DrBunsen

Now that sounds effective :D Have his auctions (and associated keywords) on your watch list; have your counter-listing prepared beforehand, and drop it straight into the queue after his. Probably best not to name him, all the while making it completely obvious what auctions you're talking about. And explain in BIG LETTERS what DIY, non-commercial license, DIY, IP theft, and NO WE WON'T BUILD YOU ONE mean. Eg: Why pay for this: When you can build this? argh remind me how to resize images someone?

One thing to check before choosing LC vs 64 vs 64e is what control signals your software responds to. Don't confuse the "look" of the hardware in the photos of each project with the firmware underlying it. Either project can have either faders or knobs on the front. It's the firmware inside that determines how those controls map to your software LC = Logic Control ie it uses the Control signals for Apple/Emagic Logic and compatible hardware and software 64e = any MIDI signal can be assigned to any knob/fader

Replicant?

Sounds like you want to build a MIDIbox 64e or one of the MIDIbox HUIs. Don't worry about these being "big" projects - you can build in only the features (number of faders for example) you want. It would be far easier to build a ready-to-go project with already written firmware than to start from scratch. Have a good look at the pages at ucapps.de for the MIDIbox 64, 64e and LC.

Aww man... one of my friends from Sydney is on his friend's list. I'll be forwarding a link to this thread on to him

MIDIboxFX a work in progress, but containing many clues

;D

I'm not sure we're going to make that much of an impact on world supplies of C=64s. They sold 6 million of the beggars

There are projects around the web to make Waveblaster daughtercards into stand alone MIDI sound modules. You might be interested in doing one of them. Or once you're more familiar with MIOS and the MBHP, making a MIDIbox version. Or stick the words "waveblaster" or "isa" into the search box here to see previous research on this topic. There's certainly a lot more to interfacing a PIC to an ISA card than connecting it to 12V. There are examples where people have used ISA ethernet cards with PICs which a bit of Googling should turn up.

[img width=200 height=200]http://mykeyboard.co.uk/keycaps/graphics/keycaps_xkeys.jpg A little pricey, but a nice looking solution to my FBLM. (Yes, stryd, I think the POS keyboard I got for you has Cherry switches)

Not me mate

My bad. I was thinking of John Simonton.

K. RTFthread, Bunsen ::) When I said Shifty's Death Synth, I meant this OpenDSP project, but you probably knew that. Mind you, I've had the board for that on my watch list (worldwide) and unless my search terms are borked, they seem to show up about three times a year. And not when I have cash, either.

The late great Craig Anderton to the rescue. There ya go: builf away :) As far as multiFX go, I can't love my Digitech Quad Four enough. It's a little green slab of awesome. And it has a vocoder. Four ins, four outs, up to four simultaneous FX, routing, mixing, panning, and seven parameters per effect that can be mapped to either MIDI, input dynamics or internal LFOs. That and it sounds reeeeeeal nice, and they're cheap nowadays. Also available in Studio Quad v1 and v2 black.

I'm confused ... why do you need to delay it?

Check out PsyHarmonics label from Australia.

Behringer SHARC DSP 110? It's a mic pre/delay line/feedback killer/comp thing, think it's mono, but it's dirt cheap. Get two. Or you could do something similar with Shifty's Death Synth

Try robotics and model/RC car suppliers. There should be some nice small nylon parts from Tamiya that will do what you need.

And those values could be found by poking around inside a Juno I'm picturing a socket, with replaceable filter modules. I'm hearing a Juno with 303 filters. I'm thinking of software switchable filter modules. I'm seeing the ($)-($) from selling working 8007a's to fund this. I'm picturing an MKS that sounds like nothing else on this earth. OK, so who had that macro of Homer Simpson drooling? Because that's the sound I'm making now. Would they even need to be SMT trannies? Because there's a stack of room inside my MKS :) Wanna go halves?

There's an attempt here (badly translated from French partly by Google, partly by me)

I'm searching: I'm looking to restore a Juno 106 (MKS7 - the rackmount version), rather than a general purpose filter for MB projects. Though if that becomes an option, sweet. We've been discussing in Chat the possibility of reverse engineering an 80017a clone and open sourcing the design. That would give hackers the option of restoring their dead Junos at a lower price (and more labour) than the available substitutes. I just found this most interesting image in an article on Matrixsynth. As you can see, there are separate I/O pins for the VCF and VCA stages, for both signal and control. The VCF is a Roland IC?* called an IR3109 and the VCA is BA662* So in essence they're two completely separate blocks, which breaks the cloning problem down into two parts: cloning the IR3109 and the BA662. Or alternatively: making a socketed adapter board that can take SSM ICs for VCF and VCA. There are trimpots on the mainboard which allow you to fine tune the sound so each voice matches. I also found a block diagram for the insides of the chip here *according to this they are surface mount versions called A1QH800170 and uPC1252H2 BA662 =============================================================== Other links and snippets: A good 80017a replacement walkthrough Guitar Synth Repair Tips has pdf links for calibration, schematics inc 106, MKS30 To check which voice IC is bad, do this: This guy cut open an 80017a and had a look :) Analog Workshop: *From Harmony Central forums:

I've not seen any courses at that level based on PICs. Though you won't use PIC asm in that course, it would still be useful - maybe just taking course one and see how you go.

BTW it's not MIDI as is?

Put some masking tape down along your cut lines before you cut. It will help to keep the surface nice. And you can mark your cutting lines on the tape rather than on the powder coat. Having seen the photo of that controller now, I gotta echo the comments about keeping it as is! That would make an awesome MB64E My suggestion would be: JB Weld the flat bar underneath the existing panel, then bolt or screw your panel to that. You'll need to weld a bar at top and bottom I guess, as well as the sides if you want.

Surely between all of us we could reverse engineer something? I could donate a working one to the cause. It's not like my MKS7 is doing anything right now :(