending on whether you use a LCD or not they should have sufficient current rating. (read the module description for more info). b) Using one PSU / Wallwart that drives two Vregs. The more elegant option. 15V (AC or DC) is needed to drive both. 500mA min. current required. Take into account that the Vreg of the core is very likely going to be hot (it "burns" the voltage surplus) and needs a heatsink depending on the load (lcd or not). c) using a C64 PSU (http://ucapps.de/mbhp/mbhp_sid_c64_psu.pdf) d) Using one 12V DC regulated PSU with one Vreg. Drive the core module with a 7805 Vreg and drive the SID directly with the PSU. It must not fluctuate! Quality PSU needed :-)

http://tinyurl.com/469xzcf

Yeah, one thing all the mega blue high brightness LED users often forget. It´s fine running one of them, it´s ok running 5 of them, but it´s an epic fail running 108 of them :-) simultaneously...

Hey, from a technical point of view using 220 ohm with a standard red LED on 5V is definitely ok and pretty much the all time recommendation. Depending on the LED dropout Voltage you get about 15-20mA at the LED, so exactly what is need by a standard type. :) Anything else is personal preference. You could try it with different resistor values and a 5V source though...

dont order blind holes with threads at FP express. I had them made on my last 4mm panel and they suck. You clearly see the marks of the process on the frontside of the panel (if it isnt colored) anyway they arent as stable as they should. (lost two already)

i´ll add a column...let´s see if we might get over the min order for that color...

No, you should be fine then. If the LCD is working when no SIDs are attached the jumpers are set correct. Dont worry about that. As I said it is very likely the used PSU. Make sure it can deliver 500mA before looking for other possible failures.

Yeah, if it is regulated it should deliver 12V DC +- a few %. The 500mA is a minimum requirement depending on the lcd used. A standard lcd needs about 125mA but there are so called "high current" lcds which need a lot more. So if you got one of those, you have to assure that your PSU can deliver enough current.

Hi kroutshev, it is very likely that your powersupply is to weak and can´t deliver the load current when the sids are attached. 12V DC regulated PSU with 500mA or more is needed.

ich weiß nicht warum, aber mir gelingt es nicht das File abzuspeichern, nachdem ich es geändert habe. Jedesmal wenn ich es wieder aufrufe sind die Änderungen hinfällig...

Ok guys, bulk is taking place :w00t: . Official BULK Thread: WIKI Entry: http://www.midibox.org/dokuwiki/doku.php?id=albs_waldorf_knobs_2011_bulk_order

Hey guys, the ALBS Waldorf Bulk Order #1 2011 is taking place. :frantics: The Wiki entry is here: http://www.midibox.o...2011_bulk_order The Bulk Order is closed. Price per KNOB will be 1,13€ (was 1,05). Terms, conditions and dates in the Wiki entry. If you already signed up in the fleamarket thread you will most likely find your name on the wiki list, nevertheless please check it again. If you are interested and haven´t signed up yet please do so soon on the wiki list, since we already got enough people to run the bulk.

nILS solved the riddle: salecom T80-R Thx to both of you ;) ---------- ups...too slow

Hey guys, i somehow lost the part nr. and forgot the name of the manufacturer. The rocker switch used in the sammich...what was it? I think it is the same like in the MB6582... Thank you, alex

0wn3d!

did you tweak the contrast potentiometer?