Wilba

Will my 1986 vintage MOS6582 be enough collateral? Goes well with fish, chicken, or baked sauerkraut and debreziner. ;)

The fact that the MB-6582 is working with a keyboard means there's nothing wrong with the MB-6582... You'll need to prove your MIDI interface is working on your PC, like perhaps try MIOS Studio, try uploading the latest firmware, etc. It could be something like another application has locked (or is interfering with) the MIDI interface and all the other sequencer applications cannot output anything.... or maybe the driver for your MIDI interface is broken. Or you could just have MIDI In and MIDI Out cables accidentally swapped ;D

SIDs have only one ground (Vss pin) and two supplies (Vdd and Vcc pins). I connected the SID's ground pin to an "audio ground" instead of the "digital ground". One experiment I did with my MB-SID (before MB-6582) which used custom SID modules was to connect the SID's Vss pin to the audio ground instead of the digital ground. I had two ground wires going to each SID module, the audio ground was used for the buffer section (the BC547 etc.), the digital ground was used just for the 74HC595. Originally the SID's Vss pin was connected to the digital ground and I broke the track and reconnected it to the analog ground. This appeared to reduce some noise, so I did the same thing with the MB-6582 PCB. If you're building your MB-SID using modules or veroboard, it makes sense to do a similar thing, connect the SID's ground to the buffer section and the 5V/ground wires for the SIDs and buffer section should be separate to the 5V/ground wires for the rest of the modules (Core, DIN, DOUT etc.). The ground wires can connect up at some common point (like where you supply ground to the whole setup, near a voltage regulator pin). However, it's not really required; you can build a low-noise SID synth without doing all this extra work.

Thanks for the offers... I have such a backlog of stuff to do that I don't think I'll be needing them before a second bulk order.

I'm too slow to get my 10 in the first 250. :( I might have to steal stryd_one's 10. ;D

Absolutely fantastic! Awesome! I love it! Now that is DIY at it's best. I am honoured by your use of MB-6582 as inspiration, and admire this work immensely. Congratulations! I hope you have as much fun as I do making noise with eight SIDs!

