stryd_one

Banking is just the word for the thing you guys are talking about... like say, you have a bank of 16 knobs, they control parameter 1-16... then you flip to the second bank, and the same physical knobs now control parameter 17-32. There are many variations to the theme....

Maybe you should be more raging... you didn't choose it, you just have to use it. Thus; get mad, not guilty. Use your midibox to write a song about it if it bugs you enough ;)

hehehe it's getting there! At the moment I'm spending a bit of time ironing out the details with the way a few things interact.. yaknow like, getting DVD codecs to work with subtitled movies, which means removing the standard video player that uses a gstreamer codecs backend and replacing it with the same app that uses a xine backend... For the end user, this takes only two lines in a script to do, but takes me a week of troubleshooting to pin down... and other annoying small scraps like that.... I think that all efforts will be a waste if people try to use this thing and it just won't behave, noone will bother to use it ;) Anyway if you've got some diskspace to spare, you can start with WUBI (runs ubuntu in a VM within windows) or better yet ubuntu studio, and I can supply you with a list of repositories and packages to add to the system, so you can try it out...

I think that strictly speaking, meter is the sonic (rhythmic) characteristic that is denoted by time signature... Like you moogah I've heard the upper/lower numbers in the time sig referred to as beat/meter... I don't know if that's strictly correct, but the one I'm really after is the formal term. ... (long pause) Okay while I was writing this I had a lightbulb-moment, and it 'clicked':if the time signature is the scripted notation for meter (as in, if you gotta write down a meter, you use a time signature) then in fact the fractional form we use most commonly, is not the time signature, but only one method of representation of it - as such, the formal terms would be those of any other fraction, ie, numerator and denominator.... So rather than googling to search for an answer (which yielded only "upper/lower" and stuff like "the top one" heh) I googled to confirm/deny that answer... And it seems I'm on the money. So: Numerator and denominator constitute a fraction The fraction is used as a form of time signature Time signature denotes meter OK so now I know what to put in my menus :D I think there's an important music theory lesson here... and it's nothing to do with rhythmic or notational aspects of music... It's that sometimes theory can be extremely helpful and make you a better musician, or at least be an interesting topic of discussion... and sometimes it can be a waste of time that doesn't help you write a song any better at all. Educate yourselves in moderation! ;) Thanks a million for your input guys, this was really racking my brain!

Oops missed that bit sorry! Thanks philetaylor :) If your voltages look OK, and your app is correctly configured (which app is it anyway?) SRIO interconnection test and ain64_din128_dout128 applications will narrow it down... Remember to test the SRIO control lines on all points all the way from pic to 165. The problem may not be the 165 or the protoboard,, If you don't have some other form of input (pots etc), it's probably worth using MIOS Studio to print a message on screen and see if the core is alive.

You've done it again man!

Pat on the back, not kick in the ass ;) Rock on!

These are the kind of things that fall into this category: :D

Sounds like you have your pot wired wrong, so that the pot causes a short when the wiper is all the way to one side. Probably you have something like A----------B | C (wiper) It should be: A is 5V, B is 0V, and C to the AIN. I think you may have done A is 5V, C is 0V, and B to the AIN. In that case, with the pot all the way down (wiper C next to point A) there is no resistance between 5V and 0V == you have a short == dead core.

Welcome aboard Techhnosound, Well I think you'll be fine. So long as you can read through a bit of documentation, and follow it, you will be fine I'm sure. If you trip up, there are currently a few thousand members who might like to help you ;) I'd grab my SIDs from Wilba if I were you... Have a poke around the wiki and ucapps.de for your 1-2-3-4-5 steps (what's there, is what there is!), and if there's stuff missing, have a search, and let us know if you see anything that needs updating or explaining. And don't be afraid. You can see lots of threads on the forum, and many others people never even mention, where total newbies have come here and walked out with a synth under their belt. My electronics experience prior to midiboxing, with the exception of a few mostly failed experiments with old electronics like TV's (ZAP, OUCH) was only the high school electronics course. Now I'd have a shot at almost anything! Like I always say: I don't know anyone who was born a guru. And what better place to start learning than here ;)

