Jump to content

Davo

Members
  • Posts

    450
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Everything posted by Davo

  1. To illuminate the knobs from below, I don't think you really need to wire up each knob with an LED. Consider instead two cold-cathode tubes and one LED beneath the top-right knob.
  2. Why are PLEDs being discontinued?
  3. I have a great affinity for fiddling with a synth's controls while playing it. Having a 3O toggle close at hand appeals to this. 8)
  4. Of course, our favourites are midibox-based ;D. What are some of your favourite non-midibox-based synthesizers? Mine are the Yamaha TX802, Paia Fatman, and Arrick Modular.
  5. Suppose I wanted to add a button to toggle 3O. That wouldn't be too hard -- I'd just need somewhere to put it, right? I'm thinking somewhere on the rear panel.
  6. I'm looking at Wilba's design and I noticed in his changes to the Step C panel that it's missing the "03" LED in the filter section. Since I haven't yet finished my MBSID v1, I was wondering what this LED indicates and what is made more difficult with it missing. Furthermore, why would this LED having its own button be desirable?
  7. I've noticed that when more than a few boards are ordered, the fabber will frequently throw in two or three free. When I ordered 100 P112 boards, I wound up with 107 or so.
  8. Mmmm... very moog-ish looking. Where did you get that keyboard? Davo
  9. I haven't the foggiest idea why the picture isn't showing up for you guys. Can you suggest an alternative place for me to upload the pic?
  10. I used an HP Laserjet 4000 of some sort at the university. I recently bought a Brother HL-5250DN, with which I haven't yet tried to make a board. My new printer might produce better results since it's not abused nearly as much as the uni printer. I've used both an iron and laminator, both gave bad results. I suppose I'll get some inkjet paper and try again sometime this week.
  11. Though you say that board sucks, it's way beyond mine. I actually have the same kind of laminator that Pulsar recommends, and I got broken traces with feathery edges. And that was when I could get the toner to transfer cleanly in the first place.
  12. See http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Homebrew_PCBs/ for detailed discussion of this stuff. I've tried it and got mediocre to bad results. Maybe it was my technique. The above-mentioned group also has info on using inkjet photo paper in a laser printer for toner-transfer. Some people get better results that way than with Pulsar's special paper.
  13. Anyone? How about $10 plus shipping?
  14. Some wanker is selling chips that are obviously not SIDs as SIDs >:( Here are some 74LS logic chips: http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=330022564368 And assorted C64 support chips: http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=330022564379 http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=330022564335 http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=330022564352 I've reported the guy and there are about 22 hours to go on these auctions.
  15. I'll probably end up building something like that Speakjet thing for my voice-synthesis fooling around. But, hey, I was at a thrift store and the S&S was there for only a few bucks.
  16. I just picked up a Speak and Spell and a Speak and Math. Has anyone interfaced Midibox hardware with these things? Davo
  17. Whenever...
  18. I have a 2U chassis I bought from Paia some time ago for my MBFM. My design has changed, so I have this chassis sitting around taking up space. It's yours for US$20 plus shipping (I'm in the US). Here's a pic. All the jacks you see are included. The reinforcing bars are my addition.
  19. The minimoog PCB thing interests me... Davo
  20. It's more of a matte appearance. If you apply it thin enough, it should be good for soft-touch knobs. There's only one way to find out. Davo
  21. I haven't used it myself. My brother used it to coat the forestock of an airsoft gun. He applied it a bit too heavily in one go, but the result was quite good nonetheless. Davo
  22. Dipping would give you a very thick coating. You'd be better off using the spray-on rubber coating. Do it in very light coats or else you'll get runs and blobs. Davo
  23. I like Geda. See http://geda.seul.org/. It's freeware, open source, and very capable.
  24. He must be talking about the smoke wafting from the rack. ;D Davo
×
×
  • Create New...