moebius

What about setting volume register zero, before updating any other parameters? Could this solve the problem? (maybe just stupid), Samppa

With THAT price tag, it must be a HOAX ;) I would rather go for the Good ol' SynthAxe.. But where's the "MB-Axe": Just modify guitar pickup with pot cored coil for each string, Lowpass filter each strings output for easier detection of the fundamental frequency, full wave rectify it for velocity, and a BIT of programming effort.. ;) Ok, I'm kidding, but not saying it couldn't be done! Buy, Samppa //edit: typo

There seems to be converters for that, but with 'some' issues.. ;) so maybe:"No further discussion, before somebody has actually DONE it." Bye, Samppa

Crosstown Traffic

<whine> I have used (or tried to use) at least PADS (for dos), PowerPADS, (far more powerful ;)) Protel99, OrCAD 9.*, Eagle, and have always been disappointed. I just hate learning curves of these PCB designing softwares: Yeah, right, I'm not an engineer (and hopefully never will ;)), but each time I have to learn a new type of engineering practises, which of course vary from software to software. I think there are examples from different kinds of a software, where 'so called' difficult things are made easy from the end users viewpoint and I think this is one aim of the computer technology. Great (easy) user interface doesn't have to mean loss of power or functionality. </whine> So, once I tried Target 3001, I fell in love ;). IDE (from schematic to pcb and back, by clicking one icon), comprehensive component libraries, and easy adding of your own, (at least providing footprint is existing). No big tutorials to read, for even to begin. The drawback here is that Target is a commercial software: You can download 100 pins/pads "discover" version from: http://www.ibfriedrich.com/english/engl_vordownload.htm'>http://www.ibfriedrich.com/english/engl_vordownload.htm But students can get their licence pretty cheap for unlimited pins/pads (professional) version. Check the site: http://www.ibfriedrich.com BUT, for those who will only use it for their own private projects, there is PCB-POOL edition: It's "FULL version", crippled so, that you can't export your design, and can't print it in scales of 90-110%. If you can do with printed designs: Print it in scale of 200% to pdf printer (CutePDF) scaled to 50%, that will do! ;) http://www.pcb-pool.com/ppuk/service_downloads_target_request.html Ok, That's it, try it and give some feedback ;) Samppa

Eagle 4.11 is downloadable from CadSoft, just check out download area: http://www.cadsoft.de/freeware.htm Well, I tried to export (with CAM processors "layout" job) design to EPS, but didn't get bottom layer to show anything at all ;) also vias don't show as they should. Check this topic: http://www.midibox.org/cgi-bin/yabb/YaBB.cgi?board=concepts;action=display;num=1068767866 Maybe arumblack could help you and email his correct pdf versions for you (as they are not yet on midibox portal) Bye, Samppa //edit: More info

I think I know what You are after: Pitch shifting loops (or delays) with midi notes, Eh? (Went to your pages, and browser nearly stopped working, scale down those pictures, will Ya?) I think timer with prescaler and table of diviners (for note frequencies) could be done pretty easily: check http://chip.aeug.org/oct54all.asm for reference. There are many examples for handling midi input on pics. http://www.audiomulch.com/midipic/ is a good place to start. Also, remember to respect copyrights (-lefts) if you're planning to release midi enabled Deluxe Moneycolooper for $750 ;) Of course, you could also release your project plans and designs for the grateful DIY community ;D Bye, Samppa

I have 'bout similar question: Our local Electronics shop has this pretty small joystick (3x3cm), with 10k pots, but it has "self centering axel" (I don't really know how it should be described). (You can find picture of it from lower part of this pdf: http://www.spelektroniikka.fi/kuvat/2.pdf) I want to remove those springs or whatever, so it would stay where set.. have anyone done this kind of modification for some joystick before?! bye, Samppa

Hi. It seems to be a typo in designs page.. download.php versus downloads.php.. (strange, since I thought that any reused elements on php pages should "naturally" be parsed from one source ;) t. Samppa

Well, maybe Steinberg should release their Nuendo IRIX source code ;) Bye, Samppa

Fans

Ok, maybe that was a bit rude. (like, infernal tools for infernal music ;) Sorry, Samppa //edit, searching for links.. Ok: http://www.tonmeister.ca/main/ http://www.bownie.com/ http://www.homerecording.com/newbies.html http://www.soundonsound.com/ //edit those were my bookmarks.