Hahahah I didn't even notice that! Well they are logically the same, in that the logical truth tables are the same. But not logically the same in that the electrical logic thresholds are the same. You're right this language sucks We need MB-esperanto! :D

LS vs HC is Low Power Schottky vs Highspeed CMOS. The difference is in the logic levels. Search Results show that stryd one likes to repeat himself. :D Edit: Would help if I answered the question! To quote from an abovelinked hit: PIC pins drive peripherals at CMOS levels, so they will drive the AIN. So yes, it will work. But no your store guy was wrong, they aren't the same.

Now here we have a project that really does need more than one core! You've got a great grasp on it mate, well done. Your graphics are ace, too! On a side-note, how'd you do those? There is one thing I'd change... This may seem unintuitive at first, but I would rearrange the order of modules to go: Deck C+D --> Deck A+B --> Master+LCD -- > onward. Then, you can have the Deck X=Y modules upstream, send control messages. This will allow you an easy way to see on screen what you are doing with your decks/knobs/etc. Now as for software... I don't know anything about this, but does MB64 send messages that are able to be used by traktor? You may need to run custom software on the deck cores or something (like the high res decks or traktorizer do)... I'll leave this to the experts! Nice one!

Good blogging you got here man, thanks :) As intended: PIC based Core Good work! You can setup the hardware for pots and encoders in the setup_*.asm file. See quotes from the comments:

Search for it! it's definitely there! :D

Thanks man :) Let us know when you're done... if you like, it can be added to SVN so that future v2 releases will include your setup?

Don't worry, it happens to us all. There's even a word for it: *brainfart*

Hahaha someone finally did it! Wicked! Yeh man throw it on SVN please :D

I'd use button and led matrices to avoid the need for a 2nd box.... but of course that means a custom app, so some coding req'd...

ahhh smash, he's predictable in his guruness :D Glad it's behaving now!

Sweet! Phil's right, the LCD is likely to be a bit easier ;) I guess there is a lesson here, that if you don't get the reading you expect when you test with a meter, test at as many points as possible along the 'path' of the signal, to see if you can locate the problem. In this example, if you test the PIC pin and expect 5V and get 0V, then test at the bottom of the socket, at the header, on the wires at either end of the cable, on the breadboard, at the switch, at the other side of the switch, on the power rail, etc etc... It sounds like a lot, but really it's only tap, tap, tap, ... and takes like 5 seconds... Definitely worth it when you consider the alternative!

Geez it was already bigger than ben hur... Then you add all that! That's really amazing man.

Seconded, thirded, moved to MBOTW... uhm... We shoud blog it... uhm.... Cimo I need video and uhm... Lourdes' phone number. Grrrrowl!

Ahh okay it seems we tend to align our switches differently on breadboard (rotated 90degrees) , But even then in your pic it is not connected to the jumper at the top... well it's connected to the jumper but you don't have anything plugged into that pin (the far right pin on the jumper) correct, do NOT remove that resistor or you will fry things (short it) If you've got 5V on one side of the resistor and 0V on the other, the resistor is dead (that'd be a first! heheh) If you've got 5V on one side of the resistor and 5V on the other, and 0V on the PIC pin, your wiring between the resistor and PIC is dodgy. Maybe you really do have that switch inserted wrong? Edit: actually that makes sense with your 0.3V reading because the 5V-resistor-gnd would be hardwired always, then that would be connected to the PIC pin when you switch on, and it should still read near 0, but there would be a small leakage due to the resistance... Edit2: only, that still doesn't make sense because in your image the PIC just isn't connected to anything at all...

j5:0---+--/\/\/----5V | \--switch---GND ASCII art... can't beat it. Well, you can, but it's still cool :)