Davo

Some more questions: 1) Jimp tells me that the tiny jumper pads on the solder side beneath the cores have something to do with 8-bit mode for LCDs. How are these supposed to be set? 2) Is there any reason why 16-volt 2200uF caps cannot be used instead of 25-volt ones?

Will these fixes appear in the next batch of boards if/when that happens? I don't think there would be a problem to bridge pins 4 and 5 if you don't need it. It should be okay to put that fix in the PCB design files.

These questions are directed at Wilba, but I presume others are asking them too: There are some things about the base PCB that aren't addressed in the construction guide (yet). 1) What is the function of J11 (directly below U1_Core1)? 2) What is the function of P1 (extreme lower right corner)? 3) How are the attentuating pots pictured on the rear of the chassis connected? 4) What sorts of heatsinks should be fitted for V3 and V1 (I am using Option B). Their positions seem to prevent both from having a sink at the same time. Should I look for flatter heatsinks? 5) If I'm using the Pactek chassis do the extra headers on the cores really need to be populated? 6) Likewise, do I really need to mount pot P2 for the slave cores?

Another paint you might want to try is black polyseal rubber spraypaint. Some others here have used it with great results.

I did so as well.

If I'm reading this post and TK's licensing on Midibox, it's not permitted to sell Midibox equipment for a profit. This started me wondering about liquidating Midibox equipment. Suppose for whatever reason I decide to liquidate my equipment. Shouldn't it be acceptable to sell the equipment for whatever price I can get for it? I don't see how this would cause offense since the equipment was acquired to use, not to sell? Now suppose I die and someone buys out my collection and sells off equipment not wanted. It doesn't seem reasonable to restrict that buyer from reselling Midibox equipment. So, in conclusion, it seems that manufacturing AND selling multiple units is bad. It's okay to sell personal-use equipment. With books, the rights of the publisher/manufacturer to affect resale end at the first sale. In these two scenarios, the first sale (such as it is) has already passed. Am I right? If not, where am I wrong?

Rit dye is good on nylon. I'm not sure how it would do with polystyrene or ABS. That might be worth a little experimentation.

Does anyone know what's going on with JSynthLib? As in, is anyone working on it? Is anyone interested in picking it up? I'm having a couple problems with the patched version offered by TK. 1) I start a new library and select "Get" to pull settings from a synth. Right now, all I have is a Yamaha TX802 to do things like this with. I can cause the synth to do a sysex dump of whatever I like, but when I hit the "Paste" button to put that stuff in the library I just created, nothing happens. Nor does anything happen when I press "Done". 2) Compiling the latest CVS barfs on one of the Roland drivers with a litany of complains of symbols it couldn't find. >:( >:( >:(

I should have said something when I got mine last week. Thanks!

Another thing about layers -- The reason for four layers is almost always to have power and ground appear on their own layers. Then wherever they're needed, a via is poked through. This makes routing much easier with more complex boards. Those two extra layers are entirely copper except where vias go through that aren't supposed to be connected to it. Layers more than that are usually used to cut down on vias when things get even denser (like modern computer motherboards).

How about redirects? There are an awful lot of things like "foo" and "foo installation" such that "foo installation" is only a few lines long and really should be a part of "foo". This would call for redirects, or at least delete requests.

Mouser has them for $21.21. I don't think much more will be saved by doing a group buy.

Some time ago, someone here made the rounds with a couch as a midi device. Here's a video of someone using midi to control the output of a tesla coil: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qGwkmwhPdUQ. Of course, here are the schematics and other info: http://members.thegeekgroup.org/~capper/midisch.html.

Either I can't find where these are, or the wiki is missing these features entirely. I'm trying to figure out how to do a redirect. With Wikipedia, you can make an article redirect to something else with a #REDIRECT[[target_article]] tag. How do I do this with dokuwiki?

Sometime after this project is done, I'd like to get a group buy going for some MBFM front panels. I have almost everything done for that except the chassis. With prices like that... Whee!!!

I'll experiment with light pipes.

Jack is installed. I can't figure out what else is needed besides. I have a MOTU Fastlane. When it's plugged in, /dev/midi1 appears. Doing "cat /dev/midi1" should produce a bursts of characters when keys on the midi board are struck, but nothing appears. Mashing keys only results in the MOTU flashing a light: expected, but not what I'm ultimately after. If I start Rosegarden, it recognizes that a MOTU Fastlane is connected. It doesn't get anything from the board either.

Does anyone here use Linux? I'm trying to figure out how to get a midi keyboard to talk to my Linux machine (specifically Ubuntu 7.04). All the howtos on midi and linux either completely ignore hardware or skip past that, assuming it always works.

FPE has been tried before and is known to work. I'd rather have panels from there than something untried.

Yummy! Red soldermask is a nice touch. When I did my run of P112 kits, I asked the post office to lend me some letter crates. You've probably seen them behind the counter.

Yes, that's the guy. I doublechecked with archive.org.

Er... Oops.

No. The one I'm thinking of has an engraving and milling machine with which he makes engraved panels exactly like Front Panel Express.

There's someone in the UK who can take Front Panel Express files and turn out front panels for about a quarter to half of what FPE charges. He mainly does synthesizer stuff and had a stock of Oakley panels. Does anyone remember who this is? I lost the URL and can't seem to track him down with Google.

I like it. My only concern is over durability of the silk-screening. The stock front panel of my Paia Fatman was so bad that I could chip paint simply by reaching for a knob and having my fingernail hit the panel. Have you considered reverse-engraving on perspex/plexiglas? Look at http://www.timefracture.org/D16pics/d16front2.jpg for an example of such a front panel. See also http://www.timefracture.org/D16docs/D16_Design_Notes.html.