Do you trust anyone using FruityLoops for any tips?! Â ??? t. Samppa

No, Flux spray should be used before soldering.. It's the stuff that makes your solder _FLOW_ and gives you beatiful solder joints. AND it as Smash said (and I have seen some posts somewhere from synth-DIY people, saying that some circuits, propably VCO designs, didn't work at all, before flux was removed!) propably has some conductive properties, so it should be removed from board after soldering. But there are some kind of protective laquer products to be aplied before soldering, which protect the board from oxidation AND ease your soldering. Here in Finland a company called Bebek has this Cramolin Solderlac125.. haven't tried it anyway.. Bye, samppa //edit: more comments :) Well, propably that pencil eraser thing is ok. But I think not that typical red rubber one, but the blue.. maybe even fine wirewool could be used? I'm not sure at all, as it's so easy to break those fine copper traces??!

Hi, Well, I think that most of us do like LONG INFORMATIVE posts, like yours Smash ;) There are these protective/ (and) solder thru laquers on the market. Any comments on those? I can really recommend spray flux, as it makes soldering so much easier.. A hit for those who think they are lousy at soldering. And I think it can be washed away with tap water. bye Samppa

Just hearing my piace of my janis

Sorry, But anyway.. please TK,

So - I hope that I'm not getting this wrong.. but someone should try to "sniff" or try to get some specs about "this universal" protocol.. ok.. ok.. ok.. Bye, samppa

Ok, thanx Smash ;) Well, I haven't build midibox(es) yet, but when I do it's good to know that your board design is "optimised" for home etching.. I hope that our local (finnish) supplier has needed components with right lead spacing. Bye Samppa

Well, Few days ago I thought of that the other way around: What about MBHP-IR receiver? To be used with some "universal remote" controller, controlling some midibox functions. Maybe something like MMC play, stop, ect. It could be great help for those who work alone in project studios, and for recording "traditional" instruments with audio sequencer. Just set up your sequencer to record, and for example: walk to your piano, take your time at preparing and when you're ready, push button on remote and the sequencer counts you in.. from distance away from your computer or your midibox ;) Bye, Samppa

Sounds nice ;D So, we are going to see velocity sensitive keyboard scanning code, but is this going to be MIDIO128 specific? Something like MB64 with 2 octave keyboard could be great DIY replacement for numerios different small controller keyboards out there... I also thought about "drum programming MB" - with rubber pads (and piezo) like Akai MPC-series. A lots nicer method than keyboard and no need for special motoric skills like on electric drum pads.. Maybe Admir Salahovics eDrum code could be backported to MIOS form?! Samppa

Ok, I once tried to stuff one of those circuits with buffer IC in to DB15 shell (point to point wiring) and gave up ;) Maybe I should have another attempt.. maybe eith that using transistors as buffer. I don't know about those caps.. BUT It's simply microcontrollers external resonator clock, so If got it running with 22pF I don't see any reason to change those ;) t. Samppa

Hi. That soundcard (Joystick)/midi port needs a special adapter cable or "soundblaster midi cable" for Google ;) Like: http://www.cryogenius.com/hardware/sbmidi/ or http://www.midwest-analog.com/diysb16.html And as you can see it's not that special at all.. ;) Nice practice for midibo.. other DIY projects. t. Samppa

Hi! I think you are meaning the button (or switch) type. Those are normally referred as momentary (mom) type. And buttons should be normally open and closed when pushed (OFF-ON). You can of course use ON-ON type buttons, but then you have to check the wiring so pressing it will close the contact. Samppa

A Bit off-topic, but anyway: For those who like to have their documents printed (or "printed" ;) in (more or less) portable WYSIWYG way I can recommend using (a suitable, as options vary from printer to printer: B/W or color, different max. DPI and paper sizes) postscript printer driver. You can choose print to file and from the postscript options EPS as a output format. And maybe even more generic way is to use something like CutePDF (free from http://www.acrosoftware.com) to print to PDF. It can handle even multipage prints ;) Samppa