Davo

Just now I created a new schematic symbol for the POKEY and am trying to come up with a board design. See my other symbols and such at http://www.gedasymbols.org/user/david_griffith/

With machined-pin sockets, you have a bit of access to the topside of the pin, so you can do double-sided boards without too much trouble.

It looks like this design already allows for this, but it would be nice to explicitly make sure 90-degree headers can be used.

Give him a break! I've done the same sort of thing. Testing and packing stuff takes a long time. My sympathies are with you, Wilba. Thanks! :)

When ordering parts for an AOUT v1, I accidentally ordered surface-mount opamps. ::) So I have a pair of SOIC-packaged TL074 opamps that I won't use any time soon. I'll send these out free to anyone (in US or not) who wants them since they weigh no more than a sheet of paper. They're taken. Thanks!

Just thought I'd show off my mb6582 in progress. I still need to get some stuff from Smash and that should be it.

I took a closer look at mine and see the same sort of bad gaps in the envelope section. On one of the front panels I got, there was a nasty smear at the bottom left. That one I've already packed up to have redone. I'm wondering if I should have the other redone too.

Okay, I'm now soldering R70 through R77. You said previously that these are part of a passive mixer. R70 and R71 do indeed connect to J70. But I can't seem to figure out where R72 through R77 connect to besides the SID outputs.

1. Your instructions state that R6 for cores 2, 3, and 4 are not needed. What does R6 on core 1 do? Am I hurting anything by soldering in those resistors anyway? 2. What part number do you recommend for the trimpots?

So... when can we hear some sound samples? (we need a drooling smiley)

I was wondering what those resistors were doing up there. What do you think about an offboard buffer/amplifier and leave the resistors at 10k? It'll be tiny enough to do point-to-point on some perfboard and would provide more protection for the SID. What part number would you recommend for the trimpots? The 1/4" ones I got from Jameco have a way-too-small footprint.

Wilba, what's the purpose of the J70 header? ???

Where would one find a desk such as this? I like the idea of having racks to the left and right like that. Edit: Added link to the original thread before this was split off. (stryd)

I'd use black screws to mount the fan.

That looks like it could be the basis of nifty front panel.

Hmm... having to push the contrast to maximum to get something decent out of it doesn't sound right.

I was wondering about that... Then today I found an envelope full of knobs in my mailbox. Sweet! I think I'll need some more eventually.

Is it just me or do those encoder holes look excessively large?

I was wondering until just now what the problem with the printing was about. Now I see. Yes, these are MUCH better.

What you have is a single-layer board. Parts go on the plain side (see the pictures for the correct alignment). About sockets, YES. Use sockets. The red line probably indicates where a jumper wire needs to be soldered. Again, check carefully.

Insulated copper plate? Don't you mean "mica sheet"?

I think it would be a Good Idea, particularly if you want to try to replicate the operation of a pipe organ.

If you fiddle with the picture, you can see the markings. They're not readable, but they're there.

I don't know why I haven't subscribed there yet. It looks like lemon64 is the place where this gizmo was first proposed and announced.

I've been using Flux-Off from Chem-spray for cleaning my boards. It's mediocre at best. It never seems to get all the flux off. Instead it gets spread all over the board and makes it sticky. It sounds like using denatured alcohol would be a better idea. Would it be a Good Idea to submerge the board in alcohol as long as I take care to use washable switches and pots?