iZZE Posted March 14, 2017 Author Report Share Posted March 14, 2017 I am glad other people got it working too :) Good looking stuff guys !! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ChinMuzik Posted April 11, 2017 Report Share Posted April 11, 2017 Not sure what I'm doing wrong but my VFD display is giving some garbage output. I've done the following in order. - soldered the SMT Bridges and checked for continuity - uploaded device_id_00_lcd7.hex - uploaded setup_mb6582.hex Powered up, I'm getting this. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
iZZE Posted April 17, 2017 Author Report Share Posted April 17, 2017 I am having the same Problem.. so need to figure out why.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
iZZE Posted April 21, 2017 Author Report Share Posted April 21, 2017 (edited) Just a quick update - i got the old driver from hawkeye but i could not get it to work on my MB6582. Currently i am modifying the driver with a little more stopcycles and i added a filtering stage on the VFD with an 47uF, 100nF, 10nF, 1nF Cap directly going to +5V / GND. I also added a ferrite cable shield near the VFD and it seems that now i get reasonable output. Sometimes when there are fast changes i still have the display a little bit buggy but i will post the hex of the modified firmware (with V2.045) as soon as i get it more stable. So i would recommend to all that are having problems to check their power supply and shielding. If you use a switching regulator it is very likely that you have noise on your +5V Line - if you don't use a switching regulator it is very likely you don't have enough power to drive the VFD. Edited April 21, 2017 by iZZE Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hawkeye Posted April 21, 2017 Report Share Posted April 21, 2017 Glad it works now and that you took my advice of filtering the power supply lines and adding the ferrite to the data lines. :-) I never experienced the problem, because i am using a 78S05 capable of delivering 2 Amps and that is easily enough for the MB6582 (in conjunction with a heatsink) - i know why i sometimes prefer linear vregs and why i recommended it in about 5 of our 10 total private messages we exchanged on this matter :-). It is also a nice footwarmer in winter. :-) @Altitude: this might explain your VFD troubles we had a few years back... the Recom switcher seems to be a bit RF-noisy and the VFDs seem to be easily distracted by that noise. In a non-midibox project also a few years back, i had severe troubles with another switching 780X replacement, that totally bombed the 433 MHz band, but that is another story... Many greets, Peter Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ChinMuzik Posted April 21, 2017 Report Share Posted April 21, 2017 I'm gonna give this a go again. The VFD looks so good Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
iZZE Posted April 22, 2017 Author Report Share Posted April 22, 2017 Ok guys.. got it working now. Here is a short summary for those who would also like to give it a try: Upload the attached "setup_mb6582_vfd.hex" (its the newest V2.045 with hawkeyes driver and a couple of more stopcycles) Solder a 47uF, 100nF, 10nF and 1nF Cap directly on the LCD (+5V / GND). Put a ferrite on the cable near the plug of the LCD. Before the ferrite put in an 56uH inductor into the cable - solder it and put a shrinktube over it to protect from shortcircuit. I tried it now with very fast changes in Menus etc. etc. and it seems to be stable. If you can't get it to work please also try to erase your pic and start from scratch (bootloader - mios / firmware - etc.) and don't change the LCD ID to 7 (like with the OLED) - just upload the setup_mb6582_vfd.hex. If its still not working i can make a copy of my complete pic and send you the hex for burning a 1:1 copy of my pic. Have a good weekend. setup_mb6582_vfd.hex Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Magus517707 Posted May 5, 2017 Report Share Posted May 5, 2017 @iZZE, Dude, you rock. I am so glad you figured out the issue. Got my Oled up and running. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
iZZE Posted May 6, 2017 Author Report Share Posted May 6, 2017 (edited) @Magus517707 good to see many happy oled and vfd users :-D Edited May 6, 2017 by iZZE Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Johey Posted September 24, 2017 Report Share Posted September 24, 2017 I'm just about to try replacing my LCD with an OLED. Just wondering, what do the jumpers on the base board do? Do I need to patch them? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Johey Posted September 24, 2017 Report Share Posted September 24, 2017 Figured it out. :) Before, with the old LCD: After installing OLED: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Johey Posted September 24, 2017 Report Share Posted September 24, 2017 (edited) Figured it out. :) Before, with the old LCD: After installing OLED: Only problem now is that the OLED display is much thinner than the LCD, hence sinking very deep into the panel. I will try 3d printing some bezel to cover for it to some extent. That's probably what I can do, save trying to raise the OLED panel from the PCB, which would likely fail miserably. Edited September 24, 2017 by Johey Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Altitude Posted September 24, 2017 Report Share Posted September 24, 2017 I just stuck a darkly tinted window, it obscures the depth.. There is no way to go in front of the PCB, it will interfere with the tacts Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Johey Posted September 24, 2017 Report Share Posted September 24, 2017 I mean separating the OLED panel from its own PCB, installing some kind of raisers. But I guess there is some kind of leading rubber list in contact with the PCB via some coal layer, and I don't have the equipment nor knowledge modifying that. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ytsestef Posted December 3, 2017 Report Share Posted December 3, 2017 Does this mod work on the original CORE_8_Module (non-MB6582 version) too? I am talking about SIDV2 usage, not another MIDIBox project. Are the hex upload and the bridges still required? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
d0pefish Posted August 17, 2020 Report Share Posted August 17, 2020 Hi there, Sorry for bumping an old thread, but just to let anyone know who's researching this that I believe I've fixed the issue when using the Raystar OLED in 4-bit mode. I was looking over the CLCD init sequence and something didn't seem right, so I made some changes and offered it as a pull request for to TK to review when he gets some free time: https://github.com/midibox/mios8/pull/2 With these changes, you can keep the PIC ID set to the usual (no need for custom LCD driver) and you don't need to solder the bridges on the MB6582 to enable 8-bit mode. You will also see the "READY." prompt after loading MIOS. If you want to test this, I've attached a build of the latest version MIOS8 with these changes. This is what I'm using in my MB6582 with a Raystar REC002004AYPP5N00000. I don't have any "normal"/old-style LCDs to test with this code, so I'd also appreciate anyone who has one to test this version of MIOS8 and confirm whether it works or not, as I don't want to break support for working screens of course Thanks! mios_p18f4685.hex 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
iZZE Posted August 23, 2020 Author Report Share Posted August 23, 2020 Cool.. thanks for the update :) Still running both my VFD and OLED Boxes. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.