seppoman

No of course not - I can order any number of PCBs :) S

Hi Filter-People :) first thanks for the overwhelming interest in this PCB! I would never have thought that the numbers go through the roof so quickly. As there are already quite a lot people on the list and new entries become fewer, I thought why let everybody (including me ;)) wait too long, so I've changed the deadline/last orders date from August, 10th to August, 3rd. I hope that's fine with everyone. Probably there'll be a few people missing out on the bulk order, but that will happen anyway regardless of the deadline date. I will probably order a few spares, and according to Wilba's experience a few people will probably change their minds after the deadline has passed (though I'd much prefer everyone to make up their minds before!), so even some late-comers will still get a chance to participate. Another announcement - I thought of doing the PCBs with red parts print on matte black solder mask (background) to make them also visually special - hope you like that idea :) And lastly, I'll be mostly(completely?) offline until this friday, so if you send me a PM with any questions, please be patient :) S

No, from Texas Instruments ;D S

Ok convinced ;D I'd like to have 50 Quiet buttons (without caps) Thanks :) S

yes that's right. Just the bypass function can only be switched for the whole (stereo) filter pair, not single channels. And if you wanna use AOUT_LCs, you'll need two of them per PCB because their two CV channels can only can only control one filter channel (cutoff, res). The MBSID software has everything you need integrated. Just activate the AOUT_INTERFACE_TYPE and (if using the bypass relay) set DEFAULT_J5_FUNCTION 3 (in the setup...asm, then recompile). Usually you will want to use the F2A function (found in the EXT menu of the Ensemble). This routes everything you do with the SID filter(s) to AOUT channels 1-4. Connect the Bypass input of the SSM module to one of the J5 gate outs. This way you can set the filter active/bypass by checking/unchecking the respective option of the patch's EXT page (S#1..S#8 depending where the bypass is connected). The bypass state will also be stored within your patch, so when playing stored patches you can have patches using the ssm or the SID filter or both, without changing any wiring or patchbay or other kind of action. Cutoff/resonance are controlled just like the normal filter, i.e. if you turn the cutoff/res encoders or, for example, if you set your modulation matrix to modulate cutoff from an LFO or envelope, this will affect both internal and external filter the same way. So the usage in all standard applications is transparent. S

Especially important is the new Groovyness control input which you can control in a wide range of 720 degrees Fahrenheit ;D No seriously, what else besides cutoff and resonance would you expect being controlable on a Low pass VCF? And what other inputs do you see on the picture? Please read the Wiki page again (did you read it already?) - http://www.midibox.org/dokuwiki/ssm2044_pcb - everything you need to know is there. S

Well to get something similar to a Sherman bank, you'd need to add some more analog cirquitry. The Sherman e.g. has an analog envelope trigger ("auto-wah") which is a thing you can only simulate when processing Midi synths by using the Midi signal to trigger an envelope. But you can't have the audio itself trigger the envelope i.e. can't use such a function for any given audio signal. Otherwise I don't know too much about the Sherman, just know that you won't get anything functionally identical with this module and only standard Midibox stuff. I'm not saying that building a really cool filter bank starting with this module isn't possible (it definitely is), but the design wasn't intended for that purpose in the first place. I only had easy usage and interfacing in conjunction with Midibox synths in mind when designing it. So please don't expect me to do any tutorials or in-depth design guide on how build such a filterbank. Maybe there are others having the same idea with whom you can join forces :) S

Yes to all questions ;) S

No, completely impossible ;D http://www.midibox.org/dokuwiki/ssm2044_pcb http://www.midibox.org/forum/index.php/topic,10765.0.html http://www.midibox.org/forum/index.php/topic,11460.0.html http://www.midibox.org/forum/index.php/topic,5538.0.html http://www.midibox.org/forum/index.php/topic,5633.0.html http://www.midibox.org/forum/index.php/topic,9516.0.html S

Aahhh, I'm blind now :D Serious Seventies design, I love it :) S

sure, it has audio input and output, so you're free to connect these to some jacks :) You need some kind of CV source for it. In the Midibox world that would typically be one of the AOUT modules, which in turn is connected to a core running either the MBCV app or (more powerful and flexible) running the MBSID V2 app (this is possible without actually having a SID module). S

e.g. the first two irons on that MPJA link have that - on the junction between the grip and the metal shaft. S

yeah the third one on that link looks quite nice, also the Ayoue and Hakko ones are supposed to be good. Beware of all these irons where you can see a metal plate screwed to the upper part. These will typically break if you e.g. use a bit of force while desoldering etc. Also, don't spend any extra money for digital displays, they only start to make a little bit of sense if you've got a very expensive station and are soldering extremely fragile stuff. For all the cheap stations, this is just a show-off gimmick. If you're really serious about soldering, I'll recommend the station I'm using now - the Weller WS81. In contrast to most cheap stations it has real heat regulation, i.e. a temperature sensor. The iron has a very powerful heater while at the same time being very compact, light and handy. It heats up to temperature in only about 8 seconds, you can hot-swap the tips, the cable is very flexible and soft. So in one word, it's perfect. I know the price tag is a bit shocking for us hobbyists, but I've spent about 150 Euros for a new one on eBay and I've never regretted it. I won't say you can't do a good solder job with a cheaper iron, but if soldering is fun to you, a really good iron will make everything even easier, better and more enjoyable. S

