nILS

?! The WIKI page I linked suggests using http://www.ucapps.de/mios/ain64_din128_dout128_v2_0.zip, which is directly linked from there. Don't fear any harm - just follow the instructions ;)

...or check to WIKI, which has an incredibly nice HowTo on that topic *cough* http://www.midibox.org/dokuwiki/changing_din_pins

18F4685 gibt's unschlagbar günstig bei SmashTV (die dazu gehörigen Platinen auch) ---> http://www.coinoptech.com "Unschlagbar günstig" unter anderem wegen des super-miesen Dollarkurses von im Moment ~1 Euro = 1.5201 U.S. dollars ;D

Dann tu mal mehr Ampers rein - dann weißte ob's am NT liegt ;-)

Good to hear you got this far ;D Does the display show something other than a black bar? For instance something along the lines of "MIOS 1.9f..." - if that's the case - the OS is installed and (probably) working. Correct. None of the circuits "increase the signal", they merely reduce/avoid noise (especially the 50/60Hz buzz). That really depends on your speakers ;-) *Any* noise is audible. Generally speaking the noise isn't really bad without the optimized circuit. That seems to be an easy solution doesn't it ;) A piece of veroboard will do the trick. Right. They're pretty common and should be found at virtually any electronics store (reichelt, conrad, mouser, ...) It's not really like it's a big adventure - the wiring is really simple and as you've already noticed quite well documented - go for it! Essentially, yes. Yes and no. It sends 5V to the core, so you don't need the 7805 voltage regulator. It does not however send the "correct" voltage to the SID modules as the 8580/6582 need 9V and the 6581 needs 12V. What it does is send 14V which the 7812 voltage regulator (for 6581) or the 7809 voltage regulator (for 8580/6582) regulate to the desired voltage. Any more question? Well, I got some: 1) Are you building a v1 or v2? 2) Is it just this one core and one sid?

Ummm... The resistor networks (= bridge resistor things) *need* to be put in the right way around. One pin on one side should be marked, this one has to go on the side of the 5V rail (the side marked with ^ on smash's boards). If you put them in the wrong way, only one of the 4 pins could *possibly* work. Check that first.

0) Do you have an LCD on the core? 1) Are the ICs in the DIN boards put in the right way around 2) Is the cabling correct 3) Is the DIN board connected to the correct header on the CORE 4) Are the resistors on the DIN boards the correct value 5) Did you connect each button so that one pair of the pins of the button goes to GND and the other goes to one of the data pins of the SRs? 6) Have you tried "emulating" buttons with a piece of wire?

Wenn's schon ein Acronym sein soll, dann doch bitte sowas wie La Nerve Controller: LogicAudioNuEndoReasonVEgas Alternativen die sich bilden lassen wären: London, Diva, Gore's End,... der Phantasie sind keine Grenzen gesetzt - hilfreich für die Phantasie: http://wordsmith.org/anagram/, http://www.acronymfinder.com ;D

@Tobsen: Would you mind editing your first post and putting a "NSFW" next to the link? We don't wanna get anyone into trouble here ;)

Did you try the http://ucapps.de/mios/ain64_din128_dout128_v2_0.zip application? It'll let you press buttons and tell you the shift register and PIN number. That's an easy way to test your DINs + wiring.

/tilted/'s answer is correct. Although you *can* run 2 cores on 9v 500mA, *if* you do not have a CS, LCD or anything else that eat up your amperage (mmmm amperage). As soon as a (backlit) LCD comes into play you'll want a more to have more current available. 1A seems to be a pretty decent amount for most midibox applications (w/o motors).

Nice work! I love that you put on the front plate at an angle, so much more convenient ;D

Exactly. OT: That made my day :-) My parents never really liked the way I investigated stuff as a kid for some reason though. "No, mom, it's cool, I just wanna see what's in dad's tube amp!" Amen.

Nice work napierzaza. I've see some minor room for improvements though: * Make sure you can actually find 2200µF caps in 10.5mm diameter before etching the board - the smallest ones I've see so far are 13mm * You can easily move away the caps from under the SIDs * Some components (like C9 for instance) are better off rotated by 180° - that way they're not as much in the way of your traces. ;-)

Erm, SLP, die 14V sind durchaus erwünscht ;)

Juchu - mehr Troubleshooting ;-)

I don't know what exactly your question is but I have a feeling that later on you'd like some more buttons ;-) The shift and up /down are really handy I wouldn't leave them out.

Erm... - die 14V werden an sich schon auf der Seite des Netzteils erzeugt, und - alles hängt an einer gemeinsamen Masse, - d.h. da Du die SIDs nach Deiner Beschreibung mit den 5V + GND über die Core/SID Verbindung fütterst, dürfte - wenn Du also die Cores gar nicht angeschlossen hast auf Seiten der SIDs gar keine Spannung zu messen sein, - da es keine Masse gibt. Wenn Du das Ding nach Plan aufgebaut hast sollte es an den Spannung rein garnichts ändern ob die Cores angeschlossen sind oder nicht, da die SIDs die 14V an J1 und 5V + GND direkt vom Netzteil kriegen. Mein Vorschlag: Bau alles nochmal ab und mach die Verkabelung nochmal von vorne *exakt* nach Plan.

Technically every sale is possibly the last sale ever ;-)

See readme.txt that comes with the .zip file: And in the setup_mbfm_v2.asm file around line 60 you'll find: MIOS_ENC_PIN_TABLE ;; encoders 1-16 ;; SR Pin Mode #if CS_MENU_USE_INCDEC_BUTTONS ENC_EOT #else ENC_ENTRY 1, 0, MIOS_ENC_MODE_DETENTED2 ; menu encoder #endif ;; additional CS encoders ;; SR Pin Mode ENC_ENTRY 3, 2, MIOS_ENC_MODE_DETENTED2 ; Multipurpose Enc #1 ENC_ENTRY 3, 4, MIOS_ENC_MODE_DETENTED2 ; Multipurpose Enc #2 ENC_ENTRY 3, 6, MIOS_ENC_MODE_DETENTED2 ; Multipurpose Enc #3 ENC_ENTRY 4, 0, MIOS_ENC_MODE_DETENTED2 ; Multipurpose Enc #4[/code] Read. Then: Read more.

Patience is a virtue.

Okay, your questions are a bit confusing, but I'll try to answer them ;-) ?! I seriously doubt that there's any unused 8580s. If that's really the case - does this source have any more or did you buy 'em all and what's the price tag? Correct. Which is exactly what it is supposed to do... Don't. Okay. Um, the 14.x Volts you get out of the PSU are correct and exactly what you want. The SID board has a 7809 on it which regulates that voltage down to 9V. So just feed the 14V into the SID and you'll be fine. Everything's fine I guess ;)

I said this before, I just wanna make sure I get the main points across: * This PSU is dirt-cheap. * It doesn't need any modifications * It doesn't add a lot of static noise but it does crackle

Yes, it should ;-)

Germany hasn't received any SIDs yet :(