Altitude

no bankstick = 1 patch only and watch out for midi loops!! (do not thru on your interface)

thanks smash. Mine is really low (you can barely see that it is on with normal room lighting) so dont think i'm trying to push it too bright. Here is the thing though, i am using R3 boards. Is the trimpot functionality the same? For some reason, I thought that one pot was for normal LCD contrast and the other one was for the backwards ones. I tried 2 types of LCDs on two of my cores and neither pots affect the brightness

thats the same boat im in so i am wondering if its just a resistor limiting the brightness on the LCD PCB

That has no effect with this LCD

Tim, Is it possible to change the value of the "current limiting" resistor to get some more brightness out of 2X20's that you sell? If so, which one is it?

I have purchased LCDs from rainbow city and they work great (and are real nice to boot) I would get a couple and save on shipping at that price

Yea, thats what i ended up getting. They were Alps tact switches and they come in 4 different heights (up to 13.5mm) and have a 6mm square footprint. Thanks!

Ask and you shall receive.. http://no-ho.com/mbhp_core_v3.pdf http://no-ho.com/mbhp_sid_v3.pdf http://no-ho.com/mbhp_burner_v1.pdf

So far i have done only a coffee cup (turned out great) and a some test text on the back of an enclosure that was close in color to the panel I am working on. I unfortunately sprayed the panel with not clear but tsn so it didnt turn out that well. I will post my real results when i get the artwork done. search the forums, there are a couple of ppl which have posted their results

Bear in mind that they recommend you use a spirit based clear coat (Polyurathane is one) water based ones will leave the backing white. I'm really happy with the results and cant wait to start on the FP for my 4xSID.

it turns clear. u can see the cutlines under close inspection but I would do is just cover the whole panel with it and trim it off at the panels edge so there are non. They make this stuff in 24"x60' rolls and making a big one is pretty easy and managable.

I have been hearing about this stuff from several sources (including some ppl have used it here) so I decided to give it a whirl. Well IMHO, this stuff is the best thing since sliced bread. Simply print at highest possible resolution with inkjet or color laser, let it dry for 30 minutes, cut out, soak in water for 60 sec and you have a fairly thick, very handling friendly decal. I was easily able to transfer on a textured, powdercoated aluminum panel. You finish it with a solvent based clear coat which makes the white background clear. The results are pretty spectacular and the idea of ever getting anything screened again is totally out of the question. The drawbacks that I can see is that there is no white in most printers, but the white backing can remain opaque by using a water based clear coat and I guess you could do a combination of both is u mask out whatever you want to have white in it. at 16$ for a 10 pack of A size, this stuff is worth checking out

Oh yes. I would have gone completely insane debugging mine if it wasn't for my LCD Getting everything to work is like old testament God: lots of rules, no mercy ;D

Did you remember to add the 2200 uf/16V cap to the end of your power chain? I have the 4 sid running and it is super quiet so sounds like you did not add it. Also short the audio input (J4 on the sid)

Can anyone reccomend some good small diameter ones? Ideally 3mm or 1/8" posts with a short travel

it should be 1:1 (i do the PDF thing also) You do not want to scale it. I also find it useful to use Illustrator to strech parts out if you need a board bigger than what the freeware eagle allows

on the core you need to remove voltage regulator (5V will be coming from the PSU) do (and short the pins)

No. sounds like you have a midi problem (a loop maybe) you need to get the core working with or without the sid plugged into it.

run the outline ULP and everything will be much clearer (looks like your also missing pads and holes also on your print, select those in LAYERS)

thats a typo, should be 25V

Thats the wiring for the V3 board (i did the same thing) Look here: http://ucapps.de/mbhp_sid_old.html The SIDs should be wired like in the GIF. The 5V line should come directly off of the optimized PSU to J2. Dont forget to pull the 10 mHz off of the sid module and replace it with a jumper to the middle pin of J7 (middle pin of J7 is CLK from the core and can be connected to one of the legs where the 10 mHz clock was on the sid board, its pretty self explanintory once you look at it)

What board? the light blue fields are usually wired to a plane (like GND)

do you have an LCD connected? AFAIK u should be uploading the Main.hex file the Setup_6581 and setup_8580 are for the master/slaves

That should be it. the pic is requesting an upload. What bootloader are you running? To work with the current MIOS it will need to be 1.9. Are you getting a bunch of square blocks on your LCD? (that should be the normal thing for a bootloader only PIC) There are good instructions for updating the bootloader with the 1.9 MIOS. The basic sequence is update bootloader-> upload MIOS -> upload SID application

Well the keybed will need its own processer to deal with the midi so I would just wire the midi out fromt the controller directly to the core