I often see people posting in the ridiculously long MB-6582 base PCB parts kit thread that they want parts kits, when they do not have a PCB yet. Also, people are asking SmashTV and myself about when MB-6582 PCBs and/or base PCB parts kits will be ready, often accompanied by subtle complaints about how they've waited months already. Here's the status of the situation: SmashTV is working flat out making, packing and shipping "base PCB parts kits", the kit of parts that go on the base PCB. Meanwhile, he is also arranging the fabrication of a new batch of MB-6582 base and control surface PCBs. So, here's a handy guide about buying the things you need to build an MB-6582: Scenario 1: I have PCBs from Wilba's PCB bulk order and need a "base PCB parts kit". If you have already posted a "Count me in for a kit!" in the parts kit thread, then SmashTV will contact you via PM when it's your turn to buy a kit. If you have not posted in that thread, and are one of the rare few who have PCBs from Wilba's bulk order and didn't post a "Count me in for a kit!" in the parts kit thread, then just send me a PM or email. Basically, you put your name on the list and then wait. SmashTV and I do not have time answering requests from impatient people, this only takes time away from doing real work. You have the PCBs already, so you are lucky. Plenty of other people have built their MB-6582 base PCB without SmashTV's parts kits. If you are tired of waiting, go and buy the parts elsewhere, like many others did. The only things you might have some trouble with are the stereo sockets, the power socket and power switch, and I can sell you the power socket and power switch. SmashTV's base PCB parts kits are a convenient and cheaper option than finding and buying the parts from multiple places but he is not selling anything you can't buy elsewhere, he's buying them in bulk from somewhere and reselling to you at a very affordable price. If making it sooner is more important than making it cheaper then go and buy parts now from wherever you can find them, pay more and build it sooner. I say again, SmashTV's base PCB parts kits are just the cheaper, convenient option, you already have the critical piece of the puzzle (the PCBs). Scenario 2: I have panels from Altitude's panels bulk order, assuming that the PCBs would be available soon after, and I'm still waiting for months for PCBs. At the time of Altitude's panel bulk order, I did tell people that it was a good price for panels and people waiting for PCBs could go ahead and buy panels knowing that the PCBs would match. Obviously, the next run of PCBs has taken much longer than expected, but that doesn't change the fact that you have panels at a bargain price, that go with PCBs that are now in production. You are in a better position than someone who has no PCBs and no panels, so please wait like everyone else. If you feel you've waited too long then sell your panels to someone with more patience than you, I'm sure you can get your money back. Scenario 3: I have spent heaps of money on parts (6582 SIDs/knobs/encoders/case/panels) to build an MB-6582, assuming that the PCBs would be available soon, and I'm still waiting for months for PCBs (and a base PCB parts kit) It sucks to have to wait so long for the PCBs, which are the things you can't buy elsewhere. Some of you have waited since September 2007. There was a combination of things that caused the delays, the details of which are irrelevant, because when all things are considered, it could not have happened any sooner without adding delays for people who already have PCBs, and quite frankly, if you were around last May through August and got PCBs from Wilba's PCB bulk order, then getting a SmashTV base parts kit in your hands had higher priority than creating even more PCBs for people and even more demand for base parts kits. Unless you have every single other item you need (unlikely), then it really doesn't matter that you're still waiting for PCBs, because you couldn't finish it before now anyway. Go and buy more parts while you wait. Or go build something else while you wait. Scenario 4: I have recently discovered the MB-6582 project and have no parts for it at all. Where do I start? You can get in on bulk orders for parts now and wait for the PCBs and base PCB parts kits. You're in a good position, because you will wait far less time than some other people, who unfortunately just missed out on the PCB bulk order and have waited since then for the PCBs, and a new bulk order for panels is being arranged also, and by the time PCBs become available, you could probably get PCBs shipped with a base PCB parts kit, and wait less time for those kits than other people have waited already. SmashTV works damn hard and very long hours putting together all the MIDIbox kits, not just MB-6582 base PCB kits. He's doing everything he can to deliver any of his kits to you as soon as possible, it's just that there are lots of people wanting for base PCB parts kits. Similarly, the fabrication of new MB-6582 PCBs is taking as long as it takes to get it right. He does all this using his own cash to buy parts and PCBs before selling them to you cheaper than you could buy them anywhere else. People know all this, and yet still feel like they need an individual response to their question "I've waited months, when can I buy X?", as if waiting longer than someone else entitles them to some special treatment, or as if knowing exactly when something will be available makes any difference. You probably expected to have PCBs and/or parts kits before now, and so did SmashTV and I. However, when people start complaining in messages about waiting months and needing to finish it soon, I have no more sympathy for them. You could have taken the schematics and parts lists and done it all yourself, done it exactly the way you wanted, and not be locked in to the timing of MB-6582 PCBs and parts availability. MIDIbox is all about DIY - Do It Yourself. It doesn't mean it's going to be cheaper, easier or quicker. People generally build a MIDIbox SID synth not because it's going to be cheaper, easier or quicker than buying something off the shelf. They build it because it's going to be the best SID synth ever. If you want a SID synth cheaper, easier and quicker, then go buy a SidStation, HardSID, Prophet64 or a VST emulator. Likewise, MB-6582 is not about making it so easy to build that you don't have to think. It's just a little more convenient than building the same thing with SmashTV's Core and SID modules, designing and constructing a control surface, finding a case to fit it all in, etc. It still requires a commitment to DIY, electronics, learning how it works, etc. I do not want people who know nothing about electronics and soldering to expect MB-6582 to be something they can just put together like a Lego kit. You will still need some experience with basic electronics and soldering. Building an MB-6582 is like a scavenger hunt followed by a jigsaw puzzle, and if you finish one, you will earn my utmost respect because you didn't design it and know how it goes together like I do, so you solved your own puzzle and worked it out. If you are still waiting for MB-6582 PCBs or parts, your patience will be rewarded with the best SID synth ever and possibly the best DIY synth ever, evolved collaboratively by a dedicated community of SID and synth lovers.

100mil (0.1") spacing ribbon is thicker than the 50mil (0.05") spacing kind, the wire is multi-strand and pre-tinned, but if you nick it a little then when you bend it, it breaks at that point. However, because the wire and the insulation is much thicker, you don't need wire cutters, and can cut the insulation with a knife and pull off the insulation from each wire.

Sometimes I tidy up the workspace on special occasions... ;D

It's not impossible. I've just finished testing/selling 500 SIDs, and tested/sold 1500 SIDs before that. You must test them first, because a lot of 6581 SIDs have filters and/or oscillators that do not work. It is not fair to sell chips that might have a 50% failure rate, as was recently discovered with another 6581 sale. Maybe they are all good, maybe not. You will not know until you test them, and you cannot expect people not to complain if they pay for broken SIDs. I even have a testing rig I can send to you, with a ZIF socket attached to an IC socket that can plug into your MB-SID. I don't use it anymore, since I built the QuadZIF. I'll send you it for free, if you promise to test every SID you sell, and make sure everyone is getting a fully working SID. I want a few myself! I'd like to know what all the fuss is about... (I sell and use only 6582 SIDs).

