Altitude

That wont be something I'll pursue, expecting people to drill holes into their euro cabinet isnt really a viable option.

This isnt a breakout module, it will have the DOUT, Line Driver, and AOUT functionality in one module. What JBdriver did is just had a module for the outputs, he still needed to put the boards somewhere for the auto, level shifter and so on

concept in the OP

http://www.usb-midi.com/download.html

I don't use the "GM5" drivers, I use the current "midijunction" ones from Ploytec, maybe that has something to do with it

hmm. worked fine the other day when I updated my seq

I put the LEDs in myself, you could get the ones with the LEDs but they are very expensive (there are 58 of them). They MUST be the 3F version, the 5F with the integrated LED are wired differently and wont work in this application. There are holes in the PCB for the LED leads but they are not connected to anything so you have to air wire them to the existing LED holes. I just used the legs of the leds and manhandled them into position. This is brutal and tedious work, you have been warned. It's also tricky to get the LEDs to sit right so make sure you make some sort of jig to bend the leads correctly otherwise the switches wont activate correctly. Finally, if you want bicolor LEDs, you need to cut a slot in the switch for the 3rd leg. That sounds worse than it is, I used a rotary tool with a cutting disc (you can see one in the pic above). I thought I took some pics of how I wired everything, ill post them here is I track them down.

yes, correct sorry. Been a while since I looked at this.. Make sure the 7812 is in V3

Sorry, I was wrong, you need to jumper the input of the 9V vreg to J72 pin 1.

..

It should be fine, did the same thing at one point.

The 5V is in backwards, The dot is the input. Look at my pic and note the orientation of pin one.

do you have the switcher in backwards? Post a pic of your board

Ok, All dressed up: Here is the PDF for the ppl with label makers like PTouch (12mm wide clear) http://misw.us/BLM_label_12mmX245mm.pdf

yeah, been pouring over that info. Is all that consistent with your BLM? Kept thinking the bottom row had alt functions for some reason.. What is the spacing between button centers? I'll draw up some labels for people with a label maker Thanks for your hard work! It's amazing this is finally a reality after so long.

Done! Question: Where is a good guide of the left and bottom row controls? I really need to make some labels until I'm comfortable with everything

Gotcha. Just make sure you check for shorts and polarity before you power up and you should be fine

no, ignore those labels. Those are for a C64 PSU that I dont use. I simply connect the + wire and - to those pins of a blank 7 pin DIN connector and use a +12VDC supply.

no, 6 and 7 in that diagram

looks good. The two power pins you will use are the two inside pins of the DIN connector, I cant tell you which those correspond to on the board, I just plug the DIN connector in and checked the pins with a meter, one goes to ground and the other is connected to the "9V-11V" pin. Make sure your jumpers are in, follow my pic as a guide

sorry, already gone

you can use a standard linear regulator, no need to spend 13 quid on a fancy switching one, it wont get very hot. 2A will be plenty, I measured ~1.1A on mine using 12V (700 mA for the SIDS!)

Yep, that's how I have done it. switching 9V and 5V Recoms and a 7812 for the +12V rail and a 15V DC supply. You could forgo the 7812 and just use a regulated 12VDC brick but that's sort of putting yourself out there and any PSU fault could result in damage to the SIDs. The 7812 would provide protection from overvoltage. Triple check all your voltages before installing any chips The wire in that pic was to power the backlights for the knobs on mine and is not necessary

The TI one is long gone, switched to the Recom R-78B5.0-1.5L

make sure you test them when you get them