Wilba

The other J15 headers don't have backlight circuits, since they are only there for completeness and maybe for debugging with an LCD that doesn't need backlight.

I forgot... put a Puma hub motor in my mountain bike and crank it up with an 84V LiPO battery pack. I just finished putting the hub into a wheel and making an additional torque arm out of a chunk of steel (absolute requirement because otherwise the motor would tear itself out of the rear dropouts). The Puma is a geared brushless hub motor and is insanely fast. Here's some video I shot of my friend in his electric powered KMX Kart. http://au.youtube.com/watch?v=oK4FOv4FD1Q

Based on datasheet calculations, the 5V supply usage is ~1000mA. PICs are 23mA each, 6582A SIDs 70/100mA each, LEDs 100mA max, LCD ~280mA. If the SIDs are at the max current, then it's ~1200mA. 9V supply usage is ~320mA. Some people have trouble with the C64 PSU not supplying enough current - i.e. their MB-6582 works with a few SIDs but stops working with five or more. You probably won't have that problem if you use a new transformer. BTW I have far too many (i.e. a lifetime supply) of this transformer: http://www.midibox.org/forum/index.php/topic,10832.msg83349.html#msg83349 and they came with connected switch and mains power socket. They cost a bomb to get shipped here, but they're still probably cheaper than anything you can find in Australia. It's smaller than the C64 PSU's transformer, which is essentially 2x 9VAC @ 1.5A.

(In no particular order...) Get a case for my MB-SEQ. Run the MB-SEQ "kit" bulk order. Build another MB-6582. Build a rack-mount MB-SID (8 SIDs) with 4 AOUT_NG, 4 SSM2044 filters. Build an MB-FM. Build a Core32. Build a two-touch ribbon controller with ADC->Core32->MIDI out. Trip to Europe. Liberate the last remaining new-old stock of 6582A SIDs and sell to MIDIbox SID builders.

Great idea, Sasha! I'm doing exactly the same kind of construction for my next project :)

Awesome stuff! Yell out if you need help with wiring a new switch/LED matrix, I'd be glad to help. Did you align switches/LEDs/encoders so you can build the CS using standard 100mil spacing protoboard?

I'm not sure exactly what you mean by "mods on the c64 psu". Do you mean: 1. how to configure the PCB to be either 9V only or 12V/9V (i.e. PSU Option A and PSU Option B) 2. the first run of PCBs which expected 5V supply on one pin, but some C64 PSU transformers output 5V on a different pin If it's #1, that's in the documentation. If it's #2, that was fixable in the revision 1 boards by soldering a wire across two pins of the socket, and fixed in revision 2 boards. Note also I have been very lazy and not updated the documentation with PDFs of the latest PCBs. There are only a couple of minor differences.

Sorry to hear that Sasha... I was building an OPL3 board when I was distracted by other things :) and never finished it, so I can't even say that this batch of OPL3 worked for me... Obviously I couldn't test SMD chips, only assume they were all good, and took all anti-static precautions, but I have not heard of anyone else having problems with any that I sold, so I can only assume they work. I'll send you some replacements if you can't fix it soon! :) Is it in any way related to the broken track on SmashTV's OPL3 PCB? http://www.midibox.org/forum/index.php/topic,10773.msg83254.html#msg83254

WTF-WTF?

[me=Wilba]laughs[/me] Seriously, I have respect for people with enough confidence and experience to ignore my build instructions. It would be a good idea to offer the same LEDs for the matrix... or at least sharing where you got them... so the finished board will have matching LEDs.

Super-Duper-Poly Mode sounds cheesy. Can you call it "Über-Poly Mode"? ("Ü" supplied by nILS, thanks!)

It all depends on the fan whether it will run on less than 12V. I've used some that could run happily on 5V. Typically the "good" ones should work at lower voltages - esp. ones intended for PCs, where they are often driven by fan controllers that vary the voltage to suit the temperature (or user's preferred noise level!). For what it's worth, the fan on the MB-6582 prototype was a bit of a show-off - there was space there to put it, and I thought it would look cool, but it's not essential. If you're not also cutting ventilation slots on the right side, near the eight banksticks and regulators, then there won't be much air flow anyway. So, you are probably better off buying some cheap, black, quiet 10mm thick fan and driving it at 5V, than some noisy, flashy 20mm thick fan and driving it at 12V. Also keep in mind that some fans will put noise into the audio! The fan I intended to use on the Mk II was like this, and I changed it to a cheap black one just to fill the hole (well yes it is functional and pushes some air around but I doubt the 6582s would overheat without it).