All chipsets are SOLD. This bulk order is CLOSED.

Well done! I haven't visited this thread in a while, so for completeness, let me just briefly revisit the 4-bit vs. 8-bit driver issue. My PLED didn't like having D4-D8 grounded in 4-bit mode, they needed to be open... and some other LCDs I had also needed this. Do what works. On the MB-6582 PCB, they are open on J15, so using a "MIDIbox standard" 8-bit ribbon cable between LCD and J15 will therefore leave D4-D8 open. You can ground those pins on the bottom side of J15 if you need to, leaving the cable "standard". If you have trouble with 4-bit mode, enabling the 8-bit mode in the MB-SID V2 firmware does not require recompiling MB-SID V2, all pre-built firmware versions will have the 8-bit LCD driver inside, you only need to change the PIC ID and change the LCD type to "custom". This can be done by burning the bootloader again, or running the change_id application. If anyone has trouble with using change_id, they can always post to the forum and people can check they're doing it correctly, I can even personally build you the .hex files you need, instead of wasting time on a walkthrough that might never be used. Now that the boring bit is over... Well done again!

Great work!

I'm not shy. People have seen my desk when it's tidy and covered with SIDs, or showing off the MB-6582 hehehe Here's what it looks like today. (Note the new 22" monitor *drool*)

hehehe sorry, I'm packing them now, and will email out the invoices tonight.

Mmmmm.... PanaVise... *drool*

:o I can't believe you actually donated! The "Donate" button was just a joke! ;D I'll pass on your donation to TK (via the "PayPal Development" button in the top-right corner of the page)... and add some more from me, as I haven't paid anything this year ;)

It depends on who is making the panel. If it is Front Panel Express or Schaeffer, you can't make a perfectly square hole, since it is routed with a minimum 1mm diameter "cutter" bit, so the square hole will have rounded corners of a minimum of 0.5mm radius. So I think it would be a good idea to make the hole 10.5mm x 10.5mm so there would be a 0.5mm gap around the cap, and the corners of the cap would then be in the centre of the rounded corner. If you make it any less than 0.5mm then it might have enough clearance on the edges but not the corners. This is only a suggestion, I have not yet ordered square holes from FPE to fit a switch cap to give first hand experience, but I do know their 3mm and 3.5mm round holes are so close to exactly 3mm and 3.5mm that I can't measure a difference with my el cheapo digital calipers.

It happens a lot... ;D

There is a switch symbol in the picture labelled "Terminal Arrangement/Internal Connections (Top View)" quote from: http://www.kpsec.freeuk.com/symbol.htm this also shows pins 1 and 2 are connected, pins 3 and 4 are connected. So the switch is electrically connected between either pins 1 or 2 ... AND ... either pins 3 or 4. You then wire this switch up the same way as the push button switch symbol: you would see here: http://www.ucapps.de/mbhp/mbhp_dinx4_32buttons.pdf Thus connect pins 1 or 2 to ground, pins 3 or 4 to the DIN input.

Sorry about that, I have to declare a reasonable amount (like half the value) when I use postal insurance for the big orders (10+ SIDs).

Ensembles are stored in a bankstick with address 7, therefore do not expect more than one Ensemble to be stored or retrieved. I don't know exactly the handling when there is no bankstick with address 7, perhaps changing the Ensemble number does nothing and the Ensemble stays the same. However, MB-SID V2 should work without a bankstick for ensembles. Some questions to find out what might be wrong: You are definitely using a PIC18F4685? You are definitely using a 24LC512 with address 0 (A0,A1,A2 pins connected to ground)? Can you tell us what program and hardware you used to burn the PIC? My guess would be you might have a corrupted upload and the data where the single Ensemble is stored (in the PIC's flash memory) is all "FF", hence the maximum values in the ensemble. It might be too corrupted to save to the PIC's flash memory. I don't really know, that is just a guess. Weird stuff happens when you have a corrupted firmware, and it's not unreasonable to think the weirdness you describe is because the firmware is corrupt.

Good to see the 6582 SIDs in a spacious home ;D

That's why I have to put ;D in nearly every post. *whack*