I'd be interested ;D

you can do that yourself - just go to the wiki page and edit it. and btw, from EU countries you can also use bank transfer to pay. As far as I know, EU legislation says that transactions in Euro currency mustn't cost more than normal domestic transactions (don't have experience with that issue, maybe someone can enlighten us? :)) S

yes, higher rating is always ok - but a 50A version would be huge. Rectifiers are very common parts, you should easily find compact parts with e.g. 40 or 80V, 1A, 1.5A etc. so no need to pull out the really big tools :) S

what diodes do you mean? The rectifier (X1 in the optimized diagram) will still be necessary. But it's no problem to leave the LED out (and of course, the corresponding 220 Ohm resistor). exactly. having only one ground connection prevents ground loops (hum). You need a dual power switch that opens/closes two cirquits at once. S

Hi all, **the original bulk order is closed - if you're interested in participating in a future bulk order, you can enter your name on the bulk order page** Seppoman proudly presents: The bulk order page for my new Dual SSM2044 PCB: http://www.midibox.org/dokuwiki/ssm2044_pcb_bulk_order Each PCB can make use of two SSM2044 Filter ICs (24db LP) and is perfectly suited to e.g. expand a MBSID V2. More information and sound demos can be found here and here. Before you sign on to this bulk order, a warning: This is not a suitable project for absolute beginners. The soldering isn't very difficult, but you will need either an AOUT_NG (SMT soldering required), AOUT_LC or an AOUT module (which needs to be expanded with the bipolar option), or another type of CV source to control this module, in addition to the actual synth (SID/FM) you want to use it with. So a bit of soldering experience and knowledge about the MidiBox platform is definitely recommended. Seppoman ssm_small.GIF

No, because he is below the 500 mark, so he is on the waiting list right now. I guess the below-500-people will be asked in order of their list entry if they want some of the remaining as soon as the normal deadline has passed. S

good that you've narrowed down the problem :) the schematic you've posted is the same basic principle as the first one on this page: http://www.midibox.org/dokuwiki/bipolar_12v_psu But I'd prefer the version from the Wiki - the differences in your schematic all don't make much sense. Two 4700uF caps is overkill for the normal applications with only a few hundred mA. 1uF caps are not typical (these are for preventing the 78xx from oscillating, 100nF..330nF ceramic caps are normal there). I also don't see a reason for using a Tantal cap. So to make it short, just build the PSU from the Wiki page (first version is best), using e.g. 1000uF electrolytic caps for "C". This is a proven and reliable cirquit, and as long as you make sure there are no wiring errors, there's hardly any chance it wouldn't work. (BTW I find it quite strange that so many people are discussing bipolar PSU designs on the forum, searching for schematics and alternatives, as this cirquit is present on uCApps for some years, is as simple as it can get and works perfectly well. So no need to reinvent the wheel, guys ;)) S

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xxrrtCub8Kk :D

read the first posting in this thread, all information you need is there. S

Encoders don't have a value in the normal sense. They can be detented (click...) or not detented (smooth...) and usually have 16/20/24 clicks per revolution. which type you prefer is a matter of taste. I prefer the non-detented versions, e.g. the Alps STEC16B03. With some detented types, the detents can be removed (Smash's encoders are detented and not really suitable for that modification). S

actually I didn't mention desoldering wick ;D - the wick method is a bit dangerous because if the wick gets stuck and you try to remove it again while it isn't heated enough, you can tear off IC legs or even solder pads. The method I'm using is the so called "drag soldering". here's a youtube link: this guy is cheating a bit because he's only resoldering an already soldered IC. but you can see the type of tip I'm using. the concave fillet in the tip takes up a bit of solder. After the IC is fixated by two solder joints, you apply a bit of flux everywhere, take up only a little bit of solder and then drag the tip along the IC until the solder is gone, then take a bit more solder etc. If you've applied too much solder somewhere, you can even use this tip instead of using desoldering wick. Just wipe the tip very clean at the sponge and make sure the fillet is "empty", apply a bit of flux and drag the iron again. the fillet will suck up the extra solder, leaving behind a clean joint. BTW, the tip for my Weller WS81 is called LT-GW. With some practice, it's also possible to use this technique with a normal flat tip, like shown by this guy: http://youtube.com/watch?v=wQXhny3R7lk (you can skip the first minute... ;)) but the special drag tip really makes things easier. here's an example pic soldered by me: Happy soldering :) S

Are you talking about the MkII or about TK's back side? :P S