Super Poly mode works by setting up each synth engine to skip playing notes (i.e. ignore the Note On events). So for example if you setup SPV=4, then Core #1 will handle the 1st Note On, then ignore the 2nd, 3rd and 4th; Core #2 will ignore the 1st, handle the 2nd, then ignore the 3rd and 4th, etc. Changing patch on only one synth engine (i.e. Core) will reset the "note stack" and so that engine will be out of sync with this distribution. (This is how I think it works or used to work - TK may have changed it) It's probably best to dedicate one Ensemble for Super Poly mode only, with all engines set to the same Lead patch, and then change the patch on all engines simultaneously. If you want to do funky stuff like changing the patch on only one engine, for now, you can work around the problem you're experiencing by resetting the other engines by switching to a different patch and then back to the patch they were on - this should reset the note stack.

Thanks to everyone who replied already (about half the people on the list). The rest of you, I'm tired of waiting. If you replied before the time of this post, then you're in the first batch of 442 SIDs which will ship in December. If you reply after the time of this post, then you're in the second batch of SIDs which will ship in January. This means all people on the waiting list for spares will be upgraded to "real" orders in the second batch. Same rules will apply then too... I PM you, you reply with details, or you get dropped.

6582A SID MEGA-SALE #7 is in progress I have sent PMs to people on the list. Don't delay! Eternal happiness is just a [ few ]dollar[ s ] away! If you're on the waiting list for spares, continue to wait. If people on the pre-order list don't reply, you will get their SIDs.

Correct. You will still need to get PT-10 case, front and rear panels, diodes, M3 10mm threaded spacers, M3 screws, M2.5 screws/washers/nuts etc. Although, if you are really stuck finding the other parts (i.e. you can't buy them from a local shop like Jaycar) then I'll help out. I know where to get PT-10 cases locally (Switches Plus), but they're a bit expensive ($45 or $50 I think). Bulk ordering direct from PacTec doesn't save that much though.

No, the suggested display is a negative red LCD, as used on the last one I built (TK's one) and for which there was a bulk order some months ago.

I'm running a small-ish bulk order just for some control surface parts: http://www.midibox.org/dokuwiki/doku.php?id=wilba_mb_6582_parts_bulk_order Order deadline is undetermined, but the cutoff might be sometime in mid-December. *** This bulk order is now closed. ***

Switches Plus http://www.switchesplus.com.au/ stock the ALPS SKHHDTA010 I have been trying to arrange for an Aussie to run a bulk order for the Aussies (and the Kiwis) but no one has yet started one. I am tempted to buy a box of 2000 rotary encoders (needed for the MB-SEQ kits) and then share around the extras to the MB-6582 builders. You do not need spacers for the LEDs. RTFM! :)

A new batch of 400pcs SSM2044 ICs have arrived (for the non-US orders). PayPal invoices have been sent to the people who confirmed their SSM IC order. If you have not confirmed your order (did not receive email or PM) then contact me.

The "Device ID" control. This directs the upload to the right PIC (since all PICs receive the same MIDI In). J11 only directs the serial output of the right PIC to the MIDI Out.

Yay! People can BUY ME A BEER now! I like the logo, but the "by Thorsten Klose" sounds like the name of a perfume, i.e. "Obsession by Calvin Klein". :)

I was playing some SID files that nILS sent me, using ASID XP and my MB-6582 when the MB-6582 stopped playing SID files (it happens a lot). So I reboot the MB-6582 and it started acting weird, some LEDs that shouldn't be on were lit at less than full brightness, and some button presses would jump to completely different menu pages. nILS' SID files had some kind of C64 opcode virus that infected my master PIC, so I reburned it with the bootloader and uploaded MIOS and MB-SID app again but the problems are still there... maybe the virus has moved now and is jumping around the PCB... do I have to now desolder all the components and solder new ones? How do I get rid of this nasty virus now? WTF IS WRONG WITH YOU NILS!!!!!!!!!!!! How could you send me SID files with a virus and fry my MB-6582 just before I run 6582A SID MEGA-SALE #7???????????? ARGHGHGHG GRRRRRR >:( >:( >:( >:( >:( >:( >:( >:( >:(

Do some voltage tests directly on the pins of V1... i.e. put black lead on middle pin, red lead on pin 1 and pin 3. (btw pin 1 is the input pin which is on the right). Between pin 1 and 2, you should measure the same as the output of the bridge rectifier, and same as across C1 and C2 (i.e. from what you said earlier, this is 13V DC). Between pin 3 and 2, you should measure 9V. Measure by touching the pins directly, not on other pads. Try to find out if V1 is properly connected to the tracks. Test continuity between V1 pins and pins on the same tracks. NOTE: V1 pin 2 WILL NOT BE connected to "ground" unless you are using PSU Option A and bridge pins 2 and 3 of J73. To measure if V1 is working BEFORE you connect a bridge at J73, measure directly against pin 2 of V1 as it will only be connected to the "-" pin of the bridge and pins of C1, C2, C11, C12, NOT to ground.

Sorry for the confusion, I meant the 1st SSM2044 bulk order... I've already done a "trial" bulk order for just the Aussies (100pcs) and now I'm doing the real bulk order for the non-Americans, and Doug will be selling his spares of SSM2044 to his fellow Americans.