FantomXR
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Posts posted by FantomXR
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@Zam: I followed up on this today. Meanwhile I received the new PCBs where the LEDs are not sitting on the fader-PCBs. The jitter has improved a lot. Thanks for the suggestion. I also tried, not using the USB-power directly from a computer which also improved the stability and the jitter-issues. Anyway: If both PCBs (and the core of course) are powered from the same power supply, I still get some jittering. Way less than before. But it's still there. The only solution for now is, to use a totally separate power supply for the LEDs, but share GND with the core & fader PCB. This works great... but I'm not totally satisfied with using two power supplies.
I did some experimenting with direct USB-power. Like I wrote it's not good, to power everything from the same port. But, and that is kind of weird, if I use one USB-port for the core & faders / AIN and another USB-port from the same computer for the LEDs, it works great too. I don't think it has something to do with power consumption because I tested it with 16 LEDs at low brightness. They shouldn't draw too much current.
I also measured with an oscilloscope. I'm not very experienced with that... but I noticed some voltage drop when switching the colors from the LEDs and it seems that this will influence the AIN. So my question is: Is there a way to power everything from one power supply but add some filtering before the LEDs (or AIN?) ? Do you have any recommendations on this?
Thanks!
Chris -
Alright. I found a way to boost the brightness of the OLEDs.
It's in the app_lcd.c of the universal-driver folder in line 678
APP_LCD_Cmd(0x7f); // middle
change it to
APP_LCD_Cmd(0xff); // high
done!
But anyway: My new oleds are still much darker than the other ones....
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Hey out there,
I received another bunch of OLEDs from China and they are much darker than the others I had before. Is there any solution on the software-side for that issue?
I don't know what I need to change on the hardware-side / on the OLEDs to make them brighter....Thanks,
Chris -
Dear TK!
Thanks for clearing this up. Yes, I can define unique MIDI ports in my host. But a definition in the driver would be ideal.
Anyway: If it's not possible, we can't do anything!
Best,
Chris -
2 minutes ago, Hawkeye said:
If you need fewer or more virtual USB ports, you can change MIOS32_USB_MIDI_NUM_PORTS.
Many greets,
PeterYes, I know. But you have to adjust not only the MIOS32_USB_MIDI_NUM_PORTS. You also have to edit the midi_port.c in the midi_router-folder. Otherwise the terminal will give you error messages about invalid output and input ports if you try to use the midibox-router.
Thanks for the hint... I'll have a look.
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Dear Peter,
that problem I fixed already. See here:
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Hey people,
I'm not sure if this has been asked before (maybe by me?!) but I was not able to find something with the search engine.
I'd like to know if there is a way to assign individual names to the four USB ports the midibox provides when connecting to a windows computer?Thanks,
Chris -
Hi!
Any ideas for the whole thing / eveything? -
Why don't you call nothing with section == 0 but assign metas to the buttons directly so that they load a NGC file when hitting them?
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It seems that I've got it working. I changed in ws2812.c this line
#define WS2812_BUFFER_SIZE (((WS2812_NUM_LEDS+2)*24)) // +2*24 to insert the RESET frame
to
#define WS2812_BUFFER_SIZE (((WS2812_NUM_LEDS+2)*24)+200) // +2*24 to insert the RESET frame
because of the 300us reset, the 2017 WS2812B need.
The LEDs are now working. I didn't do a mass-test, but it looks promising.
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There is a post from Adafruit where they report the new LEDs. And they say that they had to adjust the reset-time and everything went well again.
But in the midibox code I do not see any kind of reset-feature....
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Thanks for that hint! I found that document:
Now I need to figure out, how I make the adjustments to the firmware.... if even possible?
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Hey people,
I ordered a new bunch of WS2812B LEDs. The problem: They are not working! I tested them in the same environment as the last bunch, which worked great. But the new LEDs do not.
I at first thought that I received the wrong LEDs. But I doublechecked with an Arduino and they work well on those as well as my old LEDs.I tried to replace the pullup with a 470Ohm and a 10k but both is not working.
Any ideas?
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I found it!
There are several CS lines available at J10B! ;-)
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I finally was able to test what you suggested! It works perfect! Thanks!
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13 minutes ago, latigid on said:
Did you define the max number of LCDs? I have some PCBs that provide more CS lines on simple headers if you need.
You mean in the bootloader? Yes of course!
I only need one more CS. Can you tell me where to get it from? This schematic:http://ucapps.de/mbhp/mbhp_lcd_ssd1306_single_mios32.pdf
says, at J28 are four CS available. But the STM-core has no J28.
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Hey people,
I have a problem with my OLEDs. I can get the first 8 OLEDs working without any problems. But the 9th OLED is mirrored with the 8th.
I use the STM32F4 core and I used the 2nd E-line for the 9th display that is available at PC9 of the STM32F4. Do I have to enable this line in the firmware? Can't find anything about it.
Thanks!
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You can transpose the keyboard with using the bank-mechanism and the kb_transpose-function (see NGC manual).
Actually I don't see a comfortable way doing what you are after...
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Hey people,
one more question on this:
I'd like to clear a specific OLED before displaying the received text. How to achieve that? My problem is: If the newly received text message has less characters than the old, the non-overwritten characters will stay there. I tried a few different things like label=%C, etc. but this is not working at my side.Also it would be enough, if NG just adds some spaces after a received message. So I tried stream="0xf0 0x11 0x22 0x33 0x00 0x00 ^txt 0x20 0x20 0x20 0x20 0xf7" which should output 4 spaces after the text-message... but that's not working.
Any suggestions?
Thanks! -
Okay, I did some checking.
The problem with the booting times and the connection-problem is gone if I set single_usb to 0 in the bootloader. So with 4 USB ports the Macbook boots up normally and I can connect and disconnect the midibox without any problems.
But regarding the topic-problem: This occurs only on KB. NG works fine (as far as I checked it yet). I don't think it's a mac-midi-problem, because I can see it clearly if I open MIOS Studio, that if I press down a key, it sends "(optimized)" and if I release the key it sends the note with the value... so it's working in reverse till I restart the midibox after OS-boot.
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It runs KB and not NG.
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Another problem occured: I updated my MacBook to Sierra. Now the computer needs 10-12min for boot with the MIDIbox connected. If I disconnect it, it boots much faster. Also if I'm in the OS, disconnect the MIDIbox a reconnect it again, the keyboard will not be recognized anymore till next boot....
Damn!!
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@Zam: Some more informations on this. Today I tried to use a separate powersupply for the LEDs. The LEDs are still attached to the fader-pcb... I already created a new PCB, but this needs to be produced first. Anyway: the jitter stays... also I found out that the jitter also occurs if the LEDs are not even switched on! Meanwhile I think it's more a problem wit shielding... I took a piece of copper foil, attached a cable to it and connected it to GND. When I put this piece of foil between the LED-strip and the fader the jitter will slow down but does not disappear.
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No, nothing! Also it doesn't depend on which macbook I use... I have some of them here of other productions. Didn't test with a windows notebook yet.
If I use a USB-power-supply to boot up the midibox, it works... so this is kind of weird and I don't know where to look at...
AINSER deadband configuration?
in MIDIbox NG
Posted
Thanks for your suggestions!
I'll keep an eye on it again tomorrow. I took a look into the LM317 datasheet and it looks like it needs Vin - Vout = 5V, which is with 5V = Vin not possible.
If I want to use another source for Vref, do I just need to change the source for Vref or also for VDD of the MCP3208? And the 10Ohm resistor than is no longer needed?
Thanks!